insider

Yes, that's right. The numerical digits of the engine number will be at the end of the VIN number (unless the engine has been replaced).

Quote from Ford TIS - "A new 1,9 litre TDI diesel engine giving 81 kW/110 PS is installed in Galaxy from 11/97." This concurs with AdeeeH's post. Where did you get your information from? I assumed you had just got the years mixed up and meant 1997 when you'd said 1996?

No, you can only say that if it was built before 3/11/97 it must be a 90bhp. After 3/11/97 it could be either because they fitted both 90bhp and 110bhp engines after that date. Don't you mean Dec 1997 and Jan 1998 as the 110bhp wasn't introduced until Nov 1997? If big_kev's information is right then it must be 90bhp because it is a manual and the 110bhp wasn't put into a manual vehicle until Jan 1998.

Perhaps you could do your own trial? It won't hurt you to stop using the Redex for a while and see if it really did make a difference to your fuel economy. One question though - did the benefit in improved economy outweigh the extra you've been paying for the Redex?

If the "boost valve" is a bypass valve, dump valve, wastegate, etc. then it suggests that you have a 90bhp engine. The 110bhp engine was fitted with a variable nozzle turbocharger so there wouldn't be a bypass valve. The safest way to identify it though, is to find the engine number stamped on the block (AHU=90, AFN=110).

That will be the 12th and 13th digits because the 1st digit is always *, so from the info in my previous post it appears that your vehicle was built in November 1997 with the 110 being introduced on 3/11/97 which was a Monday. :( Andy Your VIN number gives a build date of 27/11/97 but doesn't specify whether it is 90 or 110bhp. If your sticker is missing then you'll need to find the engine number stamped on the block. It will start AHU...(90bhp) or AFN...(110bhp). The differences between the 90 and 110bhp engines were intake and exhaust system and a variable nozzle turbocharger on the 110bhp.

Until 2004 Ford was using SAE J1850 PWM protocol for OBD (pins 2 an 10 on the diagnostic connector). This cannot be read by VAG-COM - http://www.ross-tech.com/vag-com/tour/obd-2.html. From 2004 Ford started using ISO 15765 CAN protocol (pins 6 and 14) which VAG-COM can read as a generic OBD2. VAG-COM actually uses ISO 9141 K-line (pin 7). Therefore you won't be able to read your car with VAG-COM. Perhaps the VAG-COM lead needs to go back on ebay! You need to search for J1850 PWM compatible cables and software. This might work but I'd suggest contacting the seller first to confirm - http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ELM327-interface-USB...1QQcmdZViewItem

ST = Sport Technologies. Wouldn't it be interesting if they did an ST TDCi version of the new Mondeo / S-MAX / Galaxy using the Volvo 2.4 D5 engine (185bhp, 400Nm)? The engine should fit as they already use the petrol Volvo 2.5 T5 engine in the Mondeo and S-MAX!

I believe the new Galaxy and S-MAX diesel models have an electric booster heater which generates extra heat for the passenger compartment (but does not heat the coolant). This should be more reliable. There is also a fuel-fired booster heater available which does the same job as the one on the Mk2 Galaxy, i.e. heating the coolant. Time will tell whether it's more reliable though!

Efficiency does not equal reliability!

It's more likely to be the optical effect of the thin wires in the glass rather than from the heat generated. Usually, your eyes are focused in the distance so you don't see the wires but some people can notice optical effects. It would be more pronounced at night because, although the wires are coated to be as anti-reflective as possible, some light is inevitably reflected from them.

Yes, it does heat the car up quicker than if it wasn't there, but my answer was to the original question:

Neither of which are entirely correct. The answer is that the diesel engine is more efficient than the petrol engine so doesn't generate as much waste heat. Therefore, when the weather is cold not enough heat is generated to reach normal operating temperature and heat the cabin. It therefore needs a bit of help from another heat source.

I've driven Mondeos with cruise control and the light only comes on when it is active, i.e. set / resume. It goes off again when the brake or clutch pedal is pressed.

Looks like you're right - http://www.dadrl.org.uk/lawhiwaycode.html. ("Strangely, there is NO REQUIREMENT for continental left hand drive vehicles to have beam converters on UK roads.")

No, 9.6s from 30-60 (usually in 4th gear). 9.9s from 0-60 through the gears. Was my post confusing?

There are 2 1.8 diesel models (100PS and 125PS) and 2 2.0 diesels (130PS for the auto and 140PS for the manual). The petrol models are 2.0 (145PS) and 2.3 (161PS). If you want an automatic then it's either 2.3 petrol or 2.0 diesel. Top speed is 118mph and 116mph respectively. 0-60 acceleration is 11.1s and 11.8s respectively. However, neither of these is indicative of everyday driving. Where the diesel beats the petrol is the additional torque. This makes it much more responsive and easier to drive. The petrol will probably be quicker off the mark but once you're cruising the mid-range acceleration in the diesel will outperform the petrol. And obviously the fuel economy is much greater for the diesel. An interesting comparison is the manual 2.0 petrol and 2.0 diesels: Top speed 121mph and 120mph 0-60 acceleration 10.7s and 9.9s 30-60 acceleration 15.5s and 9.6s! (demonstrates the mid-range torque of the diesel)

It's registered as a 130.

Not sure of the minimum speed. This should be in the manual. It will keep to exactly the desired speed if conditions allow and will prevent you going faster than the set speed if going downhill. Basically no. It will brake a certain amount but if this is not enough to keep the distance required it will provide a collision warning so that you can brake harder.

I posted this procedure previously (follow steps A and B ) - http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.ph...st&p=112375. It should be quite straightforward to do. There's currently one on ebay - http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/FORD-MONDEO-GALAXY-2...1QQcmdZViewItem

Bit excessive just to adjust the handbrake - are you sure you're reading the right bit?

What's wrong with it? I thought the steering wheel was the same on Galaxy and Mondeo from that year?

I'd prefer the opinions of those that have more choice over the tyres they can put on their cars - http://www.tyretest.com/pkw_sommerreifen/w...1099/index.html Good luck! (only go out when it's dry!)

As this seems to be turning into more of an ABS / ESP debate, these might be of interest: ABS: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uq4DDMMoomU http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c2vHkx-8Bdk ESP: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1w7Dbhz65-M