SilverBeast

@bfc1001 Look at this thread MK II Coolant Sensor Replacement for details on the coolant sensor. It's NOT easy to get at. @Mirez As my coolant sensor only has two pins on the connector does it still contain two actual sensors with the body as Ground? I am aware some sensors have 4 contacts so assumed that they contained two actual sensors and mine only had one. Thanks

I have a 2005 TDI 130. I have recently replaced the brushes in my "run on" pump as it wasn't working. Mine also doesn't run on after the ignition is switched off. It is definitely running when the engine is. I wondered if maybe a change was made to the engine management so that it no longer runs the pump after the engine is turned off. On the other hand I have the following fault on VAG-COM: 17664 - Engine Coolant Temp Sensor (G62): Open or Short to Plus P1256 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent Mine is a two pin "blue" sensor. I got a replacement from one of the other Forum members who bought it in error (a few years ago!). I connected this up (without exchanging) while I was fixing the run on pump, but the fault didn't clear, so I assume the fault is in the wiring and didn't bother to change it as I have read on the forum this is somewhat awkward - it was hard enough disconnecting the connection by feel! The Temperature guage seems to work OK, and the car runs fine, but I wondered if this may be causing the run-on pump to not run-on! Richard

If by position light you mean the indicator. If it's the same as in my 2005 MkII it has a long extension stalk attached to the back of it. You need to rotate through approximately 90 degrees anticlockwise (as viewed from the inside the wheelarch). The stalk and bulb then pull out. You replace the bulb in the stalk and refitting is the reverse. Try and remember which way the stalk is oriented when you withdraw it as you need it in the same position when you reinsert it, though I think it can be 180degrees out. It's such a pain to do as there is a plastic moulding in the arch that takes the air from the intake in the grill into the box with the air filter.

You could check under your passenger seat and see if the electronics controller is damp. I seem to recall reading in one of the other threads that when water had leaked in, either from the rear washer hose seperating in the passenger footwell or through leaks, it caused the winows to wind up and down and the doors to lock and unlock. Good luck

Mirez, I have a 2005 TDI 130 with the bits on you have fitted. Here are a couple of photos of mine showing how the rubber strip is fitted. I can't guarantee the fitment is correct as I have fixed my stuck wipers, overun pump motor brushes and pollen filter since I got it, so I may have put them back wrong. I seem to recall one time it looked similar to yours but it was because the two side strips that clip round the bottom the screen weren't clipped into the strip on the back of the scuttle. Incidentally the two side pieces seem to be stuck to the bottom of the screen, but I was told this had been replaced by the previous owner, so they may have got jammed in then. If you haven't fitted any to the sides then maybe the scuttle is riding up the screen till the strip they should clip into hits the bottom of the glass. The long piece across the middle isn't stuck to the screen though. Hope this is of help. Richard

If that's the case then either of the middle or back row left hand seats from yours should fit

Assuming they are both MkI or II's (a mix is aparantly OK as the seats fit both), you could always take all 5 seats from the back of yours and fit them in the other car for the duration of your trip. You may only need to exchange the middle row as I assume that's where they have two and you have three. The only issue may be the middle seat's belt as if it only has two fitted in the middle row it may not have the lap and diagonal belt fitted to the roof. OK if your middle seat has a lap belt only though. Have a good holiday.

I believe you have a Mk III. You will probably be better off posting in the Mk III Forum. This is the Mk I/II Forum. :( Good luck in finding one

You could try emailing the ebay sellers listing Galaxy's for breaking and asking them. That's what I did. Richard

Mine did the same the first time I used it. The Nylon cog was also split on mine. I also doubt that superglue would fix it. I bought one off ebay from a MkI and treated it to a good coat of hammerite and plenty of grease before fitting. It uses the same fixing holes and just bolts on. As it's all metal it is probaly also vulnerable to cable snapping as you can probably strain it more and damage the cable. It was around

This sound very much like your PATS transponder is missing from your key as gregers said. I recall reading elsewhere on the forums the same symptoms (here Same Problem). I suggest you take both keys apart (as if changing the battery) and compare them. I would do this on a large flat surface if I was you as I understand the chips can fall out easily. If you have changed a battery recently in one of the remotes (or someone else did before you got it) then it may have fallen out then. This tells you how to reprogram the PATS chips, but unfortunately you need two working keys, so it's only useful to add a third etc MKII PATS Key Programming I also read somewhere that some keycutters can "clone" the PATS chip, so assuming you can get another one (from ebay?) then they could do that. I have also heard that VAG-COM can do this. You could also get this done by a Fraud garage, but may need a mortgage! Good Luck

Sorry if it seems obvious but, have you checked that your spare wheel is "tight" up to the body? If it is loose it could swing a bit and bang against the bodywork, though I would also expect it to happen when braking as well.

