chrispb123456

It is the high resistance on the two black lead crimps that cause the meltdown in the first place, your new fuse box wont last very long if you leave it. Don't know how bad your crimps are,you may get away with soldering them with a blow lamp if not will need replacement

Little confused with your model/year MK1=1995-2000 MK2=2000-2006 auxiliary fusebox by the battery fitted to MK2 Was all services working prior to changing fusebox and did you replace the crimp terminal by soldering on new terminal or replacing cable.

Check the wiring in the rubber gaiter to the rear tailgate, the wires break and short together with the constant opening shutting of the door. You will need to cut out and splice in new cables, do not try and join cables in the gaiter they will only break again. This is a common problem it can also happen in the drivers door gaiter which causes problems with windows and central locking.

Welcome back nik, what's happened to the cat :)

I can't help you with garage pricing but would hazard a guess around £400 to £500 get some estimates in your local, if you give a location other members may be able to help that have had similar work done. You said you were ripped off with the heater matrix, do you know what's involved to change this as it's quite time consuming, incidentally the excess pressure from the HGF would be a contributory factor to the failure of the matrix.

After reading the results after the drive you have early stages of gasket failure, am guessing they done all there testing at idle with no load on engine, at the moment your only getting the problem when engine is under load this is why there test shows no fault. As for air lock in the system, combustion gasses being pushed into the system gets trapped until cap removed. Make sure head is checked for warp and cracks, will probably need skimming to be sure.

Primary purpose of the run on pump is to minimise hot spots around the engine after switch of which could lead to distortion and premature gasket failure, it also aids circulation through rear passenger heater and booster heater. As you have stated coolant is trickling/returning to the bottle then I would say your engine water pump is OK and yes you can feel the impeller through the thermostat housing. In normal circumstances these engines struggle to get to normal operating temperature, 5 + miles this time of year and longer in the winter if boosters not working, in the 8 years of owning a MK2 the cooling fans have never cut in, only with aircon on. So youv'e run engine from cold up to normal operating temperature with cap removed and no significant rise in level. Try this, with the level correct and cap fitted go for a drive motorway speed on return check level of coolant again there should be no significant rise, switch off and leave for 10 minutes, now carefully remove cap, there should be a small amount of pressure released and then a slight rise in level. See how you get on report back. ps how are they testing for head gasket failure?

Things to check. Engine water pump, suffers from detached impellor, you can check this by removing thermostat. Also check electric run on pump, switch ignition on without starting then switch off, it should run for 3 minutes then stop Run engine from cold with cap removed, does the coolant rise and spill over, look for bubbles rising in coolant bottle. Am guessing your aircon is not working as cooling fans would be running if it was. Do a search on here for overheating it's all been covered so many times You will be surprised how many members have had so called checks/tests for failed head gasket only to find not only was the gasket blown but the cylinder head needed refacing.

Hope this is clear enough for you :(

Should be closed against spring pressure

Am sure this has come up before, seem to remember could be blocked cat converter/exhaust system.

Its usual to change complete tensioner. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Auxiliary-Belt-Tensioner-Seat-Alhambra-Leon-Toledo-1-9-TDi-Dayco-/370545055459?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item564634d6e3#ht_2310wt_1163

You will only get out half of the fluid about 3.5 litres as the torque converter and valve chest will keep the rest, to get the fluid clean you need to drain and refill several times with a drive between changes to get the fluid looking reasonable.

As said more likely plastic wheel is egg shaped, unlikely anything wrong with crank pulley.

Yes you have ABS sensors on all four wheels, brake pad wear sensors you have one on N/S/Front wheel and one on O/S/Rear wheel.

That sounds a bit steep, I bought one for £300 fitted it myself then got mobile chap to vacuum and re- gas under £400 in total. If just the pump has seized and not the pulley then running in ECON will switch off the aircon system or unplug the lead to the aircon pump clutch. If the pulley/clutch has seized you can remove the pulley and fit a shorter belt.

