chrispb123456

Afraid so, thats the source of that wire terminal 53, fuse number 15 is for engine control looking at the power distribution diagram.

If I was you I would now go to the diesel control module terminal 53 and check for voltage there, it's behind instrument cluster. Assuming you checked for any blown fuses?

Pumps accessed from under middle row of seats, theres a round access plate in the floor. Would imagine its continuous when engines running but not 100% sure, relay 53 (pump relay) near the 109 relay which may also be faulty (not sticking my neck out this time) :unsure: Don't know about output tests on pump, think you would need registered version for that.

If your still not getting flashing from door led then it shouldn't be blocked by the immobiliser. Bit concerned running a bypass permanently, in one of your earlier posts you said you had 12 volts at the solenoid don't forget it should only be live for 2 or 3 seconds unless engine starts. Have a look at the large multiplug on the engine harness look for corrosion and possible breaks in wiring, will send you the wiring diagram and you could check for 12 volts at the engine control unit.

Thats OK for draining but needs to be on level to check level when refilling.

Just to add to what Seatkid has told you have a feel of the top radiator as the engine is warming up, it should stay cool till engines nearly up to normal 90, if it warms up gradually then thermostat or seal is letting coolant flow past. The diesels also have a booster heater fitted under the car this should fire up automatically upon stating engine when outside air temp is below 5 degs on MK1 and 10 degs on MK2 this speeds up the warming up time in the winter months, of course these heaters arnt without there problems, lots of help in the FAQ's should you need it. ps. is it starting OK now with the wire reattached to the pump?

This usually works on other vehicles and have done on my own Gal. Remove nut, with palm of one hand push down on arm by hinged section pressing towards screen, with other hand place fingers under same area and pull towards you using a rocking motion (push n pull) worked for me for years.

Hi and welcome to the forum Have another look under where you changed a switch as some cars have two switches, iirc ones blue the other black.

Hi there Has the problem gone away since the warmer weather has arrived or do you still have the fluctuating temperature gauge, maybe faulty temperature sensor? also does your booster heater work in the colder weather (below 10 deg c, also electric coolant pump (run on pump) check for humming in engine compartment when switching off engine, pump should stay on for 2 to 3 minutes then shut off. May be worth doing a scan with vagcom see if any fault codes stored for aux heat, and aircon.

At least have a recheck of the fluid level, also check out engine stabiliser mounting bushes and driveshafts while your under there, clunk may just be coincidence and not associated with autobox.

I take it the car is pretty new to you if you have just discovered this, Im guessing here I may be wrong, when you connect the fans up and run the engine are the fans running at a high speed or just a gentle speed. Just had this thought that if they were running at the high speed this may send a signal to the engine ECU to reduce power as it thinks the engine may be overheating. Would try running Vagcom with fans connected see if faults show up. As BJ said fans will run regardless of engine temperature if aircon is on and working.

Hi The measuring block your looking for is for timing an injection pump, thats not relevent to your engine you have a PD engine and have unit injectors with a high pressure supply pump and an electric in tank pump. You have all classic signs of 109 intermittant failure, sometimes you can get away with soldering dry joints but there not expensive stick a new one in problem solved

Have a read here regarding relay 109 and vagcom reading engine electrics http://www.tdiclub.com/TDIFAQ/TDiFAQ-8.html

I have another name for your DSG box it's an automated manual gearbox

Ah ha looks like the bill's been paid now we're back on again :)

Good advice there Would just add the MK2 has an in tank pump, if you turn the ignition on and off about twelve times that should refill your filter and save a load of cranking :)

Well I dont know how long your arms are but ive just opened my bonnet and put my arm down past the radiator, so im thinking if you jack up the car take off the undersheild you may be able to reach the outer cable, if you can grip the outer cable you need to push it toward the left side (Battery side) may help if some else pushes down on the bonnet to take the load off the lock while pushing cable. Cant see any other way without damaging stuff Good luck

I do beleive you only get 12 volt to the stop solenoid for about 2 or 3 seconds, try disconnecting original wire and do a temporary one straight from battery, listen for the solenoid click when you put 12 volts to it.

Make a note of those fault codes ,then clear them go for a drive see what comes back,seems like you may have some wiring/connection problems. Having to much or not enough fluid will create it's own problems, how can you say run engine for 5 mins, this is going to vary so much between different engines and the ambient temperature. The recommended temperature range for the fluid is 35 to 45 deg c you have access to VCDS so whats the problem.

If you do want to go the route of doing it yourself you will need Vagcom lead to get the correct temperature as this is quite critical, you can also check if there are any fault codes stored. As its impossible to drain all the fluid in one go you would need to change it two or three times with a drive between changes to get the fluid looking a reasonable colour the five speed box's filter is not possible to change without stripping box, the four speed the sump pan can be removed and filter changed but still not possible to get all fluid out as the torque converter and valve chest do not drain. Do the search for checking levels depending on which box you have. There is a filler cap a drain plug and a level plug, be sure you have the correct one (level plug)

Hi Mark Welcome to the forum Lots of helpfull people on here to help should you have a problem, although most things have been covered at some point, you can use the search feature and look in the FAQ's in technical section for common fixes.

Any air will be returned to the tank through existing pipework, once you done that it should only be neccessary to crack open one or two injector pipes, crank engine and watch for fuel being ejected from loosened pipes. Fuel will only come out injector pipes while cranking engine.

Depends how bad it is, it usually gets clooged up with oily soot which you have to dig/scrape out, best done by removing valve as you dont want all that muck falling down into manifold.

Apologies Kertrats24 you dont have a VNT turbo so your problem is not sticky vanes, you still have an N75 valve controlling wastegate this is located on bulkhead behind a heat sheild to the rear of EGR valve. Have another close look at the vacuum hoses especially the two on the turbo, have sent a pic of the pipe layout to help. Also pull the large pipe off the EGR valve and look into the valve it could also be clogged. As you dont have any codes for N75

Hi and welcome to the forum It does sound like your describing the thermostat housing this would be held in place by three bolts