SilverBeast

:ph34r: Ah yes but the downloads are working there too!

Here

Assuming its MKII TDI the routing for the belt is here if you need to double check it. If you put MK, engine and model in your signature it makes it easier for people to help you.

Fixing crushed sills ?

The site has a problem at the moment, I think everyone is getting this. I believe it has been reported by to the Moderators

It'll cost more than that to fill it up twice!

Without the undertray water and road dirt will get into the electrics at the bottom of the engine causing premature corrosion/failure of the wiring and onto the auxilliary drive belts causing them to slip. This can cause the power steering assistance to be lost/reduced and the air-conditioning compressor (assuming the air-con is working!) to not turn. This all worst case. I would seriously look at getting one ebay link as it will minimise future issues. If it has been off some time damage may have already been done. Not what you want to hear I know. Main thing for now try and avoid driving through puddles or standing water (just the time of year for that!) particularly at speed. My major concern would be if you were to charge through a puddle or standing water and experience a sudden reduction in power steering assistance (I don't know how bad the effect is) then you may struggle with positioning the vehicle on the road. If you have just bought the vehicle from a dealer/garage I would take it back and ask them to fit one.

I'm sure you know but just remember to disconnect the battery first just in case it decides to reconnect while being removed and sets of airbag. I shouldn't think a MK3 will fit as I believe Ford made those and the MK1/2 are made by VW

I was the on 3rd November. I tried to re upload some pdfs for a member that are giving a server error (not authorised?) when trying to download them. In the end he PM'd me his email address and I emailed them to him.

I can also confirm this cable WILL work with the diesel Galaxies as it is the one I have and use on mine. It does state it is compatible with the Seat Alhambra, which is just about the same mechanics and the same diesel engine. It doesn't however state it is also compatible with the VW Sharan (which it also is). Remember VW built Galaxy, Alhambra and Sharan's until the MKIII Galaxy came out and it is a VW engine in your car. That is why you can often get parts cheaper from a VW dealer.

Ah yes, but how would you have got all the info from the Forum?

That's one for the moderators to look at, I can't download them either and I posted them. I get a Server Error 401 - Unauthorized: Access is denied due to invalid credentials. You do not have permission to view this directory or page using the credentials that you supplied.

Have a look here. The pictures are from when I did mine. I used strong cotton to hold them in place, but fishing line would probably be better (stronger). If you read the guide on this site (if I recall correctly) you can drill a couple of holes in the plastic end pieced and use a pin or nail to hold the brushes back against the springs until you get the cap back on.

If it starts with the spare, I suggest you get him to open the other key in front of you and check the PATS chip is there. If it isn't get him to get a working key sorted out (at his cost) for you as it is very expensive going through Ford. There are other ways of doing it but it would be easier for you if he sorts it.

No not that, the electronics in your car are just about all VW. This lead from ebay will plug into your laptop or PC and costs

Manual pages from my 2005TDI for Alarm and Immobiliser programming are here

You will feel the "run on" pump running as soon as you switch the ignition on ( you don't need to start the engine) and it will stay on till you switch it off. On mine it doesn't run on after this which appears to be normal operation for 130's.

Not particularly familiar with how it's mounted, but could the motor screws be loose and allowing the motor to move?

Glad your sorted. Well done.

Best to buy a VAG-COM lead from ebay (<£10) and download the free version of VCDS-LITE, read back the error codes from the engine management system. If you come back with any codes there will be someone who can help. It's worth getting the lead anyway as it will more than pay for itself if you intend to keep the car for some time.

You do know there's a 130 in between too?

You may have read that chromedome did this. I can see why my avatar would add to the confusion! Someone at work drilled them out with a pillar drill and did the helicoiling as he was quiet and I was rushed off my feet.

Forgot to say, switch may have stuck/rusted up causing them to be permanently disabled. Second thoughts as you have 12V when bulb isn't fitted then I would say it is definitely a not quite broken wire as I had similar on a trailer socket wiring problem. Basically the wiring has a higher resistance than the bulb so the energy gets disapated in the break instead of the bulb.

I have a late (2005) MKII with a D5Z-F which I have stripped and rebuilt. Just about all the mounting and plastic cover fixing screws had to be drilled out. We successfully helicoiled all the holes and I replaced all the screws/washers with Stainless Steel from ebay. Just need to get it working now!!!