SilverBeast

I think this means he has gregers! :)

It won't work with the engine off as I believe it also gets a signal that the engine is running. The auxiliary pump will run all the time the ignition is on and for a few minutes after switching off on models other than the 130 and 150 tdi's

Sounds more like wiring (or possibly a fuse) to me. Probably a permanent live (or the ground) to the control module itself, as that is where I would expect the memory to be situated, rather than in the gearbox itself. This from an electronics background rather than from knowledge of automatic gearboxes.

Details here are mainly about transfer shaft but the link to manufacturer is faulty company is motomax. They just seem to be selling the transfer shaft at the moment or the inner cv joints separately from the driveshaft. I suggest you email them and see if they will do the whole driveshaft. I had a vibration at about 20 which went when I replaced my driveshaft with one from J&R on ebay. Vibration is coming back now after approx 20k miles. Not sure I would recommend them because of this. I have another new one sat in my garage as I thought the CV on the other side was split, due to the amount of grease in the hub, but it must have been left over from a previous repair. For the price I thought it was worth trying them as I believe it's simpler to replace the driveshaft than regrease or replace the CV joint(s). A lot quicker and cleaner too. When you replace it I suggest you do the lower balljoint at the same time.

It'll start the car, as the PATS chip is passive and sealed. Remote will probably be OK as it's quite well sealed. May be worth covering in dry rice and sticking it on a boiler/radiator to dry out. I've done this with numerous mobile phones and cameras (always take the battery out as soon as you can after immersion) and they have all been OK so far. It's the PATS chip that's important as you need two working remote keys to program keys to the immobiliser yourself. You can reprogram the central locking/alarm yourself as you only need a key to turn in the drivers door lock to program that to the car.

Borrowed the works 2.8 once. It was still accelerating at an indicated 130, but that was enough for me. It did use a lot of petrol though.

Have you tried a strong magnet tied to a piece of string? (Not to replace your key, but to try and recover it from down the grate :) )

Common problem. Probably one of the selector cables on the top of the gearbox has come off, or mechanism in same place is full of crud. Search the FAQ's on this Forum or look at this thread. I'm sure there is a thread on one of these two sites that has pictures.

Have you got a voltmeter? If so:- (i) Check the battery voltage with ignition off. (ii) Check the battery voltage with ignition fully on (normal running position before point at which engine turns over) (iii) Check the battery voltage while you have someone turn the key to the cranking position. Report back

Did you remove the inner wheel arch liner? The scuttle drains between this and the bodywork in front of the door. Over time it can fill up with dirt and this can hold moisture against the inner wing and cause it to corrode.

So it is! I have a picture but the site isn't letting me upload it. If you send me a personal message with an email address I can email it to you.

Have a look here

Couldn't say for sure, but if it has a battery junction box too and the alternator fuse is 150A there is no reason that it wouldn't do. The cable to the Passenger Compartment fuse box is likely to route the same as in the diesel and take a similar amount of current. As the crimps on these fail too I'd say it is more than likely that they will have. It does sound like it has been repaired. Obviously I have a diesel so the cable routing is likely to be different. My alternator is in front of the engine at the drivers side so the cable drops down from the Battery Junction Box and saraight to the Alternator. Here's a thread from when I repaired mine. It doesn't seem to be letting me upload pictures at the moment, so I can't show you where it connects to the Alternator.

Did the mechanic replace the cable between the alternator and the Battery Junction Box when he replaced it. The Battery Junction Box;s fail and melt as the crimps on the end of the cables are poor, causing them to overheat and damage the fusebox It is a common fault. The first cable/crimp to fail is likely to be the one between the alternator and the fusebox as that draws the most current (150Amps top one as you look at it). The next is the next one down which takes the power from the Battery Junction Box to the Fusebox in the cabin by the drivers right knee. The cable between the BJB and the alternator should have been replaced and/or a section cut out and replaced. New cables should have the crimp soldered to prevent future failure. Look at this thread which you may find useful. If you run the car and the cables into the fusebox heat up then you are dropping voltage before it gets to the battery and the system will see this as a problem. Check the voltages at the alternator and the battery as described in the link. If there is a significant difference between them then I that will indicate the cable is the problem. I suspect your original failure was caused by the crimp on the cable to the BJB.

Assuming you have a laptop use one of these Make sure you use the drivers supplied with the cable. Download the free VCDS-LITE software from the link in the listing and use that. You can't auto scan on the free version, you need to select the modules individually.

Mine failed in the same way the week after I got it. Split nylon cog, that engages in the worm gear. I replaced it with one from ebay off a MKI that is all metal. The mountings and apertures are all the same so it's a straight swap. Just hammerited and greased it.

Yes. Glow Plug light (coil shaped orange) will come on briefly when you turn on the ignition then go out. It stays on a bit longer when it's cold. If it comes on when you are driving, or starts flashing it indicates a problem. The engine shaped indicator which doesn't light up is for petrol engines.

If you jack the car up and lift the front wheel off the ground, the top of the the shock absorber will move (though I'm not sure how much). It is designed that way and there is an instruction for MOT testers about this as some have been failed for this, when it isn't an issue. I believe it sits in an inverted cup so the weight of the car keeps it located. As the Galaxy isn't really intended to be driven with the wheels off the ground it shouldn't be an issue!

I've had my 05 a couple of years and only noticed this last month too. :D

Assuming you mean the VCDS-LITE/VAG-COM lead. Yes it does cover Ford Galaxy as this was built by VW. It will work for TDI and possibly V6 engines but not 2.0/2.3 Ford petrol engines.

Glad you are sorted. I believe you can monitor the two outputs from the throttle position sensor with VCDS-LITE/VAG-COM

As you have a MK3 you might get more responses in the MK3 Forum

I believe the accelerator is electronic and contains two potentiometers that need to agree for the ecu to believe the signals from it. It is possible that they are not agreeing and the ECU goes into a safe mode and keeps the engine at a constant speed. There are other threads about this if you search. Try this one. Search for throttle position sensor

Hi csj, First of all clear the fault and see if it comes back straight away (probably better with engine running). If it doesn't drive it about and check again. If it doesn't come back forget about it! It may have been stored in there for a while. If you are lucky it may have been a brief disturbance to the wiring that has stotred it, as the codes don't self clear. If it does come back then look at the Ross-Tech wiki here Looks like it might be wiring to injectors, Pretty sure this is under the rocker cover and prone to problems. I seen to recall others have had issues that have been fixed by replacing the injector wiring harness.

...and it does say it was sold on ebay!