insider

Might just be unburnt fuel being cleared out of the heater? As the previous poster suggests it might clear up in a few days.

Sorry, can't identify whether it's 90 or 110bhp from the VIN number. :angry2: It should also be stamped on the front of the engine block though - http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.ph...st&p=118702 1 = engine code (1Z = 90bhp, AHU = 90bhp, AFN = 110bhp) 2 = engine number

A 2000 Mk I will be either AHU (90bhp) or AFN (110bhp). Do you know which engine you have?

You say that you have fuel at the fuel rail and power at the injectors but are the injectors actually delivering this fuel to the intake manifold? Also, have you checked the induction system to ensure that sufficient air is getting to the engine - air filter, throttle body, intake manifold, associated ducting? Finally, the air/fuel mix might not be reaching the cylinders - are the valves opening correctly and in the correct sequence (engine timing)? Are the HT leads connected to the correct plugs? Did the engine used to start? If so, what has happened since?

All Mark I manual vehicles (Galaxy, Sharan and Alhambra) used the Ford VXT75 gearbox. The correct transmission oil is Ford spec. ESDM-2C186-A.

The fuses to the headlamps are 15A for each of the low beams (10A each for the high beams). The wiring is 1.5mm2 which has a maximum current rating of 18A in free air (less when cables are routed next to each other in wiring looms). Standard headlamp bulbs are usually 55W which translates to a current of around 5A (12v x 5A = 60W). Your bulbs would have to be 180W each for the current to reach 15A so as long as they are not much more than 55W you should be OK. There would be additional heat generated in the wiring but this should be far below the safety margin allowed by the fuse rating.

I think it can be done with VAG-COM by accessing the Instrument Cluster module 17 then "Adaptation - 10" under the "Advanced Functions". Channel number 4 should be the language setting: 6,1 = German 7,2 = English 8,3 = French 9,4 = Italian 10,5 = Spanish 11,6 = Portuguese I've never actually tried it though!

That wouldn't be my only reason for changing from a Renault to a Shalaxy but that mpg is horrendous for a diesel. Have you had it checked? Surely there must be a problem with it? You'd get better mpg from a 2.3 petrol Galaxy!

Saif is right (if you have the standard 3 year warranty, not the Premium which includes servicing, etc.). Extracted from the Ford Warranty terms and conditions: "Warranty conditions 5. Before any work can be carried out under your Ford Protect Plan, you must produce your Ford Service History Log duly stamped and showing scheduled servicing. Scheduled servicing can be carried out by any repairer during the 3 year Classic 60,000 mile Plan, but must always be carried out by an Authorised Ford Repairer on Premium Plans. Invoices and/or receipts in respect of any services may be requested and all parts replaced will become the property of the Company." Although, you might be interested in items 2, 5 and 7 (if it's worth the extra TermsAndConditionsUK.pdf

The light comes on when a sufficiently serious fault is logged in the ECU's memory. By disconnecting the battery you are clearing the ECU's memory of fault codes, so the light goes off. The fact that the light is coming on again shows that the fault is occurring again. If/when the light comes on again you need to have the fault codes read with a suitable diagnostic tool (e.g. VAG-COM) to determine what the problem is.

If it was new and under warranty when you complained about the cruise control then the Dealer was obliged to fix it. If they couldn't then it should have been taken to another Dealer to fix. Was it a diesel or 2.8 petrol? If so, the cruise control is done by the ECU. (VW engines) If it was a 2.3 petrol then there are no excuses for a Ford Dealer because it is a Ford engine / cruise control system.

It won't be the mechanicals of the gearbox itself - you've proved that by the same fault developing on a different gearbox. There is a separate ECU controlling the gearbox and a series of solenoid-operated valves that select the gears under the control of this ECU. It is more likely to be a problem with this control system. Can you get a diagnostic check of the gearbox ECU done to check for error codes (VAG-COM)? I would suggest taking the car to a specialist auto gearbox centre and letting them have a look. Avoid the dealers - they will keep changing (expensive) parts until they find the faulty one (if they ever do!).

The relay contains the timer so it's probably this that needs replacing.

Service intervals are not based just on mileage but also age, i.e. it is usually every 10,000 miles or 1 year (whichever is sooner). Your car is obviously a low mileage vehicle which means that you should have it serviced annually, not wait until the next mileage interval. When was the last time it had a major service? I believe the major service interval is every 40,000 miles or 4 years. Therefore, if it hasn't had a major service in the last 4 years then the dealer is right. It's also recommended that your brake fluid is changed every 2 years and that your coolant is changed every 4 years. However, don't let them tell you that your cam belt needs changing because you have timing chains on your engine!

Cruise control is not enabled / disabled in the ECU on the Ford engines. This is specific to the VW engines which are "drive-by-wire" so the speed can be directly controlled by the (VW) ECU. On the 2.3 engine the speed is set by an actuator on the throttle body. Search the forum - there are many posts relating to cruise control on this engine.

Are both cooling fans working? I think I read somewhere that one of the fans comes on at one temperature and the other when the temperature is higher. If so, perhaps the one that's supposed to come on at the lower temperature isn't working so it rises to a higher temperature before the working fan comes on?

Could be telling you that the coolant level is low? This wouldn't necessarily cause the engine temperature to rise above normal in the current cold weather (until you lose much more coolant of course!)

Go for it! If no-one complains then they'll continue to do it to others. No-one is perfect and sometimes need reminding of the right way to behave, police included.

It shouldn't, but if the person you are complaining about found out your details they might decide to retaliate in some way?

I don't understand the part about "steering goes more solid and brakes also". If cruise control is working there will be no effect on the steering, all it does is maintain the speed you set until you either switch it off or press the brake or clutch pedals. The usual way to set it is: 1) Ensure you are travelling at at least the minimum speed for cruise control to work (around 30mph?) 2) Move the cruise control switch to "ON". 3) Press and release the "SET / +" button to set to the current speed. 4) If all is working then the car will continue at the set speed. If not, then it is not working. (you may or may not see a light on the dash but it could still work without a light). 5) When travelling at the set speed, press and hold "SET / +" to increase to a higher set speed or press and hold "RESUME / -" to decrease to a lower set speed. 6) If the cruise control has been deactivated by pressing the brake or clutch pedal, pressing and releasing "RESUME / -" will activate it again at the previously set speed and the car will accelerate until it reaches that speed.

It's not OK. They should obey the rules of the road just like everyone else should. In fact, I would go as far as to say they should set an example to others. If you can remember the reg. no. of the car it might be worth putting in a complaint. If they've done this to other drivers and they've complained something may result from it. Unfortunately though, you might just bring more trouble on yourself.

If it is illegal then the major car manufacturers are not aware of it because most new cars now have this feature, not just Fords.

Christening is the naming bit. Baptism is supposed to come later when you're old enough to make the decision.

It actually has both! There is a belt driving one of the camshafts then a (plastic) timing chain connecting the two camshafts together. There is also a separate chain driving the oil pump from the crankshaft.

As Henry said "You can have any colour as long as it's ... BLACK!"