SilverBeast

Weird isn't it how this thread becomes popular again when the weather gets hot!

(i) Metric Socket Set. (ii) Torx Screwdrivers or a set with Torx bits (You need these in lots of places including for removing the headlights). For the headlight I also use the extensions from a 1/4" drive socket set to get at the screws near the bottom. (iii) Multimeter for all the electrical faults is really useful. (iv) Tool for unfastening the hose clips is really useful. Depending how much you are doing varies what you need. Some seatbelt mountings need a Spline Drive set (which looks like a Torx but isnt) Probably easier to post your problems and ask what tools you need for the task

I used VAG-TACHO just to enable the "Miles to Empty" on the trip computer of my Galaxy and didn't have any issues. Mirez has done an excellent guide on doing this though.

...however new driveshafts are about £35 on ebay with a 2 year guarantee and it's easier and less messy than changing changing just the ring.

I believe you are correct. I also recall seeing that the car has to be driven for a while before the system decides that the system is functioning correctly. Driving over 20mph? rings a bell.

Luckily? I got my air con fixed for about £160 by doing a lot of the work myself and using a very helpful mobile specialist in my own garage.

Got mine from Fleabay, but was able to view first. Have a good look around the Forum and you'll find most of the regular/design problems. A lot can be fixed yourself if you are comfortable working on your car. Biggest thing I had done was the cooling radiator and wish I'd changed that myself as I'm sure they damaged my aircon pipework when they did it. I know they left out some bits when they put it back together and had to ask for them back.

Also check the Battery Junction Box (search the forum for pictures). This is a black box at the front of the engine bay under the battery cover. The fat horizontally challenged red wire from the battery goes to it. Open the cover and check for overheating of the top one or two fuse links that the other red wires go to. This is a common problem due to poor crimps. See here for details. It does sound mostly like Drivers Door gaitor wires to me though, particularly as all the windows came down - same as if you hold the key in the unlock position in the door! If it wouldn't start for 30 minutes your battery is likely to have been low, and low voltages have been seen to cause all sorts of gremlins.

Have you tried both keys?

I'm pretty sure the batteries in the key have nothing to do with your problem and they are only for the alarm and central locking. That is certainly the case on the diesels which have a VW system. The petrol engines are Ford however so the immobiliser may be different I doubt it though. 1) How many keys have you got? Does it fail to start with all of them? 2) If you only have one. Did you replace the batteries or did the key come apart immediately before the car stopped starting?

You are talking about two systems. 1. The alarm and central locking. This uses the batteries in the keys for the remote side of it. If you follow the instructions in the manual pages for adding your existing key for that you can't do any harm as you don't have a key that works anyway. These are the instructions that turn the key in the drivers door lock three times then pushing the buttons on the remote. If your window all come down you have held the key in the unlocked position two long. The worst that can happen with this is the remote won't unlock the car because it's faulty. Follow the instructions carefully and try again if it doesn't work. I had to do mine when I changed the batteries in one of my keys and it took me more than one go as I kept turning the key the wrong way. It can't stop the key from starting the car. If you get a second remote key later you will have to do this again as you are clearing all keys from the system then adding them again. 2.The immobiliser. This is also called the Passive Anti Theft System (PATS). This uses a coil in the steering column around the ignition switch to "talk" to a device in the key (the "PATS" chip). This chip is separate from the PCB the batteries go into and can easily fall out and be lost if the key comes apart or when the batteries are changed. There are pictures of the chip on the Forum but it looks like a small rectangular block of plastic. If you changed your batteries and the car still starts and runs fine then your key still has it fitted. You don't need to do anything about coding this again if yet as it won't be affected by changing the batteries. There are four options when adding another key to the PATS system. a) If you have 2 existing keys (as long as they are not clones) you can do it yourself using the instructions in the manual pages. b) The key can be added to the system by a Ford dealer who knows what they are doing and probably wants an arm and a leg. c) You can use software yourself. I believe VAG-COM or VCDS-LITE can do it but you may need a vehicle PIN number to do it. I've not done it myself. d) Finally and probably the best option for you is if you can find a key cutter who can "clone" the existing PATS chip on your key and effectively copy it onto another chip. They basically read it from your key and put it onto another. It would probably be best if you bought the key from them and had then copy it. You could have a remote or none remote key done as a spare as it would still do the alarm and locks as now.

