zorgman

mk1 and mk2 the same he means. same for both marks

ill take it thats a petrol car your asking about, yes go for the iacv take it off and give it a good spray clean with carb cleaner. engine cuts with clutch as valve cant catch up with revs.

boot lock etc yes try gaiter wiring dont reconnect old wire as its brittle solder in new wire. dash bulbs dead easy to change just a sod to wangle the dash out bit of a knack and dont loose the 2 rubber bits on side. vagcom will work the everything but the engine as its a ford derived ecu and engine out of a ford scorpio i think. hmm im fancying a mk2 alhambra tdi 130hp in silver like mad for some reason just love the front end on them, when i get one all planned out dropped and full body kit on it with 19" alloys ive got waiting. (dream on me wife says the sharans lasted 4 years)

ah well a simple flat battery good job i told him to measure it. as for the leak on pipe its a case of visual inspection to find it.

ah well a simple flat battery good job i told him to measure it. as for the leak on pipe its a case of visual inspection to find it.

right then. your bat volts are too low so charge bat up or get a good battery jumped to it, (is there a buzzing noise from dash when cranking). correct on the door led its a status light nd should go off in 3 secs or something. have you tried a direct supply to cut off solenoid yet (take off the wire first so no backfeed to ecu and dont worry about fuse in the line etc just a chunk of wire. old days i used welding rod or whatever was to hand) try above see how it goes but dont remove cut off solenoid (cos) as fuel will go all over. no joy on above take the plunger and spring out put cos back in and try again. tis cold out there thats y im sitting in house

right then check batt volts and compare to solenoid shut off. shouldnt be far away from each other. volts there on switch on goes off in 5 secs then only comes back when cranking. when turning ignon check door led does it go off or flash disconnect the cut off feed and apply battery feed direct to it with the external fuel feed you made see if it starts iff so reconnect the fuel lines up and try cranking again to see if she starts

nope no pump inline just the main pump pulls the fuel thru. if no fuel sounds like an air leak but would have hought the fuel in pump would fire car up. do a check on heater plugs as looking at the pipe its hard to tell if theres fuel in it

just answered exactly the same type of question to this one. take iacv off get some carb cleaner not wd40 and give it a good clean thatll fettle it locate it as above

hi all. right my cars done 170k and since the day i got it 4yrs ago its had a very heavy clutch pedal, however is there any way i can tell if the dual mass flywheel has being changed to a solid sometime in is life.

well i change all belts as soon as i get car. the iacv idle air control valve sits behind the rocker box to left off ctr held by 2 alan keys and a plug into it, do a search on here or net about it

funny about buses as my sons a driver and he says theres loadsa the stuff swilling around off the mechanics when they fill the tanks up. wonderr iff it worth getting some to clean system out

idle air control valve needs cleaning no cam is on a chain, alt, water and power steering on belt

well i would give a full answer to this question but my mind reading is not working tonight so giz a clue what car your on about or is it a secret

it depends on the station provider. i use a pure dab unit and some stations show the info you want others dont

just came to me. ""bum bum bum esso blue"" sure that was it

citroens pump it into the fuel system cant think on how often but something to do with fuel lid, the idea is to raise the dpf upto high temp to burn off the carbon caused by short runs. funny thing is i saw a garage near mear advertising adblue, now i know what it is. thought it was a new paraffin.(what what was the name of that paraffin off years ago blue something it was called)

where u at in north east, if near sunderland i read codes free for members

thats the stuff, we just filled it up with diesel,

just the way they are you could put lowering springs on which would tighten up things. the shockers only control the damping but the springs control the amount of up/down. 35mm drops on ebay

citroen c5 use similar stuff in a small tank (cant think of name) but its stupidly expensive so the fix is .... fill it with diesel the system is non the wiser and car runs as normal tho dont think it stops the car starting up. this must be most stupid idea ive heard of

whats the error codes your getting when read off

aafs. do us a favor get rid of your interests as its taking up loadsa page space when your using a netbook. its not the maf causing it as everyone blames ut boost pressure over or under. heres a link to have a good read up on it but youneed a reading first. http://www.myturbodiesel.com/1000q/multi/limp-mode-TDI-fix.htm

brill many thanks for that just ordered one not for car tho its for a bio diesel unit im making. got the urge after reading up about it on here. many thanks again

any lock will open car even boot, just do a web search loads out there for info