chrispb123456

Pump is easy to test, just remove multi plug and supply battery voltage to it, or you could just try tapping or prodding it, when they first start to pack up there a bit intermittent and will usually run for a short time after being tapped with a long screwdriver.

The coolant overheat light also doubles as a low coolant level light. If it stays on constantly and not flashing, check the connections on the coolant bottle, you will need to remove battery to do this.

Common fault is broken/shorting wiring in drivers door gaiter and possibly other doors, look in FAQ's in technical section.

Not physically done this but if you have a donor vehicle then swopping parts over should be pretty straight forward, the problems will be with the electrics as you will need to swop wiring looms, instrument clocks etc. Could be you already problem with the wiring to the gearbox, there is a large multiplug that may have corrosion or broken wires may be worth checking here first. Vagcom may also help with diagnostics.

This link may help http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.php?/topic/20946-headlamp-removal/page__p__156081__hl__headlamp+removal__fromsearch__1#entry156081

there's 4 torx screws for each lamp the two front screws are quite tight for space so will need a long extendable to reach them you don't need to completely remove the front screws. You may need to remove the top grille screws to give more space but still tight to remove lamps, careful not to scratch bumper.

There' two fuses that protect the booster heater fuse 12. 25 amp is the power supply to the heater only, and fuse 3. 5 amp protects the air temperature switch circuit + other things.

Usually can be heard, or giving it a prod or poke sometimes activates it for a short time, they suffer with the brushes wearing out usually around the 90000 ml mark, it's primarily there to prevent heat build up when engines switched off but also assists flow through the rear compartment heater and correct operation of the diesel fired booster heater under the N/S/R passenger floor area. There's lots of info already on here about all these problems, use the search function (above right) and the FAQ's in the technical section. Not a very good start to your galaxy experience, these engines develop these faults and can go on unnoticed until motorway driving and more loads imposed on the engine, Don't be put off these are good cars, blame the previous owner for not sorting problems as they occured, now you have a shopping list of faults to put right. If you bought from a garage get straight back on to them as this could be expensive.

As said water pump is your first check, you can get to the back of the pump by removing thermostat housing (two bolts on bottom hose flange, impeller could be broken up, spinning on shaft or detached from shaft. Water pump replacement will involve removing timing belt so consider replacement of belt and idler/tensioner. There is also an electric circulating pump which assists circulation located behind the fuel filter, it should run all the time engines running and continue for 3 minutes after switch off.

Look at the size of it ;) :lol:

It's around the back of the engine immediately under the fuel/vacuum pump (tandem pump) you will need to remove the fuel filter and bracket and the scuttle tray (3bolts) the sender is colour coded make sure you get the same.

Hi Zorgman Knowing the bush/bearing & top spring seat how inaccessible they are I think you have no choice but to remove and inspect all the parts again, in the long term spraying oil and grease onto the bush won't do it any good.

ooh look another Mod haven't seen you on here Ivor for umm cant remember, well come to think of it I don't think I have seen you before :(

When it doesn't start what's the LED doing on the drivers door

I had version 1.0 and as far as I can remember it had about 7500 fault codes, I just paid for the full version but was told to download the latest version first 1.1 and noticed it has over 9000 fault codes hope that answers your question.

Going by all the info supplied you've been sold a pup. Am going to have a guess here and say the previous owner had overheating problems for some time probably caused by water pump impeller sheared or broken up so no circulation, may have been OK around town but motorway driving will show up with temperature going right up and probably loosing coolant. Fixing the pump problem quickly can avoid a blown head gasket but left it will get worse and now pumps been done but to late now the damage has been done. Did you buy from a garage or private sale as you should be taking car back for repair or money back as this could get quite expensive.

It would appear there are two sensors inside the ECU, the MAP sensor connected to the small hose inside the unit and an atmospheric sensor, problems with either would involve a new ECU but as you say it's running OK now so leave alone, quite possibly fault code was there even before filter change

Module is probably part of the central junction box.

I have an HTC desire paired with my 61 reg. Make sure radio's on. On your phone go to settings,wireless & networks, bluetooth settings look for Ford audio if its not there scan for devices, when the phone finds the car a four digit number will come up on the radio screen type this number into the box which should be visible on the phone but before clicking save make sure the check box is ticked otherwise you will have to repeat again

Are you saying the interior light went off while you had door/tailgate open? if so shut all doors and lock car with key then unlock this should reset the lights

Bulb failure module would depend on spec of car not all models have it, same with the clocks extra spec more wiring required to clocks.

I would check the wiring to the tailgate through the gaiter first, it's common for the wires to break in here causes all sorts of problems

Nearly there Bob, What year, Manual/Auto :rolleyes:

Hi Marc Can you confirm the water pump impeller is fixed to the pump shaft and not spinning on the shaft The booster heater doesn't need to fire up to make front heater work, it's there to warm up the whole system rapidly when ambient temperature is below 10 deg c approx that's of course if it's working. The electric pump (run on pump) should run all the time the engines running regardless of temperature and then continue for 3 minutes after switch off, it's primarily there to prevent heat build up (hot spots) in the engine after switch off and to assist circulation through the rear compartment heater and correct running of booster heater. Is there rapid pressure build up in the bottle also excess air bubbles appearing through the small return pipe to the bottle also unstable water level e,g does level rise or vanish from the bottle, any of these could be down to head gasket gasket or worst case cracked cylinder head

http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/65535