Hi Abraham Follow this link to a new topic I've just created containing the pictures of the Manual pages to do with the Central Locking, Immobiliser and Key Programming.

Attached are the photos of the pages from my 2005 MKII TDI on the central locking and immobiliser including programming. As far as programming goes. (i) Assuming you have remote keys of the correct frequency. You can add or program the remote keys without having a working remote key and without going to Ford. (ii) Assuming you have a new key (remote or otherwise) with the immobiliser (PATS) chip. You can add keys to the immobiliser system if you have two keys that will start the car (that's just the easiest way to determine if they are working with the immobiliser (PATS) system.

On the diesel there should be a decal on the passenger door pillar at sill level that has tyre pressures on it.

You have to turn it to the unlock position and back to neutral within a certain time (2-3 sec from memory) you then have until the led stops flashing to operate the buttons on the remote. If I recall it flashes at a different rate when it is accepted and then resumes flashing at the faster rate ready for the next key. I believe you have to reprogram all keys each time you have to do this.

Could be wiring. Mine had intermittent problems that turned out to be a cracked connector on the wire from front the pad.

Sorry, I didn't get an email or Private Message. I'm assuming that you have a MKII Galaxy. I'm not sure you can download the manual from the ford site. A 2006 can be a MKII or a MKIII. Here is a link to the Seat Alhambra Manual which will have a lot of similarities as it's basically the same car. Programming of keys however is different. Batteries in the keys have nothing to do with starting the car, they are only used for the Central Locking, which also turns on/off the alarm (if I'm wrong seatkid will correct me!). A remote key can be programmed to lock/unlock the car yourself. Instructions are in the manual. Once you replace the batteries in yours you can program itself, the instructions are in the manual, and on this site. I've just changed them on my 2005 and I'm pretty sure you need 2 x CR2016's. First check once fitted will be does the red key LED come on when you press the button. To start the car you need a key with the aforementioned Passive Anti Theft System (PATS) chip in it. Again you can program this yourself - but only if you already have two keys. I believe it is also possible to program the key to the PATS keys using VAG-COM/VCDS-LITE but I understand you need a Vehicle PIN to do this, that may only be available to the dealers. The other option (again gleaned from this site) is that some key cutters can "clone" the PATS chip from your existing key. Good Luck.

Apart from make sure the radio was working (traders usually have a "friend" at the dealers who can get them the code)And make sure the remote key was working! Once you have fitted new batteries you will need to programming it to your car again. If you change the batteries yourself do it in the middle of a big clear table and make sure you don't lose the small black PATS chip or the immobiliser will stop you from starting the car (apart from for a few seconds). Search the forum for PATS if you are unclear and there are pictures of the key and chip.

The mobile specialist who repaired the Dual Air Con on my 2005 MKII said the vents got cooler on mine than on his S-Max even when it had just been re-gassed.

From your description of what happens it sounds like someone has wired in the switch to force the glow plugs to run and bypass/override the engine managements control of these. Assuming you have a laptop I suggest you get a VAG-COM/VCDS lead from ebay (<£10) and use the free VCDS-LITE software to scan for error codes. Clear any you have first, try and start the car then scan again. This may help identify the problem. If you keep the car it will more than pay for itself anyway.

You won't get much of a voltage drop till you try and draw current. If the wire is corroded or has a few of the internal strands broken it will have a higher resistance which will mean it needs more current to get through the wire and the voltage would then be dropped partially across the wire and not across the motor as normal. Did you measure the resistance between the fuse and the pillar connector on the existing wire. I would expect it to be less than 0.5Ohm.

Here's a picture of the Fuel Filter bracket in-situ with one of the turbo pipes removed. It's the same one as in seatkids diagram. Mine was broken too and I bought one form the Ford dealers, it wasn't as too badly priced - not as much as I was expecting anyway! £7 rings a bell but my be way off. Has the switch any symbols on it, or is it something that has been added?

Isn't there a relay that is known for having dry joints that stops it turning over, or does that just stop it firing? Or is it only on the diesels?

Sounds like a garage worth naming and recommending. We don't seem to get too many of those!

I use VCDS-LITE you can down load from the Ross-Tech site and have used VAG-COM too. If you can't talk to it, it may be a wiring fault or possibly one of the fuses is blown.