SilverBeast

Still most likely to be in the tailgate gaiter as chrispb123456 has suggested. One other possibility is if you have a towbar fitted. Some of the tow sockets have a switch inside that disables the reverse parking sensors and the reversing lights if you are towing, though this would probably only be on a factory fitted towbar, as extra wiring and programming of the dash is required.

Did it start at the same time as your gear selection issues?

Have you checked the wires to the tailgate too? In the rubber tube at the top on the left hand side. Did you check all the wires (some break inside the insulation) or just those that had visible breaks.

Yes it is. When you do that it can monitor live readings from all the engine sensors too. Noise from behind coolant bottle sounds like run-on pump is OK assuming you made sure the fans for the climate control are not running (fan speed on the control panel wound down until it said off). It won't try and run the booster heater until the engine is running, the engine temperature is less than 75C (heater enabled = ON) and Ext Temp Switch is ON (You can short together the two connections for this after unplugging the sensor which is fastened to the back of the wiper mechanism in front of the pollen filter). If you had no faults logged when you first scanned it and have heard the "jet engine noise" then I would hazard a guess that it is OK.

Sorry don't know about swapping the bits. Usually near side would be better as you are supposed to park at the side of the road in the direction of travel. This would mean you would be unloading children onto the pavement instead of into the road!

Check your run on pump first. If it's not running it the heater will overheat and shut down anyway. Bushes seem to wear out around 80k miles. Replacement instructions here. Pictures are from when I did mine. Not sure about which fuses, Try Fuses 3 (5A), 12(25A) and maybe 19(5A)

Just a thought have you checked all the fuses are intact? Also some people have had issues with the power wires to the heater failing and not delivering enough voltage. Page 5 of the linked document tells you what you should see in VCDS. though it refers to your mates heater not yours.

Just stripped and rebuilt mine. It uses a glow pin (ceramic glow plug) mine was reporting glow plug for heater open circuit or glow plug for heater short circuit The controller PCB sits above the heater - right where it will get hot. Most of the screws on mine sheard on dis-assembly and had to be drilled out. I had to fit helicoils to most of the holes and replaced screws with stainless steel. This included cover screws and mounting screws. Here's the burner chamber taken apart Glow Pin is at the front and has the fat (sorry horizontally challenged) wires - applied 12V from spare battery and it glowed fine Here is is back together apart from the two plastic covers on the top. The controller PCB has the input connections going in to it. Unfortunately the controller seems to be prone to failure. I don't believe mine is working, though I haven't yet checked that the dosing pump is delivering diesel.

Your is the newer one (like mine) fitted to the last MKII galaxy's. plug is a different pin out. Internal layout is different. What's wrong with yours (apart from the exhaust). Have you read any error codes with VCDS?

I believe they did a redesign later on in the MKII production (look at the picture above). I've not been able to remove the fibreglass panel above the engine without removing the wipers because the trim around these sits over the top of it. Like I said above I believe the earlier trim was in three pieces and I guess that the middle section could be removed without removing the wipers.

I think you mean the trim that goes under the wiper arms. Mine is a single piece that goes under both. Earlier versions had a centre section and two side sections I believe. For mine you remove both wiper arms and lift the two sides then slide the down parrallel to the screen. Heres a picture of it off. The long strip in the centre and parrallel to the top edge in the shot is a U shape that hooks round the window glass. The two smaller strips at either side are where two similar strips fasten on. These stay on the glass on mine, but the screen was replaced before I got it and they may be supposed to come off the glass. Once that's off there are three bolts to remove the fibre glass panel above the engine. Once these are removed the panel slides forward out of some clips at the back and over a rubber seal (bit like a door seal). It then needs manouvering to get it out. This is easier if you have removed the air filter cover and disconnected the hose at the back of it.

This might help.

The lead chrispb123456 linked to is the one I use. Make sure you install the drivers that come with it. The software is free to download from manufactureres site from the link in the ebay listing. I use it on a Pentium III laptop with Windows '98 (though I have used it with Windows XP too on a Pentium iV). For £6.95 it'll more than pay for itself if you intend to keep the car for some time.

It does indicate a problem. Usually low pressure I believe, though it has also been known to be because of a clogged fan inside the panel that blows air over a temperature sensor to measure cabin temperature. You should be able to use VAG-COM/VCDS-LITE to scan for any reported errors.

It's a D5Z-F. Here's a picture as I was putting it back together, with both the plastic top covers off and just about all the threads replaced by helicoils after drilling out the sheared bolts for both the cover fixing and the bracket mounting. I replaced them all with Stainless Steel torx screws.

