chrispb123456

The way you are decribing it is exactly where it is.

If they both gone wrong at the same time then possibly cluster or connection to cluster, if fault came at different times then possible faulty temp sensor or connector on cylinder head, should be able to confirm with VCDS lite if available. Fuel tank sensor is under the middle row of seats under inspection plate under carpet again could be corroded connector or faulty tank unit.

That is the heater fan resitor (Green)

Check fuse 32 for trip reset, may also do heater panel and clock

Are your brake lights actually working? if no then probably brake light switch.

Hi Angus Glad you found it M8, reasoning behind relay 109 was as they suffer from bad solder joints there is always a possibility of shorting inside the relay when this happens, and as said all pump controls N75, N18, MAF etc all run off engine ECU so any short on any of these will cause F 14 to blow. The wiring and insulation is known to be of poor quality and causes no end of problems especially in door and tailgete wiring. :lol:

Heater matrix leaking maybe, has the coolant level dropped in the bottle? or are you constantly topping up.

Hi Angus Thinking a few possibilities first of all Fuse 14 feeds your stop solenoid via the engine ECU which in turn is fed from relay 109 (second layer in fuse box), this is where I would look first as they are prone to bad solder joints, the second is the engine ECU which is behind the instrument cluster and have heard reports of chaffing on the loom caused by the cluster rubbing through the wiring. Am surprised you found the stop solenoid shorted to ground but not the cause of your non starting.

You probably have a short in the tailgate wiring gaiter between the high level brake light and the number plate lamp, common problem. Also dont forget to check heated screen, rear wiper, rear fog lights reverse lights.

Probably broken wiring in the body to door gaiter, common fault.

Still sounds like the pulley, how are you checking for freewheeling?

Sounds like flat battery?

The row of lines usually means no connection with the air temp sensor but as far as I know both displays use the same sensor (behind front lower grill near passenger side fog light) Try disconnecting battery for a few moments it may clear the fault.

The airbag system is NOT part of the MOT test, however the ABS warning light is tested for correct sequence when switching on ignition.

Not specifically does it need to be permanently live or off with ignition.

Thats the bulb failure working correctly, when the light stays on then you have a problem

The plug with the leads is the latest ceramic plug for that heater replacing 0100 226 228 and 0100 226 340. The wires replace the lead which will be removed to fit the new plug. Don't throw the old lead as a precaution as you cant to back to using the older type plug without it. You can search on ebay for the older plug on ebay or http://www.vwspares.co.uk/product_info.php?products_id=54

Hi BJ Can't agree more but an admin team that only appears once in a blue moon is not good either, Glen has never replied to PM's i've sent, donating has already been suggested but if the guy can't be bothered to reply what do you do, if someone has a problem they expect a reply at least in a few days how patient have you got to be. I know a lot of you guys have been on here a good few years and you feel dedicated to this site, I would probably feel the same but would also feel angry and frustrated when the sites left to run itself, its all about communication!! There are other sites out there as you well know that have excellent mod and admin teams, there's no reason why another cannot be started its not a competition at the end of the day its people's choice.

Glen don't reply to any post unless he started it, have lost interest in this forum now, as admin is non existent and I have now moved on to a new forum, but will still look in now and again. It's a shame as there are a good few knowledgeable members on like yourself here willing to help.

Glen don't reply to any post unless he started it, have lost interest in this forum now, as admin is non existent and I have now moved on to a new forum, but will still look in now and again. It's a shame as there are a good few knowledgeable members on like yourself here willing to help.

Hi Dave Think you need to remove and check combustion fan is running free and not seized, sounds like the fan had stopped while running

Hi Jimbo The combustion fan can get stuck or jammed by simply non use, hitting it could have freed the fan, the initial whooshing noise is the fan spinning up then the tapping is the dosing pump, no smoke means no flame or heat from glow plug. So as Greg said fit the new plug and try it, dont forget give them small screws a good soaking with penetrating oil. Good luck

Ahh ok, so If there were any codes that needed clearning how would one do it :), i dont think there are but if there were. When I first had my galaxy I took the heater off the car and took it into an Ebersp

The Mk1 is not wired for diagnostics on the booster heater, so if your "new" MK 2 heater needs codes clearing you cant do it

I don't know about a bodged repair, this problem has appeared before, yet another inbuilt defect in the wiring loom.