SilverBeast

That's right. Mine has always been a bit obstructive from 1st to 2nd, especially when first started, I just never rush the changes. There is a procedure to adjust the cables that doesn't need any special tools, it's just awkward to access the gearbox end as the adjusters are to do with the springs on the end of the cables there. I believe there is a link on this site or fordmpv.com to a video on how to do this.

I suggest yours electric secondary coolantg pump is running first though, as the brushes only seem to last around 80K miles. See post here for details,

Have a look at this post

What I believe Brian meant was that in the fuse location with the fuse removed (or missing!) if you look at the sockets where the two "blades" of the fuse would plug in then you can see silver or gold contacts at both ends if there is supposed to be a fuse there. If they are missing (Usually only at one end) then it was unlikely that a fuse was ever fitted, or intended to be, in that location. If you can see contacts at both ends then it isn't definite a fuse was ever fitted but is more likely. Fitting a fuse of the correct rating in this case shouldn't do any harm.

I'm pretty sure the fuses for the cooling fans ( there can be one or two) are one/two fuseable links into the fusebox you have just replaced.

Assuming you checked with the ignition on, if there is no power to the heater (Fuse out) then it won't respond. I believe that the Fat red wire that supplies the power to the controller has been known to break down on or near the connector to the heater under the car.

Rear wash motor can run without pushing water as the impellor can be damaged/sheared. Possibly easier to take the hose off the motor first and ensure it is pushing water.

Probably not. I'm not even sure fuse 32 is relevant for windows. I'd be more inclined to recheck the wiring in the door gaiters. Try and check resistance with a multimeter rather than relying on a visual inspection. High resistance will not provide enough current to the motor so it won't be able to provide enough "effort" to operate the window. It could be the window itself is jammed or not running freely.

Sorry Faulty memory details are here Wires aren't brown but white/red and it only affects circuits supplied by Fuse 32. Wiring can be damaged and corroding if there has ever been a leak.

I believe there is a junction for the ground wire's that is very badly done near where the rear washer hose joins in the passenger footwell. That had also caused lots of electrical issues. Details are on the forum somewhere. For the rear washer check the boot storage compartment on the passenger side for water as there is another similar joint for the hose roughly behind the top back row seatbelt mounting point that came apart on mine. Also check for water coming out of the bottom of the hatch as it can detatch where it goes onto the wiper motor in there. probably easiest to take the hatch trim label off and detatch hose from motor and operate rear washto see if water is getting that far, as it could also be blocked in the motor, or just the nozzle.

It would be but I have a J&R driveshaft (just the bottom bit in the listing) that i fitted a couple of years ago, that I believe is failing again. I have another (as I bought 2) that I'll probably put on to get another 2 years, but I won't be getting any more. Others have reported issues with fitting the cheaper drive shafts. I'd probably let the garage fit them and ask them how long/many miles they will guarantee them for. Changing isn't too difficult, though I haven't done the intermediate shaft (the bottom one in the listing). Make sure you ask them to pack plenty of grease in the intermediate shaft joint (where the splines for the two halves join the shafts) as it seems one of the causes of failure is lack of this allowing it to wear faster. If you intend to keep the car for some time, and want it to last it's worth installing the "Motomax Polish" driveshaft. See details about it here. You can order it from here

Have to read the post title properly, instead of just the posts! It's not like you hadn't said so already. :rolleyes:

(i) Is the problem just with key operation, or does it also happen with remote operation? (ii) Is it just the drivers door or also from the passenger door? (if you have a lock - mine doesn't) (iii) Does the central locking still open all the doors from the hatch lock? (iv) If you sit in the car does the central locking still work from the switch on the drivers door? It sounds like the mechanism in the door is broken/misaligned to me, particularly if it feels different.

Common problem see here for details of what I did. See the last note at the bottom for what can be done about yours. You should be able to source some 150Amp welding cable, butt connector and a ring lug connector from ebay (I did but didn't used them). You should be able to use lower rated wire if you want as long as it's greater capacity than the fuse link value in the Battery Junction Box. Make sure you solder the joints and don't just crimp then as that is the reason they fail in the first place. Be sure to solder the top black wire if it hasn't been done already while you are at it. Be even more sure that you insulate the butt joit adequately if you do this.

I guess it's probably one of the brown ones on the -ve terminal that fits onto the battery.

Try the MKIII Forum. MOVED IT FOR HIM ;)

I believe if the air con is set to AUTO the fan will be on all the time anyway (even if the air con isn't working). Have you tried switching it to ECON and seeing if the fan goes off?

VAG Error Code: 18080 EOBD II Error Code: P1672 Fault Location: Engine Coolant Blower Motor, Speed 1 - Open Circuit or Short Circuit to Earth Possible Cause: Wiring open circuit/short to earth.

Sorry should have read the Thread Title properly, I guess it's just the gearbox you want to know about!

From reading the Forums and owning mine (2005 TDI 130 Manual) (i) Air Con - various issues (ii) Run On pump at about 80k. Brushes wear out and can be replaced relatively easily. (iii) Booster Heater glow plug (earlier MKII's) controller (late MKII's) (iv) Door and Hatch Gaitor Wiring with all sorts of weird symptoms (v) Rear wash wipe (simple fix if not left too long) (vi) Front wiper mechanism seizing (can be fixed relatively easily if it's not been left too long) If you've had yours any length of time you probably experienced most issues anyway. I'm not aware of any particular issues because it's a diesel. Don't know about the auto box

You haven't said what engine or MK it is, and I can't see it in your profile. Assuming it's a MKII diesel I believe it also drives the Alternator and air-con. I thought it could be removed after slackening the tensioner without having to move any of the auxilliary items. The link here explains how to do this.

Recirculation mode just means it only draws air in from the cabin for the rear air-con (and I suspect the heating) at all times. The front air (and heating) can draw the air either from the cabin or through the pollen filter behind the front wiper mechanism depending on the setting on the climate control.

The site seems to have problems uploading (and has done for some time). You could try here I use both sites as this one has a lot of information, but it can be difficult to find.The other one is newer but shares a lot of members with this one, and it can be quicker when looking for the "common" faults

If you have a newer model diagnostic socket will be below the Fuse Box near the drivers right knee.

Have you only checked the tailgate? The wires i the gaitors to the doors suffer the same issue, start with the drivers as this gets most stress (more than hatch as you use the drivers door every time you drive the car). There is also an bundle of earth wires (brown I think) that are under the plastic trim on the sill that runs under the passenger door. These aren't joined particularly well and are prone to failure by corrosion if the rear wash pipe joint in the same trim has ever come apart and leaked. Search the Forum for details of this. Failures in these door/hatch gaitors and this earth joint have been reported to cause lots of different issues. To fault find you could disconnect the door gaitors and see if that stops the lights flashing (you will need to reconnect them again in order to be able to use the central locking or do it the old fashioned way with your hands and the key). I believe there will also be a connector in the boot to allow you to disconnect the boot wiring. That should be inside the panel where the jack etc is stored. Just taping up the wires won't fix most issues:- (i) There will be broken/failing insulators inside cracked wires inside the insulation which can cause high resistance (and heating) and voltage drops. (ii) Immobilising the wires will make the bundle more rigid and apply more stress to the "outside" wires leading them to breakdown/fail sooner. Unfortunately the only way to repair them reasonably permanently is to replace the section of wire that is in the gaitor so the join is inside the door where it doesn't get stressed so much.Easy to say, not so easy to do and fortunately I haven't had to do mine yet.