Yeah it has. Glow plug was working fine from a car battery, but I think it's an 8v plug! It looks like these are prone to controller failures instead at a cost of several hundred pounds instead! I reset it with VCDS this morning so will be keeping an eye on it to see what happens.

Mine's the later 5kW with a ceramic glow pin instead of the glow plug that has the controller PCB on top of the unit where it can get nice and toasty. It was intermittent so I stripped and cleaned it while the weather was good and it hasn't fired up since. VCDS-LITE was alternating between glue plug open circuit and short circuit. Now the weather's got cold I will reset it and see what happens. I don't think it's a simple swap between you'd and mine as I believe the DC connector is different.

Yes yours is probably the one that is working. VAG-COM will show it. It is 18-Aux. Heat on the common page. It only comes on if the outside air temperature is below 10C and your engine coolant temperature is below 70 or 75C. The sensor for outside temperature is clipped to the wiper mechanism, you will see it when you remove that to fix your drivers wiper not sweeping fully.

The MKII has a different design to the MKI. It uses a nylon work and gear. If wound up too tightly, which I personally don't think is very tightly at all, the gear can split and slip. Mine did the same thing the first time I wound mine up. The MKI's is shell but prone to corrosion. I got one from a MKI from eBay, cleaned it up and Hammerited it and applied plenty of grease. The mounting holes points are the same for both and the winding mechanism lines up with the same aperture in the boot so it's a straight swap.

If you don't like the noise you can take it off and send it to me as mine doesn't work.

That's seized spindles. You need to remove the mechanism and free them up. Removing the mechanism is easier than freeing the spindles. There is a "How To" in the Frequently Asked Questions section as it is a common occurence. Ford will want to sell you a new mechanism fro several hundred pounds.

Glad to have helped. These are problems, I've picked all these things up from this and other Forums. I tend to read them every day just to keep up with things and know what to expect next!

This is for a MKII. WARNING:- If you haven't done so already Search for PATS chip and familiarise yourself with the bits inside the key. There is a tiny plastic block in each key (the Passive Anti Theft System [immobiliser to you and me] chip). If you take the key apart do it on a clear table over white paper (A3 preferred) so you can see all the bits. Fundamentally the key has 3 parts:- (i) Blade section - that you stick into the ignition/door and turn! (ii) PATS chip tiny plastic block - should be clipped int blade section but often falls out when batteries are changed or keys fall aprt! (iii) Alarm/Central locking two button fob that clips onto blade section and holds the PATS chip in place. First check the Frequencies on the side of the fob's match, if they don't then that is why they are not working, and they never both will. You have to program keys as a set for the Alarm/Central Locking. Starting the process will clear all the keys and they should then all be "added" back. Instructions are ion the site somewhere, and in your handbook if you have one. Worst case you can't add them back and have to use the key in the door to open. This will turn alarm off and operate the central locking. You can still use the car. You will have to do this either to add the "new" fob or add your original. Immobiliser is a separate operation that uses the PATS chip above. If you have two working keys you can add a more, Again instructions are in the handbook. You shouldn't need to do this. Suggest you:- (i) Find/go through the programming procedure for the remote and try and add your original remotes (these do fail over time apparently, though both of my originals are still working). Make sure you know which one worked originally so you can tell if you managed to add the "faulty" one then messed up process, or just re-added the original "working" key. It is a bit fiddly but worth doing. (ii) If one doesn't bring working key back to life. Try again but adding "new" fob, before you take the key apart - saves fiddling if it's not going to work - It doesn't actually have to be on the key to do this. If it works the swap the blades and PATS chips (see above warning) the check keys still start their respective cars.

You can't do an Auto-Scan properly on the free version you have to do the modules individually. Parking sensors are on the "Electronics 1" tab. Button 76-Park Assist. Not run it for a bit but from memory this will scan for faults and display them. If none there is a button at the bottom left that lets you monitor the 3 sets of outputs. Press that. In the window that opens Set the top one to 1, next to 2 and I believe that reads back the distances from each of the front and rear sensors.

I have the same vehicle as you with a fixed towbar. The bumper doesn't seem particularly floppy and the parking sensors still work. I think this depends on how far the towball sticks out as if the grease protector on mine is tilted slightly it does occasionally seem to pick it up. I suggest you send a Personal Message to gregers about the towbar (click on his username above then use the "Send Message" button). This will mean you can contact him about details, price and contact details without having a "public" conversation.