SilverBeast

It would be worth getting a VAG_COM/VCDS-LITE lead from ebay (<

Someone may have taken the temperature sensor out and bridged the connections to force it to run at some point. Or fitted a switch/link somewhere else in the system for the same purpose. (i) Have you checked a sensor is fitted, not a link? (ii) If fitted try disconnecting it to see if booster heater stops. If coolant is not being circulated I would expect it to shut down anyway eventually as the internal senors in the auxiliary heater that record inlet and outlet temperature will still record a rise and I would have thought it would shut down with an overheat error anyway.

Try Fuse 12 in the fuse box by the drivers right knee

Definitely likely to be auxiliary pump brushes. To check if it's running do as I said above. You don't have to start the car just turn ignition so all dash lights come on. Turning off heating stops heater fans running (turn the front ones right down till it says off). You should be able to hear pump and/or feel it vibrating with bonnet open. I wouldn't keep running auxiliary heater (in fact I would pull the fuse to stop it working until you fix the pump) as in my opinion running it with the pump not working could be what damages the control PCB's on D5Z-F's and that is expensive to replace.

(i) Did you check that the pump is running as I described in post #11 above? (ii) What mileage has the car done? The auxilliary coolant pumps seem to wear out the brushes at around 80k miles as they are running all the time the ignition is on. (iii) Which booster heater do you have? (it's on the label stuck on the side of the heater or in the vag-com controller code when you connect) - I'm assuming a D5Z-F like my 05 TDI 130, though it does depend on model year. Run it for a bit and see what/if any codes recur. Run the car from cold while parked and use the VAG-COM ability to monitor the outputs to see what temperatures the chambers get to.- it will take quite a while for the input/output coolant temperatures to rise (20-30minutes). If the auxilliary coolant pump ISN'T running.then it will rise a lot faster.

This will do the job.

You don't get codes from the pump as there is no detection whether it's working. Look at the thread above to identify where it is. Turn on ignition, but don't start. Turn heater fans and air con off. You should hear it running. If you can get your hand to it you will also feel it vibrating. If you have a 90 or 115 I believe it also runs on for a couple of minutes after you turn off the ignition. It doesn't on my 130 and probably doesn't on the 150.

If it's firing up it's not the temperature sensor. If it's coming up over temp, it's most likely that the run on pump isn't working. The run on pump runs all the time the ignition is on and for 2 minutes after the engine is turned off on models other than 130 and 150. This circulates water round the rear heating circuit. When it doesn't run the water heated by the booster heater doesn't leave the heater and the heater overheats (and you get your overheat code) and shut's itself down. The brushes on the motor tend to wear out around 80k miles but can be replaced. See this thread here for instructions.

Glad you managed to sort it

Hi holtie and welcome to the Forum. It is still likely to be the wiring in the tailgate gaitor. The insulation may have come off the wires, rather than just a break in the wire. This will still pass a continuity test but not work. If you have a permanent 12V on the Black and Yellow with the ignition on then try connecting a ground wire from a ground on the chassis directly to the Brown wire on the motor in the hatch. I believe this should cause the wiper to return to the park position as it looks like the Black/Yellow (which shows as conncting to a Black/White wire on the motor on my diagram) is the feed for the parking circuit. If this works it would indicate a failure in the Brown (ground) wire to the motor. If you disconnect motor and connect 12V between brown and Black/Yellow (or whichever it wire it connects to on the motor) it should park. This assumes the wiper arm has not been off and moved. If not you may have a motor problem. I assume you have checked the fuses as detailed above.

Me neither. :lol:

This is an 07. I guess it's a MK3 not a MK1 or MK2. seatkids diagnosis and instructions still apply, but there may not be the engine fuse box. It is obviously an electrical failure. I believe your power steering pump is electric on the MK3, which explains why you lost power steering ceased operating. Glad you and car are unharmed. I suggest that if the battery warning light comes on again you stop immediately or proceed slowly with extreme caution as you now know what to expect.

Nice to meet you. Here's a link to a VCDS-LITE lead. Make sure you use the drivers that come with it when you install it on your laptop. Download the VCDS-LITE software from the first link in the listing, that's the one we were using today.

You might not hear the run on pump over the heating fan. It's easier to "feel" it running when the engine is on. As you have an Auto, I believe you have a 115 engine. When you turn the engine off you should here it running for a couple of minutes afterwards. It will start to run as soon as you switch on the ignition just make sure you turn off the heater fans. The general trend appears to be that the brushes on the pump wear out around 80k miles. The dosing pump makes a ticking/metallic clicking sound in operation. This is normal. There is an instruction from Ford to provide more audio isolation if the customer complains of audible ticking in the passenger compartment.

Details here, though I think I've seen one with pictures somewhere

Rather than take it apart I'd just make sure it runs for at least 30 minutes so it can burn out any crap deposits.

I'm in Otley if that's any use. My son's at York University and I may be collecting him in the next week or so. Depends if he needs a lift or is coming back on the train

Might be better to keep the problems associated with engine change in the same thread so others can see the joys (pitfalls?) in future.

Were they working after you changed your engine, and have now gone wrong? If I understand correctly it you also changed your ecu. I would guess that speedo and fuel guage MAY take signals from the ecu

The electric windows are "trained" by getting them to the closed position and then holding the switch in the close position for a couple of seconds. You then do the open in the same way I think. You could try doing something similar with your sunroof. If that doesn't work I would be tempted to disconnect the battery (or motor if you don't know the radio code) with the roof fully closed.

Did you use any solvent to dissolve the coating, or did you just pick it off? Mine was going between Glow Plug open circuit and Glow Plug short circuit after heater had warmed up, Glow plug seemed OK when powered from a battery, but didn't power it for too long as I think it's an 8V glow plug on the D5Z-F

I just got a heater from ebay for

I've fitted a J&R one to mine (130BHP) about 10k ago. Seems OK at the moment. I have seen one report that they had one which wouldn't fit, which they replaced straight away. They had a simliar problem with the replacement, though that one did fit. I have another sat in the garage ready for when I eventually do the intermediate shaft. Changed mine as a CV boot was split and it was a lot simpler to change the whole shaft, particularly at that price.

As seatkid states sensor is clipped to the wiper mechanism just in front of the pollen filter on a plastic clip that the wiper wiring is also attached to, It will be worth getting a VCDS-LITE cable from ebay such as this both to diagnose your heater and for the rest of the car too.

Seconded. Try disconnecting them one at a time and seeing if you can start the car after each. This may highlight which one is the problem, though drivers is most likely. Don't forget to check the wiring in the hatch gaitor (drivers side) too.