SilverBeast

Please come back and let us know how you get on. Mine are looking as though they will need doing soon. Not too bad on the outside, but I know at least one has the paint coming off in sheets on the inside! Has anyone had a go at doing it themselves?

A 2007 is a MK3 I believe. You may have more luck posting in the MK3 section. I believe you can set the alarm to reduced guard, that will disable tilt and interior movement sensors via the steering wheel controls. It should tell you how in the owners manual. I don't have (MK3) myself and have only gleaned this from a pdf of the owners manual from the net.

I'm pretty sure the ECU on the MKII's is behind the Battery.

125lb/ft I use a breaker bar to undo mine. I had a bit of a struggle when I had a puncture on a rear tyre last year (flat in 30sec). Even after I got the bolts out the wheel needed "a good kick" as the alloy was a tight fit over the centre cap on the rear hub. Not much fun when it's only on the jack.

That'll be a MKIII then, you will probably be better posting in the MKIII forum

Makes more sense than the exhaust. The pillar on the near side contains the air channel that feeds the roof vents with the cooled air as seatkid says. Just behind that is a joint for the rear wash-wipe pipe - I know because mine separated there (as well as in the "usual" place by the front passengers feet) in the particularly cold spell we had a couple of years ago! It's a swine to get at and rejoin!

Check your Auxillary Fuse Box in front of the battery hasn't overheated.

This is the one I got, though it's even cheaper now!

You can enable range or distance to empty look at post 29 of this thread I've done mine using a VAG-TACHO lead from ebay. NOTE NOT a VAG-COM/VCDS-LITE lead

Sorry thinking about it I'm not sure it would run if the inner tripodal joint was not engaged properly I don't think it would turn properly any way. You could try lifting the front wheel off the ground and see if the drive shaft looks to be running true when you turn the wheel by hand. If you can see any eccentricity then that would translate to a bad vibration.

May be worth checking that the Drive shaft CV joint and inner tripoidal? joint are lined up correctly. Did you replace the hub bolt? This is a "stretch" bolt that should be replaced every time it is removed. It should be torqued up and then turned through a further 90 degrees.

1) No there is a lot more to it than that. It involves extra bits and reprogramming the dash. 2) I don't think the near side should move or open. The exhaust for the auxillary heater is that side so it isn't intended to open. 3) Don't know about this. ...and welcome to the site. I suggest you look through the Frequently Asked Questions to get an idea of what you may have to look forward to!!! I did before I bought mine and this site is one of may main sources of information and has saved me a fortune.

Well it came on again. I was pretty sure it wasn't Off Side Rear as I only had those changed recently. I managed to get at Near Side Front connector (the one on the hub) with the steering on left lock and connector seemed a bit flexible. Disconnected it and contacts looked a bit corroded. Reconnected and warning was gone wiggled connection and came back on. Disconnected again and the whole shell of the connector attached to the pads came off leaving the two contacts behind! Took off wheel so I could get at it more easily and cleaned up and superglued connector back together after cleaning contacts. Harness connector will not lock onto pad connector as the moisture seal at the back of it is a tight fit is probably dirty from not being fitted properly to broken connector. Not too bothered as it is OK again now and the broken connector will get replaced when I do the front pads next time. Pretty sure there isn't a sensor on the Off Side front as wiring on NSF is a Y lead shared with ABS sensor and couldn't see any wires on OSF (with wheel on).

Between 10 and 12? :D

Here's a link to the thread that mentions the junction in the passenger footwell. It does sound to me more like a problem with the wiring in the gaitor on the drivers side though, particularly if the drivers lock itself is intermittent. The insulation can crack and the wires inside corrode and fail. You really need to meter either end of the wire and check it is low resistance to check properly. Saying that I have been fortunate enough not to have this problem myself - it's only a matter of time though!

I believe there is a badly made up junction in the harness that can get soaked when the rear washer pipe splits in the passenger footwell. I think it's under the same panel as the pipe runs in or in the passenger left kick panel (plastic trim on left under glovebox). There have been plenty of electrical gremlins caused by this. Someone will be along who can give more details. It has been in other threads, along with a better description of the location and pictures! Have you tried the central locking switch on the drivers door panel (when sat in the car) or do you just mean by using the key in the drivers door lock? Have you tried locking/unlocking from the passenger door with the key? Alternatively it could be:- (i) Wires breaking in the gaitors - Seems to be most common - and drivers gets opened and closed most (ii) The switch/wiring on the drivers door that operates it manually could be faulty.

To be honest if mine goes permanent and I can't find out which sensor it is with VCDS Lite then I will link out each wear sensor in turn (on the plug on the wing) as the most likely wire to have a problem will be the one from the pad to the inner wing.

I wouldn't bother changing then glow plug until you have changed the run on pump brushes as you may not need to. It's clearly starting up as it will only be getting to over temperature because the run-on pump isn't going,as you have surmised. I've just taken the booster heater off mine yesterday. Mine's also a 2005 and has a D5Z-F fitted. It is more than likely the same in yours. I will start stripping it tomorrow but have already sheared 4 of the mounting bracket screws - steel screws into aluminium isn't a brilliant idea for something that hangs in the road spray! I have changed the brushes in mine and it is a lot less hassle and will I believe fix your problem. The pictures in the how to on fordmpv.com are from when I did mine.

I have a MK II Galaxy and it has wear sensors on both front wheels and on the drivers side only at the rear. My light comes on occasionally and though all the pads appear fine. I suspect dodgy wiring somewhere but it's never been on long enough to diagnose. Does anyone know if VCDS Lite can tell you which pad it thinks is low?

The design is different on the MKI (It's not in the box), so you can't change parts of the mechanism from one to the other(except possibly the cable and wheel hanger I suppose), but you can just swap out the whole mechanism and it will just fit. MKI mechanisms had there own problems too. The wire can fray and snap, and the wheel hanger can corrode if you don't keep any eye on it, and deposit the wheel on the road. If I recall someone on the Forum had it do this while they were driving!.

Exactly the same happened to mine the first time I tried it after buying mine. I replaced my mechanism with one from a MKI I got off ebay. This mechanism is all metal. I hammerited mine and greased well before fitting

I had a vibration when accelerating at around 20mph in (didn't matter what gear it was in). As for Barnyzuki a replacement Nearside Driveshaft fixed it. Mine cost around £36 delivered from ebay and I fitted it myself.

seatkid beat me to it - must type faster!

I believe the throttle pedal is electronic and the throttle position sensor uses two potentiometers. If they don't agree then the Engine Management assumes there is a fault and defaults to a fixed engine speed, so the vehicle can still be driven (sort of). If this is just developing on yours it may be jumping around as they agree then disagree. Sorry thats all I seem to recall reading (probably somewhere on this Forum). I guess it could be worn potentiometers in the throttle position sensor or faulty wiring to it. First port of call is to read the Fault Codes from the system. VAG-COM/VCDS-LITE leads are less than £10 on ebay (search the Forum there are plenty of links) and the free limited version of the software (good enough for most things) is available to download from the manufacturers website (Ross-Tech).

Same here, and same company (about £36 for the driveshaft). I have another sat in the garage as I thought the drivers CV had split too but turned out to be shed loads of grease left from the previous split!!