SilverBeast

You can monitor the sensors in VAG-COM. It should tell you the distance each of them is reading.

If I recall the parking sensor box is under the front passenger seat (lift the flap of carpet under the seat from behind from the footwell of the middle row rear passenger side seat). I think it will be where the beep comes from when you switch the ignition on. It's the low point of the floor so water pools there. Mine got soaked under the passenger carpet when the rear washer hose became detached as the sound deadening underneath is effectively a hgh capacity sponge! I caught it before it got to the electrics as I read through this Forum (particularly the FAQ's) before I bought it and was aware of the many "features" that crop up! It's worth getting a VCDS-LITE lead from ebay (<£10) to use with the free VCDS-LITE software from Ross-Tech as you will be able to diagnose a lot of issues using this.

Without looking. I would guess that logically you should be able to swap the switches between the back doors to check if the wiring is OK, as it should be cheaper to stock a common part for both doors!

It's in his profile but not his signature. It's the same as mine!

I believe the DVD prevents swivelling as the wires would be pulled out of the back of the seat

From the other answers (and your pictures) MKI does NOT appear to have the rocker on the end of the stalk - my mistake MKII has a rocker to increase/decrease speed under cruise control where your set switch is - I have a MKII and have never driven a MKI

You may have downloaded the paid for version instead of vcds-lite the free version from the Ross-Tech site.

Doesn't te end of the stalk with the on/off/res switch have a rocker on the end that increases and decreases the speed? Or is that just the MKII?

I don't think the immobiliser is turned off by the key in the drivers door, or the the remote. Doesn't it need a key with the correct PATS chip to be in the ignition in order to turn it off?

...and don't forget, just because it has a full Ford Service History it doesn't mean they knew what they were doing, or even replaced parts that needed replacing! There are plenty of examples of this on this Forum. I'm getting cynical in my old age - then again the builders at my wifes new house have just melted through the wiring for two of the alarm PIR's that I have just fitted!

Technical Information System. It's the service information DVD that Ford mechanics used to use ( it's online now of course via subscription). It's available to download from some websites. (Allegedly :D)

Perhaps this will help. From MKII Haynes manual. Couldn't see anything like this on TIS. Not taken one apart myself. I just replaced the whole driveshaft

You probably need to clean out the bores where the spindles fit there appears to be two bearing surfaces, one at the top and one at the bottom of the bore, with a gap between them. My gap was full of gunge on both sides. I personally would use the advice above to remove the spindles as I needed a couple of 14" adjustable spanners in order to turn the drivers spindle, even with the rest of the linkage disconnected. I' d then remove the mechanism to clean and grease it properly.

Manual or Automatic. Either way I think it's more likely to be on the gear lever than the gearbox.

Mine did the same (not sweeping to the pillar on the drivers side) when the spindles were starting to seize up. Did you strip the mechanism and remove the spindles in order to grease (as in the Frequently Asked Questions) or just spray/grease what you could see? If you didn't strip then it is likely to be seized spindles. Even with it just missing the sweep by a couple of inches on the drivers side I needed a lot of leverage to turn the spindles when I took mine apart even though the motor still managed most of the sweep.

Yes the chip is passive (doesn't need a battery it gets power from a coil round the steering column ignition switch). It talks to the immobiliser system, which is what stops your car from starting.

Maybe he taught them to solder so they could fix it next time! Little hands would probably help getting at the relay in the first place too :D

I believe the Xenon headlamps can be adjusted for LHD/RHD but I understand the "ordinary" headlights probably need replacing with LHD versions as the lenses and bulb setup are designed specifically for each version.

I seem to recall reading that changing the intermediate dive shaft improved the gear change for a few people. Forgot to say the other thing I was going to try, but haven't got round to is adjusting the gear selector cables. This looks simple (and free!) Just a little awkward to access the cables at the gearbox end.

I also have a first to second crunch, but more so when cold. I have just changed the gearbox oil (though just with some from eBay) and it hasn't made a difference. I'm now down to trying to bleed the clutch, or replacing the intermediate drive shaft. Leaving it for now as I've lived with it for a couple of years, from when I bought it. It makes me drive in a less hurried fashion, which is no bad thing!

There is a tool for releasing then that fits round the smaller diameter pipe, then slides along the pipe into the joint. They should then pull apart. Never used one as I found a mobile aircon specialist to do the repair. I just took the front end apart and and put it back together again. The loose rings are supposed to clip into the joint to keep muck out, but usually fall out according to the specialist! From reading the forums it appears to be a common failure point so I'd call it a design fault myself.

Pressure switch with join above it. Where pipes go to under headlight (Fibre-glass panel removed) Mine was leaking from the the corrosion where the bracket holds the thin pipe to the wing Repaired pipe Pipe routing (but I think it's a LHD view). Basically pipes run from under headlight to back of engine bay (behind brake pipes) and across bulkhead to a join in front of the evaporator(?) behind the battery. There is also a pipe runs off this joint down the bulkhead and under the car to the rear evaporator if you have Dual Air Con (vents in roof above middle and back row seats. Didn't look that easy to replace which is why I had a mobile air con specialist repair mine.

Forgot to say I believe you can diagnose it by removing the plastic shield from the top of the engine, grabbing the cylinder head and rocking the engine front to back (really hard). If there is any significant movement then I believe it can indicate a problem (never had it myself).

Here's a picture with the engine undershield off (it actually sticks out through it). and from behind Don't worry my sump isn't usually that clean, I took the photos after removing and resealing it as I had dropped a piece of tubing down the Dip Stick tube !

If it started after you began towing check the engine roll restrictor, as I the extra stress of towing may have caused the bolt to fail.