MadBaz

Turning the gal into fully independent heating and integrating it into the existing electronics is quite complex. I've done it without a second battery but it required 5 relays, a time clock, a delay off relay, a 2ch pulse timer (for the alarm & blower), 3 switches and around 30 metres of cable. I can completely control the heating now, next project is to add rf/gsm control at a reasonable price.

Definitely a sensor in o/s/r pad and iirc o/s/f. I have had the rear pad cable break right on the connector easily fixed by soldering the connector off an old pad and with a bit of heat shrink tube.

Thanks for the input fellas, I understand how a conventional turbo works, my truck has just passed 600k kms with the original, the car however has just clocked 120k miles, I think I'll be giving the bb version a miss, although I was almost sold by the sales patter.

I'm in the market for a re-manufactured turbo, I've been in contact with a local company that say they can replace the journal bearing with a ball bearing cartridge, some machining is required, I just wondered if anyone has any experience good or bad or just opinions with such a conversion. I'm slightly suspect as I would've thought early turbos would've gone down the bb route before someone came up with the idea of using jb's.

As some of you may know I have installed a independent heating system in the car, it was until today just a timer to start the booster, however I have now wired up the ATC to it and it works :-))). The bad news is my neighbours may get annoyed with me as I get up at stupid o clock and they may not like the alarm going off when the front blower starts to blow warm air. So my question, does anyone know what inputs/connections have to be made to disable the interoir alarm sensors whilst the front blowers are on? I'd rather not have the alarm disabled (double press remote) if at all possible.

Load of tosh, recon VVT can be sourced, but they need to be balanced both on the shaft (vibration) and airflow. Who advised you that the turbo was on it's way out and what are the symptoms, if any?

No need to tap into the wires at the door, open fuse box and the connector at the TOP RIGHT (next to the fuse puller) should have the open/close wires from the drivers door. Pin 25 (2nd up on right, grey wire) should be open and pin 17 (4th down on right, green/red wire) close. The indicator wire I wouldn't connect directly to earth as it seems the unit has an earth already. The gal as far as I know doesn't have a single circuit to operate both sides of indicators/side-lights, no need for the boot wire unless you just want to un/lock the boot, you still have to manually operate it past the 2nd position anyhow (not recommended, as it's far too easy to shut it with keys inside). Apologies.

I've had simi;ar issues with no apparent reason, so I switched to CREE bulbs (very bright LED) not cheap at £15 a pair but no probs since.

Don't take this the wrong way but for anyone else that's wondering, 288/300mm refers to the diameter, easy to measure with a tape measure. <runs and hides>

Don't the newer cars use glow plugs in the coolant circuit to warm up quickly?

This has got to be a record, the first booster heater post of the year and in early sept. BTW mine was very smoky Monday morning (4 am). Mine's on a home made timer so at least the smoke cleared before I'd finished walking the dog, it did look scary though ;) .

...oops never occurred to me, apologies if any offence taken.

Whatever you do DON'T 'light' one on the bus.

They occasionally come up on fleabay for a reasonable amount (iirc mine was £20) but the stealers want a fortune, £60 at Vw and £70 at Frauds. VW part number 038 145 771 AA.

It's for sticking the seatbelt anchor clips in, if they're in the way when sticking Aunty Mabel's wardrobe in the boot.