insider

Are they reinforced as well as XL? http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.ph...st&p=116427

I appreciate your opinion big_kev but it didn't really answer the question! However, these safety systems are and have been life savers for lesser drivers than yourself. Not everyone has the skill to pump the brake pedal when they start to go into a skid as ABS does automatically for you. Traction Control is especially useful in wet and icy conditions and I know someone who would have gone sideways into a tree after hitting a patch of black ice on a bend were it not for the ESP intervening to correct it (he now won't have a car without it!). I don't know many drivers, however experienced that would have been able to react quickly enough to avoid that! Anyway, back to the technical questions - can anyone shed any light on this?

As far as I know, all Mk2s come with ABS as standard. Traction Control was an option on some models and also ESP on others. Looking through the wiring diagrams, it appears that the same ABS module is used for Traction Control because the same wheel sensors are used. (There is an entirely different module for ESP with an added yaw sensor and steering position sensor). The only difference might be the hydraulic control unit that applies brake pressure to the wheels. If this is the same unit then surely it's something that can be programmed in the ABS module with VAG-COM? Could it be that easy to add Traction Control? Can anyone check whether a different ABS module or hydraulic control unit is used on vehicles with/without Traction Control?

Have you checked the gear selector cables? There are a number of posts on the forum relating to these (difficulty engaging gears). Unfortunately, if it's not this then it does sound like a more serious gearbox problem.

Definitely not VAG-COM as it's all Ford. I think Ford call their diagnostic system WDS.

I'd get it back to the Dealer (3 year warranty).

Under the dash panel on the driver's side. There should be a brown 12-pin (2 rows of 6) connector plugged into it.

So they give you plenty of warning then - minimum wear limit is 1.5mm!

Unfortunate Freudian slip but perhaps appropriate - your problem could even be the tip of the iceberg! :lol: But seriously, I think you mean Titanium? Anyway, the decision about whether to have a "standard" loom with everything in place or different looms for different level cars is made by the designers based on cost. If it is cheaper to have the same loom (higher volume = cheaper unit cost) than to handle the complexity of fitting different looms at the factory then that's the option they'll go with. Mis-builds happen (nobody's perfect) but I doubt that there would be any more errors on your car. After all, lightning doesn't strike twice (or does it?!!) :D

Sounds like your brake pad wear warning light. It means you need to change your brake pads because they've worn down to the minimum.

Unless it's a 2.0T I would think it would be seriously underpowered, especially if you're towing. The 2.3 would be better but don't you want another diesel?

Rallim, See http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.ph...st&p=116611

The ECU I have is 038 906 019 LR which is probably just the next revision level and I doubt if it would have changed significantly.

The procedure I have is a bit vague but you could try it if you can find someone with VAG-COM or get it yourself. Alternatively, I'm sure the Ford Dealers can access the engine module and enter the unlock code for you if they are willing to try. TO CHECK WHETHER OR NOT C/C IS ENABLED Select the engine control module 01 Read data function 08 Read group 06 (this is where it gets a bit vague) A batch of numbers will be displayed. The fourth group of numbers on the far right of the display will be either "0" or "255". "0" = cruise control enabled "255" = cruise control disabled TO ENABLE C/C Select the engine control module 01 Login 11 Enter the unlock code 11463 (then use the steps above to confirm that "255" changed to "0")

The wiring diagram I have is for the Galaxy (but should be the same for VW). Anyway, it shows the C/C connector directly connected to the ECU connector (pins 14 and 44-46), i.e. no intermediate "T10 connector located near the bulk head". So, it might be that there's a different wiring loom for cars without C/C if there are no wires to these pins in the ECU connector. Again, I haven't had a chance to check this yet but will try to do that and also check the ECU type I have.

If it's tried and failed to start a few times the ECU will lock it out. This can only be reset with VAG-COM. The ECU and the booster heater module itself control its operation. The only other factor is the ambient temperature switch - there should be 12v on the black wire at the booster heater connector when it's cold enough for the switch to activate (<10C).

There should be a simple 2-wire connector to the temp. switch near the wipers (one black and one blue/white wire). If you disconnect this and plug a switch into the connector instead you would have manual control over when the booster heater switches on and off. This has the advantage of being easily reversed if needed. Hope this helps. I wouldn't advise breaking into wiring behind the fusebox - there are enough electrical problems documented on this forum when the fuesbox is left alone!

See http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.ph...st&p=112370 I believe the pins are 14, 44, 45 and 46 as described. I haven't had a chance to try it yet but I have confirmed that the cruise control connector is not present in the steering column, so it will make connecting to the relevant ECU pins a lot harder. Good luck!

First, you need to check whether the radio / CD can be controlled remotely. If not, then you would need to replace it for one that can be if you want to use the controls on the steering column. If it can be remotely controlled then you just need to find out what signals need to go where and connect the appropriate wires. I don't suppose you have the installation manual that came with the radio/CD? What is the make and model?

Deja vu - http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.ph...st&p=113593 (It was better the first time! :16: )

I agree with adrianf - auto electricians are specialists, i.e. they do this day in day out. Main Dealers have to cover everything so their expertise is diluted (polite way of putting it!). You should also find them much cheaper than a Dealer.

TIS says it's near the wiper mechanism on the passenger side. But, if it's a 2006 model why don't you just take it to a Dealer to sort out? You should have a 3 year warranty.

You have to remember to make the distinction between the car manufacturers and the dealers. They are not the same. The dealers are independent businesses that run a franchise. They buy the cars from the manufacturers, then sell them on to the customer. However, as the primary interface between the customer and the manufacturer it is in the manufacturer's interests to ensure that the dealers are competent and provide a good service. Incidentally, Mazda are actually owned and controlled by Ford!

As mo4 says, phone any Ford Dealer with the registration and/or VIN number and they should be able to tell you. I think you have up to 5 years to have the work done FOC if it hasn't been so it's probably not too late yet.