SilverBeast

These often have a bad solder joint inside. They can be opened up and have the joints reflowed if you are used to soldering.

It's here (blue circle) Mine's just like this with the drivers headlight removed. Looks like something should go into it but doesn't. I wasn't sure if something else had been left off by the garage that replaced my radiator but when I asked on the Forums no-one seemed to think it should be any different. It goes to a tube in the drivers wing that then feeds into the air filter housing (they'd managed to leave that rattling round inside the wheelarch too!

You will release any remaining gas if you take off the cap. The drier cartridge is underneath it. It is fairly common for the tube to be corroded and to not be able to get a seal again (you get a new cap with seals with the drier if I recall). I was lucky as mine had been greased around the lip and was able to be replaced when I had a pipe repaired. I even got a reduced price on the drier cartridge as the mobile aircon specialist I used had had it some time and didn't think he'd get to use it as all mine was the first he could get the cap off!

If you've had the clock spring connectors apart I'm pretty sure you will need to reset it by using VCDS-LITE or VAG-COM to clear the faults before the light goes out. I wouldn't fiddle with the clock spring any more until you get VCDS talking to the controllers. Does it see any other controllers?

All back together and no leaks. Easier than I hoped. Biggest pain was cleaning up the sump and bottom end of engine to ensure a good seal and to make any leaks easier to spot). I also changed the gearbox oil as well. Front discs, pads and brake fluid replaced today (by garage my trusted mechanic as I don't have a 200lb/ft torque wrench and have had enough for now!). Next is replace rear wheel bearing, adjust gear selection cables to see if it will fix notchy gear change when cold then intermediate drive shaft and finally replace the booster heater as a strip and rebuild didn't fix it. Oh and need to fix fog light connection on tow socket. Just separating from wife so also have her house to decorate, this one to fettle and sell, and a new one to find for me. Needs a big garage though for looking after Galaxy though!

Might be worth putting in a link in for the ebay auction....

All back together now. Leaving it till Tuesday before I refill it though.

No cars left!

Thanks for the prompt response. I'm using kitchen roll and petrol and can't get anything else at present. Unfortunately needs must and the sealant was all Motorworld had and I didn't think about degreaser when I was getting the sealant. There is an SAS within 5 minutes in Otley but that was closed yesterday by the time I had my problem. I'll probably add the degreaser etc to my stock of stuff to keep as I've also noticed the inside of the offside front disc is badly scored so replacing those is another job to add to the list.

OK so I was stupid and put the wrong end of the siphon pipe for extracting the oil from the engine down the dipstick tube. I pulled the wider section of host off the end of the pipe into the sump! > :( OK so the sumps off and I have a tube of CarPlan gastite Multi-purpose Silicone Sealant instant gasket from Motor World (withstands -60 to +260 C and specifically mentions sumps!). Incidentally this comes in a tube the same as you use for frame/bathroom sealant with a trigger dispenser. Any recommendations for degreasing the surfaces. Sump has been cleaned with petrol (I have a can left over for a Suffolk Punch lawnmower I still need to fix!). Is petrol sufficient to degrease (albeit not particularly safe!) or can anyone recommend anything else I am likely to have at home? The sealant instructions are a bit confusing as it says apply to to target surface and "Do Not handle for at least 30 minutes to allow or a tack-free skin to form" This seems to contradict the instructions in Haynes which say to assemble within 10 minutes (though that is for the Ford part). Has anyone used this before? Should I leave it 30 minutes and then assemble, or assemble straight away? Obviously I don't want to have to do this again! I intend to align locate all the bolts, without bringing the surfaces together (hopefully). Any recommendations for locating/fitting the four that are buried in the flywheel/clutch housing as I suspect they will be "awkward"? Any recommendations for starting after I get it all back together? What's the easiest way to get oil back round the engine prior to starting or doesn't it matter. I was obviously changing the oil and filter anyway. To cap it all about 10 minutes after I had dragged the tube off my wife's Fiesta dumped all the power steering fluid when a pipe came off and had to be towed to the garage. ......and I still haven't won the lottery!