Here it is. FordService Generate a FordService schedule Vehicle Conversions Body & Equipment Mounting Manual (BEMM) Parts Catalog www.fordecat.com Rescue Cards Download Rescue Cards Outstanding Field Service Actions No Campaign Message(s) found http://www.etis.ford.com/img/vehicle/1146.jpg * Illustration shows model only Galaxy, Diesel 1.9P, Satin Silver VIN Number: WF0GXXPSWGWJ57541 Registration Number: S349RAD First Registration Date: 01.08.1998 Registration Country: GB Primary Features Build Date: 27.05.1998 Vehicle Line: Galaxy Body Style: 5 Door Saloon Version: High Series Engine: Diesel 1.9P Transmission: 5-Speed Manual Transaxle - VXT75 Drive: RHD FWD Axle Ratio: 4.24 Emission: EEC 96 Car (EEC 1) Air Conditioning: Automatic Air Conditioning Territory: (+)"GB" Paint: Satin Silver Interior Colour: Biber Beige Interior Fabric: Artemis http://www.etis.ford.com/img/NavPanelArrowCloseDown-18x18.gif Minor Features Palmela Plant Build Power Front Windows One Touch Down Power Rear Window One Touch Down With Electric Rear Quarter Window With Rear Dark Tinted Glass With Heated Windscreen With Illuminated Sunvisor - Drivers With Illuminated Sunvisor-Passenger Roof Rack Without Crossbars Narrow B/Side Moulding-Body Colour With Pass Convex Elec/Heated Mirror Drivers Swivel Seat Passenger Swivel Seat Drv Seat Back Fold Down Table With Pass Seat Back Fold Down Table With RH Manual Lumbar Support With Drivers Heated Seat With Heated Passenger Seat 2nd Row Intergrtd Child Seat - No.2 With Driver 4 Way Mnl.Seat Adjuster With Leather Gear Shift Knob With Central Locking System With Radio Lock Control With Rear Window Wiper/Washer With Variable Intermittent Windscreen Wiper With Heated Washer Jet With Tonneau Cover Front Bumper Body Coloured Plastic Rear Bumper Body Coloured Plastic With Driver Air Bag With Passenger Air Bag 6J X 15" Steel Slave Wheel 215/55 HR x 16 Tyres With Engine Super Heating System With Leather Handbrake Grip 4 Wheel Anti-Lock Braking System With High Back Front Seats With Pollen Filter With Power Steering(Fixed Ratio) With Speed Control With Auxiliary Heater Dual Note Electric Horn With Engine Immobilizer - SCP With Radio Pre-Equipment Pack 2 With Column Stalk Radio Controls With Side Repeat Flashers With Front Fog Lamps With Illuminated Entry With Footwell Lights With Header Mounted Map Light With High Mounted Stop Lamp EAO Market Derivative There are more minor features for this vehicle, click to expand this list. ©Copyright, Ford Motor Company 1994 - 2012 | Privacy Policy

Doing fine Andy thanks for asking :)

Hi Andy You can't use Vagcom when checking Ford engines, but will work on the rest of the car Most people use the Elm 327 hand held scanner for the 2.0 & 2.3 Ford petrol engines.

Your engine model code is found on a sticker on top of the timing belt cover if it's still legible or on the front face of cylinder block, your looking for either; 1Z or AHU for a 90ps, or AFN for the 110. As for the MAF to be sure it's faulty you either need to substitute for a known good one, or better still record some live data and check for any logged fault codes with Vagcom. I'll take a guess and say you have a 110 as my old MK1 was diesel P on Ford Etis.

You only need the cheap lead to do every day stuff like this one. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/USB-409-1-KKL-VAG-COM-OBD-2-II-VW-AUDI-SKODA-SEAT-DIAGNOSTIC-Cable-UK-/261078372642?_trksid=p5197.m1992&_trkparms=aid%3D111000%26algo%3DREC.CURRENT%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D14%26meid%3D1623972996718590174%26pid%3D100015%26prg%3D1006%26rk%3D2%26#ht_8080wt_1163 Then dowload the free software from ross-tech and follow instructions. http://www.ross-tech.com/vcds-lite/download/index.html

Signature Click on your name (top right) then click my settings then on the left of that screen click on change signature, type in your car details and anything else you want, save changes job done Info then will be displayed as below every time you post.

Sparky is right 167 is fuel pump relay, 30 is engine power relay.

JBGT2 By using a laptop and purchasing a lead from ebay (under £10 you can do your own diagnostics without going to Fords or anywhere else. Do yourself a favour before you start dismantling things get yourself one of these, http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/USB-409-1-KKL-VAG-COM-OBD-2-II-VW-AUDI-SKODA-SEAT-DIAGNOSTIC-Cable-UK-/261078372642?pt=UK_Diagnostic_Tools_Equipment&hash=item3cc97bd122 Then download the free software from the Ross-Tech web site http://www.ross-tech.com/vcds-lite/download/index.html Scroll down to bottom of page click on the button download VCDS-Lite Release 1.1 Follow the installation instructions. If you get stuck on installation or have problems give a shout on here. Am not saying the Cat isn't blocked but there's other things more common to check before pulling off the exhaust.

Seatkid is right there is no DPF on the MK1 or MK2 but you do have a cat converter.