zorgman

mine started weeping in 2008 put a bottle of kseal in ands its still ok. methinks that the rad has to pull downover and pull out the bottom complete with intercooler

you have got a vw sharan its badged up to ford or seat all the same car made in same factory made by vw, mk1 and mk2 the mk3 is pure ford

2.5 bar units, 5v, if you get stuck me thinks ive got a spare one here as i put a 3 bar into mine. you could put a 4.5v zenner across output and gnd to stop it spiking

where you got job done ask them to do a pressure test on system to track it down, did you take car there due to leak if so go back as its not fixed or did you tell them it was the head gasket. theres a sealer called k???? k seal cant think but its mint gear put it in mine for a rad leak 2yrs ago and no leaks cost

vw made the car, had mine 4.6yrs few odds and ends and wont part with it best motor ive ever had, as your using a garage thats why your dissing car, 2 routes here sell it or get a haynes manual and with that and us on here we can go thru car bit by bit methodical to sort it. the aux heter for example only works about 10c or lower the sensor is just behind battery clipped to the solid arm on wiper assembly, your temp sender has failed only

thanks for info. when im upto it going to av a look at spring and see if i can get som oil down there to dot know if oil wil get at bearing seem to think its below rubber bush and is a 2rs sealed unit

mate done my n/s top bearing and rubber donut but now the springs twanging on lock to lock as tho bearing seized is it possible to A reassemble it incorrectly B lubricate the bearing by taking off top nut and metal dish to put oil in will this work any ideas as its only 5 mths old wouldnt have thought its demise would be so quick, open to ideas as thats about as far as i can to rectify fault with the oil due to ill health

be prepared to get cuts on hands the metalwork is very sharp in there, if i think on the big plug uses a slide action on it and module on top is bulb fail unit, just take your time an do it methodical. youll need a a torch and a mirror to see where the 2 torx bolts are the keep the ecu onto its bracket these are at front where plug is, forgot now how i wangled out.

sorry bout my rant and rave at least ive gave some info on bulbs and hid. them bulbs are cheap so a good find,

mk1 tdi only clocks that have miles remaining mines a 99 and hasnt got it

Phillips or osram daylighter bulbs dont go for the crappy stuff from hong kong or all them bulbs with wild claims as there crap, i tried a set in my car as a direct comparison in a country lane without moving car tc. supposed to be 100w with 5000k light color, total rubbish and not a patch on Phillips. also tried a set of hid duals, dont even bother a no pattern b just a glare of light c blinds everybody on road and 100% illegal due to below no mk1 has projectors mk2s is it an option have a look at the lens, can you see the bulb if yes you not got projector cant see the bulb looks like a big magnifying glass then you meet #1 as below what abou 2 and 3 d mot fail due to A and all hid lights must meet 3 criteria. 1 must be a projector lens system 2 must be auto height adjust 3 must have means of cleaning ie water jet or wiper sorry to rant about this but my 3/4 hates are dodgy lights that blind you twats in wrong lane that try to beat you to correct lane due to impatience and make out your in the wrong idiots that use private plates to say somthing you know the ones stick in extra black or yellow bolts on numbers/letters or use a bit of tape bmw/merc/range rover/landy/4x4/insignia drivers that no matter what have got to get in front of you, but not this chap when im out on my sons race prepped vtr1000 firestorm i totally obliterate them in there stupid multi thousand pound cars all the way from standstill to 167.9mph gps checked on open road a??m. want a race for v5 log books then bring it on road or track snetterton croft etc. grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr feel much better now had a bad day getting my chemo for multiple myloma took 6 goes to get a cannular in. soorry if ive hijacked thread a bit but anybody wanting a pair of h4 xenon or h7's and near me can av em free

itll be all claggy and gooey, make sure you use the proper pipe its the same cotton covered stuff thats used for leak back on the injectors. if you've not got any left you only need approx 2" which you can take off another vac pipe that has a bit spare

just checked your asking the same question getting same answers as before, before going any further change the internal pipe inside the ecu as thats where your problem will be

and whats lurking about near the filter.???????????? thats right vacuum pipes, where does one of the pipes go ?????????????? to the map sensor. get the codes erased first before reading as old codes are there then wait till you get limp mode then get codes read off so its accurate reading.

its easy all this battery stuff, go to a car discount shop and see the nice man and say, " hi ive got (insert make and type of car here) i need a new battery" man gets book out tells you what you need and price. sorry to be so funny about it but this is a fact as loadsa ask same question and its so basic what to do

not on the pulley on the pump housing, yes same as mine teeth missing so its down to using a lever to move pump then nip it all up

yes tensioner on the pump slacken the 3 bolts and if yo look theres a bolt on a cam type thing which does the adjustment. mine needs doing but itll wait. screeches on full lock and judders on low speed

go to a car accesory shop not halfords and take your old pipe and they'll make you up new lines with correct ends on, its not copper pipe but kunifer pipe, you also need a pipe flaring tool to do your own so its far cheaper to get them to make them

mines same have to give it a tap and its away again, methinks theres a dodgy joint on circuit board, when i can be bothered ill have a look see what i find

forgot to mention its a late 99 sharan with later fusebox. also mine and mates n/s indicator lenses dont fit proper is yours like that os /s fits fine seems like a big gap that wont adjust out tween wing and lense

i concur iacv is on the ford engine just noticed its a vw. far far better than the ford 8v lump

hi all thought id upgrade my front ind bulbs in my sharan as its got clear lenses, so rather than use orange bulbs that burn the orange tint off i bought some 32led ones off ebay. cost

many thanks for that info. add this to tips or faqs mods

hi johnson. well due to your thread ive made my own unit, waiting for a pid, ssr and thermocouple to land. fired it up other day and bang brand new imm heater blew its brains out so waiting for gear to land and try again. got a local source for meth and hydroxide. using a 30l chiken feeder in hdpe to satrt off as im only getting wvo in 20-25l batches per week so its big enough. bit confused about the washing bit as to the amount of water but ill fathom it out. using a auto waste pump as a reticulate pump saves using a mixer.got a nice air pump with ceramic air stone so its all ready to go heres the unit im using http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/290609616459#ht_2157wt_776

depends on the engine size, were not mind readers