chrispb123456

Finding a suitable fluid apart from Ford dealer (£21 a litre) is difficult, I recently had my box overhauled, he said they use Dexron 3. A few years back I changed the fluid and used Mercon V which also suitable according to some sites, but if your only topping up you best use the dealer fluid. AG4 is 4 speed AG5 is 5 speed. Yours is a 5 speed look here http://www.etis.ford.com/vehicleSelection.do and enter your reg no. There's lots off info on here about changing/checking fluid do a search and also look in the FAQ's for more info. Be warned it may not be your problem but is worth trying at least.

That is not a relay it's socket that a relay could plug into, it has a bridging connector fitted already so no relay is required. What problem are you having.

Have a practice with one of the easier accessible ones, a small flat blade screwdriver will assist.

Did you inspect/change the small pipe inside the ECU when you was having problems before.

TIS disc if you PM me your email address I'll try and dig out the relevant bits.

S32 splice is on front passenger side L/H this is a joint between fuse 32, data link terminal 16, and instrument cluster.

It's floor level, yours being early 2001 then should be A pillar this only refers to the location

Have a check on the splices under the passenger seat or the A pillar changes made at 5/2001 there have been issues here before may not be your problem but worth a look.

Ahh an expensive mistake. Check make sure you have the correct grade of oil and level on box, chatter on tick over generally nothing to worry about if transmission is quiet at other times E.G no moaning groaning noises when lifting on and off the gas smooth gear change etc. Interesting you went for the solid conversion as other members have had problems when doing this or have been put off trying the solid flywheel.

Fitting new pads with worn discs will usually give rusty marks on discs that weren't there before the change even with the correct pads fitted, once the pads have bedded in the rust will go. It's usual for a disc to wear more at the inner edge, this can be checked with a micrometer. Possibly you should have also changed discs at the same time that would have avoided this problem.

Do you have 12 volts at fuse 30 to 32 contacts with ignition on, don't know if you have already tried this.

The filler cap does have a seal that needs to be broken off to get the filler cap off, do a search on here, all the info you need is here, but be warned you cannot drain all the fluid only half 3.5 litres as the rest will be in the converter and valve chest, so you would need to drain and refill several times with a drive between changes to get fresh fluid around the system baring in mind fluid from dealers is about £25 a liter so would be quite expensive although was assured by transmission repairer that dexron 3 is what they use after a rebuild and is quite a bit cheaper.

One like this is what you need. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VAG-COM-KKL-409-1-OBD2-Cable-car-diagnose-Auto-Scanner-Audi-VW-SEAT-Volkswagen-/320948506749?pt=UK_Diagnostic_Tools_Equipment&hash=item4aba05907d#ht_5039wt_1163

As said by silverbeast the sensor arrowed is the fuel temperature sensor and the fuel filter. The coolant temperature sensor is on the rear bulkhead side, impossible to see it without removing the fuel filter, this will give you room to get your hand down there it's held in with a horseshoe clip, they are colour coded so if your replacing it make sure its the same, you will lose a small amount of coolant when removed. Tip. When removing fuel filter leave the two pipes connected to the plastic connector (T piece) just pull off the wire clip and pull off the T piece from the filter then remove the other two pipes, the filter can now be removed with the bracket by pushing in the button at the rear of the bracket and slide upwards.

Hi Ya Is there any signs of coolant around the bottle area? apart from the normal checking hoses water pumps and radiator area, check those pipes under the car that run through the booster and rear heater especially by the rear wheel arch where the pipes disappear into the car. Does the heater still blow hot when requested? have you had water pump problems with this car? Have also PM'd you

Long shot here, have a look at the smaller wires on the battery terminals, you may have loosened/broke these while using jump leads also check the fuse box by the battery for meltdown, also check fuse 33 in the main fuse box in car.

I think you will find they are used for the optional load space cover. :) look under storage areas in the hand book.

Head gasket blown is also likely, the more it overheats the more likely hood of more damage. If you still have problems after checking pump and stat get the system pressure tested for combustion gases in cooling system.

The pipes that run through the O/S wheel arch suffer corrosion especially around the pipe clips these pipes are tucked away and are difficult to see without removing arch liner and bumper.

Also check for loss of glow plug warning when switching on ignition and flashing of door LED, could be relay 109 fault.

A good dunking in soluble degreaser, wash out with high pressure hose, then blow out with airline or leave to air dry.

Well done mate that's one for the record book, have thought that vent should be fitted with a proper filter, always give mine a wipe over now and again but there must be some that gets through unoticed :45:

How could you not change or check anyway that last peice of pipe in the ECU, that glow plug light must be exhausted, :45: come on you know you want to do it. :)

Waiting with anticipation lol

Just been looking at the Haynes manual and the car handbook, I had the feeling Seatkid was right when he said it should be a 380 bulb which is the two filiment Stop/Tail bulb 21/5 watt and guess what the car handbook is wrong it shows one brake light bulb 21watt and one tail light bulb 5 watt. I think most people are aware that there are two tail light bulbs per side, and have just double checked on my car. You should have 1 orange indicator bulb at the top the single contact tail light bulb 5watt 207 at the bottom nearest the tailgate and the double contact two filiment 21/5 380 on the outside edge this bulb only fits one way as the pins are offset. The new Haynes manual lists the correct bulbs but the illustration is not that clear. So to summarise you should have per side 1 X 380 21/5 watt 1 X 207 5 watt 1 Orange indicator 21 watt