I've had a search through the Forums and although there are plenty of posts on air conditioning problems I couldn't find an easy way to find air conditioning specialists that people would recommend, so I'm starting this thread. Please post any air conditioning specialists you have had good service from and would be happy to recommend. Now for the selfish bit. Can anyone recommend a good air conditioning specialist (preferably mobile) in the Leeds/Bradford/Harrogate area of West Yorkshire (I actually live in Otley!)

Hi. This sounds like the fairly common wiper spindles seizing. Look at the FAQ section here --> HERE 45 and 68 both refer to this issue. Mine drivers side started to not travel as far as it should. It is realtively easy to fix yourself if you are reasonably handy - The hardest part for me was getting the passenger wiper arm off the spindle! You could point your garage at this site. The only problem is it can take quite some time to free the spindles once the mechanism is out. One of mine needed a 14" adjustable spanner just so I could turn it. It just needs some time and plenty of WD40. Good luck

Hi, I am interested in enabling this feature on my 2005 MkII TDI (130) Galaxy Ghia. Do you know if this lead would work with this dash? I notice ebay listings such as this one ebay link seem to say work with VDO dashes up to 2004. Did something change at this point? Am I correct in assuming that this plugs into the OBD connector? Thanks Richard

I suspect if it was leaking inside the tailgate it would drip out of the bottom. I can't remember if there is an access panel for changing the bulbs in the rear lights in the hatch but you may find moisture in there. I suggest:- (i) Check under passenger seat as I mentioned above. If you have tried to squirt quite a bit recently then I would expect this to be still wet if it is the passenger footwell. (ii) Check inside the left rear access panel above the 12V socket. (iii) Check if the hatch is dripping water or inside the access panel if there is one! (iv) Check for water dripping from the front bumper on the passenger side just in front of the front wheel. After (i) & (ii) if these areas are dry I would suggest you try and squirt before checking (ii) again.

Mine came apart in the passenger footwell, the carpet won't get wet near the passengers feet straight away it first soaks into the sound insulation under it first which is basically a massive dense sponge with a thick rubberised sheet on top. My advice would be DON'T KEEP TRYING TO USE IT. It took me ages to dry it out (towels first -pints of water - then propped with a piece of wood for weeks as I didn't want to cut carpet, then several hours with a fan heater and some tumble drier hose). If you reach under the passenger seat from behind and lift the flap of carpet you may feel water down there first if it is leaking from here. Dry it out quickly if it is as, as you have probably read already, the some of the electronic control modules for the windows and central locking are there in nice dip designed to sit them in water, which they don't like. This forum link is the one I found most useful for the passenger footwell-->link Mine also leaked in the D pillar but I'm pretty sure this was because the pipes had frozen in the very cold weather at the start of the year. To check this open the hatch and remove the access panel on the left hand side above the 12V socket. If it has leaked in here then the carpet inside is probably wet. See the end of the above post where I have posted about this. You need to remove the D Pillar trim panel to fix this which also means removing the upper mounting bolt for the left rear seatbelt. This is a spline drive (not Torx) so you may need a special bit to do this. I managed to remove with a Torx bit but had to buy the spline drive bit in order to torque it back into place. The joint is between the D pillar and the duct that carries the cooled air for the air-con roof vents (at least if yours is working :( ) and awkward to rejoin because of it's location. Good luck Richard

I have a 2005 MKII Galaxy TDI 130 that has a similar issue. It has been diagnosed with a leak (via dye) in the thinner pipe that is to the left of the one shown in the pictures, which I assume is the high pressure side. Apparantly there is a fixing bracket that has worn the pipe. It looks as though this pipe is one run from below the headlamp to the back of the engine bay, then across the back of the engine bay and onto the condenser(?) where it is attached via a fitting that also seems to tie it to the low pressure pipe. For good measure it appears that there is a (compression?) t-piece off each of these pipes to feed the lines to the condenser(?) for the rear air-con!! Looks to me like I would need to drop the engine in order to feed these out and replace, as there are also brake lines in the way for good measure. Does anyone know of a good air conditioning specialist in the Leeds/Bradford/Harrogate area of West Yorkshire that they could recommend? Obviously I don't want to pay through the nose (I am a Yorkshireman born and bred after all!) but do understand it's worth paying a bit more for someone who knows what they are doing and only needs to do the job once. Hopefully they will be able to cut and rejoin the pipe but clearly access is 'limited'. Thanks Richard