If other Galaxy runs may be easier and quicker to try and jump start. If you have been starting and not running for any length of time it is likely the battery is flattened. Check the Battery Junction Box (in front of battery that red +ve lead from battery goes into). These are notorious for bad crimps on the top and second from top leads on the RHS. Open top and look for evidence of overheating/scorching/distortion. Link I believe you are correct and it is the radiator fan but can't help you any further myself - I'm sure some of the more experienced gurus will be along soon

Sounds just like a flat battery

Try 31, 32 and 34

I believe there is a failed fuse that causes the trip to lose it's settings. Sorry it's a recollection from following the Galaxy forums. I suggest you check all the fuses in the fusebox with a meter, either for continuity or for voltage at either end.

(i) As chromedome said first let us know if there are vents in the roof above each of the 5 back seats. This will determine if it is a Dual or Single zone system and hence how much refrigerant the system should have been filled with as above. (Also whether there are even more pipes and joints to leak!) (ii) As you did before with the engine running check if the centre of the compressor pulley is turning with the air-con in Auto (should be) and Econ (shouldn't be). I think that if it does spin in Auto then you have a system pressure between the minimum and maximum as it should be. Mine wouldn't spin when tit was empty. (iii) As you have the same model as me the pictures in the linked post in this thread show the will help. Where my pipe failed is a common failure point, according to the specialist who fixed mine. On the Dual Climate systems it apparently also fails in the nearside rear wheelarch (possibly under the liner). (iv) The other common leak point is where the drier cartridge fits into the receiver radiator (vertical big black tube on the very left hand side of the receiver radiator in the last picture). A single screw in the top lets you remove a plastic cover (you can remove this to inspect as it doesn't let the gas out). Under this is the cover that goes over the cartridge. If it is leaking I understand it leaks round the outer edge of this cover and can be diagnosed by putting water (washing up liquid) in here and watching for bubbles. Unfortunately it sounds like if this has happened it is nigh on impossible to remove this cover and I was very lucky.

(i) Does it connect to the other controllers? If so then you have the software running right (ii) Have you checked the fuse box in front of the battery (Battery Junction Box) as I believe there is a fuse for the air bag there? ( From memory so probably wrong).

That's from a MKI seatkid. The Barlidge has a 2003 MKII which has a different panel at the botttom of the dash,

I would probably have done the same, but had already spent several weeks trawling this site in particular before I looked for and then bought mine (on eBay!). This site in particular has saved me a fortune. The other site was set up by regular contributed a from here when this one was down for some time round one Christmas. It is slightly easier to find things on because it has fewer posts, but obviously there is more on here.

You probably got most of the answers here, but seatkid usually often has more to offer as he has considerable experience with the Sharan/Alhambra/Galaxy.

My 2005 MKII has:- passenger side on front pads drivers side on rear

Did you re-pair it to the car after changing the batteries? Mine needed this after I changed mine.

I'm pretty sure the wires are in the Drivers side gaitor, All the wires join up in the cubby hole where the jack is stored on that side. I know the rear wash hose goes through the passenger side gaitor. I'm sure someone will be along to confirm this

Just had a quick look on ebay and I'm pretty sure the four bolt mechanism won't fit as where the spindles come out looks completely different.

If you get a large adjustable spanner on the lever on the opposite end of the spindle to where the wiper fits, and another large spanner on the casting (hold it in a vice) and keep working it. As it's moving it should eventually work loose, mine took a good hour at least. I assume you have disconnected the balljoint to the rest of the mechanism (it just prises out if I recall). With the circlip and rubber o ring off if you fit a (spare) nut half over where the wiper nut would fit you can also tap it lightly with a hammer. If you can do this while rotating you will be extracting the spindle while also freeing it. The further you get it through the less contact area you will have and the easier it should get to turn (in theory anyway). You'll want to take both spindles out to thoroughly clean and lubricate anyway. I also used emery paper to clean mine up. Just make sure you keep a note of how it all goes together. Digital cameras are brilliant for this. I don't believe a four bolt mechanism will fit but can't say for sure.

Mine need a 14" Adjustable to turn it when I freed it up. Give it a good soak in penetrating oil to start with though and work it slowly. Support the cast outer too while working it and as soon as it starts moving reverse direction. Basically just keep working it. From memory I think there is a circlip on top. If you take that off any any washers the spindle should come out - again work it and take your time. There are bushes in there but mine was caked solid with grease and stuff. If you turned the wipers off when connected, the motor should have gone to the "park" position. If you aren't sure just connect it up and run a single sweep (keeping clear of mechanism) before you reassemble. If you haven't removed the motor from the mechanism, or made a note so you can put it back in the same place you should be OK anyway.