SilverBeast

Mine only has a keyhole on the drivers side anyway. Worst case you should be able to unlock via the hatch lock.

Take off engine undershield and see if there is gearbox oil in there. Might give an idea where it has come from too. Inspect gearbox housing to see if you can see where it has come from. As you have read posts you probably know worst case is bolt has sheared/dropped from selector mechanism and caused something to punch a hole through casing, which is the only reason I can think of for the symptoms you describe. I fhope for your sake this is not the case. I assume gear lever is completely floppy and you can't select any gears.

I use the free VCDS-LITE software from Ross-Tech (It replaced VAG-COM) which you may see. NOTE. This should do everything APART FROM YOUR ENGINE MANAGEMENT as all the other bits are VW. The diesels and V6 are also VW. Only the 2.0 and 2.3 petrol engines are ford. I've got one of these from ebay. Use the drivers that come with it - make sure your Operating System is supported (it says Win 95 - Win 7 doesn't mention Win 8/8.1). Downloads for the software are contained in the listing - you need the free VCDS-LITE. You have to scan the modules manually as auto scan is only available in the paid for version. It should cover Air Con, Parking sensors etc Can't recommend anything for the engine as mine's a diesel. I'm sure someone will be along soon who can, though you may be better searching the forum or starting another thread as it's getting a bit Off Topic.

Try swapping a "good" one with the "faulty" one. That will tell you if its the sensor or the wiring.

The fuse links have their rating marked on the top. The biggest rated (150Amp in my case) is to the alternator (top on the diesel). On mine the second one down does to the fusebox in the passenger compartment. Any of the cables can be prone to this issue but these too are most susceptible as they carry the most current and will therefore generate the most heat in a faulty crimp.

See here for details

No. Did you replace the cable between the alternator and the fuse box? The fuse box gets damaged because the connectors crimped to the cable aren't done very well. This eventually causes high resistance and the overheating. If you haven't sorted out the cable your fuse box will just melt again. You need to solder the connectors to the cable.

We try to let new starters know too. Obviously I believe it should be part of the health and safety briefing! Unfortunately we aren't allowed phones in the labs so I don't believe there are any pictures. Haven't been called a lad in a while. I'm 50 this year!

The consensus seems to be that the cooling fan runs all the time when aircon is on auto.

If you look at the centre of the pulley from above you can tell if the centre is turning by watching the bolts on the top of it. Check by switching between ECON (off) and AUTO(on). If the voltage is too low (and it does sound like it) then the clutch won't engage and the compressor will never turn. Try checking the voltage with the connector disconnected (if you haven't already).

Yes. A fog light only needs to be in the middle or on the offside.

Oh yes!

That emoticon always reminds me of the guy at work who put his tounge on one of our temperature plates when it was set to -40C! He had to wait till we had got it to warm up before he could take it off again.

The diesels aren't Fords either but say the same about the battery.

My V40 used to get a very thin sliver of frost on the bottom of the front screen when it was humid.

The mobile aircon specialist who fixed mine, said his S-Max doesn't get as cold as my MKII Galaxy (admittedly at the vent outlets with only the front centre on) even when he has just regassed it! Just driven York to London to Leeds in a day (over 7 hours driving) and not got even a twinge. I've never had a car that comfortable! I've heard some people have issues with comfort on the MKIII's, though I guess that can happen to with any car - all down to personal preference/shape!

Yes, but it's more likely to be in the rubber gaitor between the body and the door as this is where the stress and bending happens. It could be in the drivers door gaitor too or even the hatch as failures in the wiring can cause shorts and all sorts of weird things can happen. I'd check passenger door gaitor first then the one in the drivers door if I were you. It could still be the switch and it would be easiest to check that if you have access to a spare to substitute (scrapyard?)

I'm guessing it's kicking in, starting to build up pressure then getting too high and cutting out. If you can get the codes read it may confirm this.

Sounds like it has to much refrigerant in it. Can you scan with vag-com or vcds. It should have a fault code. Is it single air con (no roof vents above rear seats) and been filled as if dual. The rating plate in the engine bay lists amount required for both.

I wouldn't suggest leaving for a minute. I have no intention of doing so either!! Probably read your booster heater post. Had to replace the brushes on my Auxilliary coolant pump and replace Booster Heater (it's the newer D5Z-F and the contoller PCB failed).

Look at the results of this ebay search there are some cables and handbrake repair kits further down the page.

Probably worth moving to the MK3 section as it's a MK3?

Mine has done it occasionally, especially in hot weather. Not been a big enough problem for me to try and track it down though. If it gets too annoying you can disable it by using the key to lock it. NOTE: You have ti turn the key to the lock position twice within a short space of time in order to disable the alarm.

Keep asking. I learn't most of the useful stuff from this site originally, though fordmpv is easier to search, only because it's newer with fewer posts. Mirez set it up when this site was down a lot. You can still post pictures on there and enlarge the ones in the posts, as unfortunately the maintenance on this one seems to be hit and miss. Still a massive wealth of information though. I try and read all the posts in the MKI/MKII section so I know what's coming!! You'll probably want to enable "Miles to Empty" on yours with it being a V6!

She'll have to put a DVD on an just listen to the sound instead!