Thanks chrispb123456 That was just the info I was after. Didn't notice it last time as it's on the back of the harness. Shorted out as suggested and my booster heater came on fine. :blink: My run-on pump is not working however, so I've just ordered some brushes. I'll do them when I replace the coolant temperature sensor, it should give a bit better access to that while the pump is out. Then there should just be the air-con to sort out! Thanks again Richard

Hi gregers, Read the whole thread, mentioned the location seatkid posted above in my post above. As stated I didn't notice it when I removed the wiper assembly (I admit, it doesn't mean it's not there though). That's why I was asking if it has been moved on the later models before I take it apart again. Can't even find it mentioned in TIS 2004! Thanks for the response, I'll just have to look next time! Hopefully tomorrow. Cheers, Richard

I have a (facelifted?) 2005 MkII TDI 130 (93k miles). I noticed that it wasn't warming up on my 15 minute journey to work last winter, and thought this was normal as I only got the car in September. I have had flame outs registered in VAG-COM and cleared these, however the outside temperature is now not warm enough to activate it. I understand it should come on below 10C (or even 5C). Does anyone know if the external temperature sensor that the heater uses to determine this temperature has been moved on these models? I'd like to dip it in ice and try and trigger it. I guess I've got a D5WZ-F heater but won't be able to tell until I remove it. I have recently freed the wiper spindles as they were starting to seize and didn't notice the external temperature sensor that seatkid pictured in post #455 on Page 31 of this thread. The panel that surronds the wiper spindles is also one piece that is the full width, rather than the 3 section one that appears in the early pictures of the wiper linkage thread, which I only read after putting everything back together and patting myself on the back, so didn't check at the time. Sigh! If it's moved I'll post a picture of it's location once I find it! While I'm at it my coolant temperature sensor is intermittent (VAG-COM) is this likely to affect operation of the booster heater? Is this the one used for the coolant signal. I noticed that the cooling fans were running as soon as I started the engine just before I had the radiator replaced.

Just another note of thanks. Drivers wiper started stopping 6" shy of the A pillar at the top. Half expecting it as had trawled the Forums, prior to buying last year, for potential problems and what to look out for. Mind you still had to replace the spare wheel pulley in the first week, just had a leaking radiator replaced, noticed the air-con has stopped working with a leaking pipe against mounting bracket under the drivers headlight (looks like engine needs to come out to replace :D ), got VAG-COM working today and discovered my coolant temperature sensor needs replacing and guess my auxillary/booster heater glow plug needs replacing too - I wondered why the tempearture guage didn't move off the stop in my 15min journey to work when it was very cold last winter! :D Oh and two leaks in the rear washer lines - passenger footwell and D pillar joints. Reasonably easy to do. Drivers spindle however required a 14" adjuatable for leverage just to be able to turn it. I am amazed the wiper would even move! :o It took over an hour with WD40 and the spanners. It was also easier to apply downward pressre to the spindle while 'easing'. One point I would advise is not to just turn the arm and hold the linkage (I was concerned I would shear the end off) I used a 12" adjustable so the jaws fitted either side and 'supported' it a little better. Bit awkward to manipulate it all but I suuported the overall mechanism in a workmate (vice, not someone I work with!). One thing I didn't see was the temperature senaor for the Auxillary Heater, that is mentioned as clipped to the wiper mechanism. I think they must have moved it on the later MKII's as my trim panel that the wipers pass through is also one piece across the whole width of the car compared to the photos above. There that feels better. Thanks again for the information, it would take much longer to figure things out without the help of you all. Richard

I have a 2005 '05 Galaxy MkII. The 'usual' joint in the passenger footwell came apart in the 'very' cold last winter. I just plugged it back together and dried out the sound deadening 'sponge' and carpet (over several weeks). Shortly afterwards I notice wipers had stopped working again. This time it was a joint in the 'D' pillar at the back that I haven't seen mentioned before in thie thread. It is of the same type as the one in the footwell but is between the air channel for the rear air con and the 'D' pillar itself, just above the upper seatbelt mounting for the LH rear seat. Very difficult to rejoin, in the end I had to move the air channel forwards a little to get at it. (It's also fun finding all the plastic and metal clips for the 'D' pillar trim panel when you drop them down inside the load area wheel arch cover :o ) It still doesn't squirt high enough to reach the top of the area swept by the wiper though, which leaves a nice mucky bit at the top in dry weather.