chrispb123456

Agree 100% with SilverBeast the high resistance is between the cable and crimp not the crimp and fusebox. Am still confident this is a power supply problem, whether it's the 109 relay (easy fix) ignition switch, or wiring fault. Taking the cover off the 109 and looking at the circuit board it's usually pretty evident where the problem is, there's some pics somewhere on here showing the bad solder connections (dry joints) Soldering those large crimps is a must even if you replace the alternator cable solder it to save any further problems, done both cables on mine five or six years ago, caught just in time before melt down got away without replacing anything just cleaned up soldered and a dab of petroleum jelly job done. You will need a blow lamp with a small nozzle to do this as a soldering iron will not produce enough heat quick enough. If want to show video on here it's best to upload it to YOU TUBE then copy and paste the link

Rear fog light wiring enters the tailgate on the right side, so would say right hand side.

Just grey

Hi there Thinking about your car last night, when your cranking your car and gets to the point where it starts does it start instantly or does it try to catch intermittently eventually starting perhaps a slight misfire then clear and run properly as though there was air in the fuel system. A couple of things to try before buying more parts; 1. remove one of the fuel hoses connected directly to the fuel filter, turn on ignition, fuel should be ejected momentarily from the filter or the pipe depending which pipe removed just to confirm intank pump is working. 2. Fuse 14 powers relay 109 so check for 12 volts at the fuse, relay 109 has 5 terminals but only 3 are used, they are, Terminal 30 supply from fuse 14, Terminal 85 earth switched from ECU, Terminal 87 switched supply to ECU and also supply to fuse 34 so if fuse 34 is live with ignition on and continues to be live while cranking then 109 is working. Would also be good to check supply and ground wires at ECU, can see this is awkward as it's location behind battery and coolant bottle and the supply and ground wires are at the bottom of the plug. Thinking also about the rev counter does it settle down and work properly once engine has been running a while.

The D5WZ-F was fitted for the last two years of the Mk2 unfortunately the controller on this heater is usually the cause of the problem, it usually records a fault on the fuel pump or the fan motor but it's the controller that's causing the issue.

May be coincidence but worth cleaning up and soldering both those large cables

Do remember another member having problems with a crank sensor, his would only start with it disconnected Can you confirm Door LED is not flashing when cranking and also can you hear the fuel pump not to be confused by the run on pump in the engine compartment. Faulting DMF usually results in vibration and rattling, cant see a connection with G28 G40 or rev counter. Have you had a look at the engine ECU wiring plug

Engine speed sensor G28 is the crankshaft sensor Camshaft sensor is G40 The LED on the door you said went out as normal what about when you are cranking the engine Can you hear the momentary fuel pump squelch noise when first turning the key to the second position, Am cautious to say change relay 109, if you have a flashing LED or no pump noise I would try a relay

Am not sure of the price of a MAP sensor and although easy to change I would hold fire and check the turbo first as this is more common than a faulty MAP sensor. The cleaner is designed for the DIY motorist although I believe a blanking plate has to be put in temporarily to keep the cleaner in while it does it's job, only problem could be is removing the securing nuts on the exhaust downpipe as they can seize and shear the studs so if you or someone else is doing the job give the nuts a good soaking in penetrating fluid first.

Think you may be pushed to get a full length spanner on due to limited space, you can pull the lever down with one finger albeit the spring pressure is quite strong

I did a short video clip of the actuator rod while mine was off the car and I have used a spanner on the arm just for clarity, on the car this is more difficult as you will be working underneath the car and space is limited. To clean the turbo vanes properly it needs to be removed from car although other members have used a cleaner http://www.dieselturbocleaner.co.uk/

With what you just said about lack of coolant and a bad smell coming into the cabin I think your going to have problems, as this sounds like heater matrix is leaking. It may only be a slight leak but check around footwell area for wet carpets. Keep a close eye on the coolant level, another thing to check is the cabin/pollen filter, this tends to get forgotten and can get bunged up with dead leaves etc which can also smell

Yes there is a small filter in the end of the inlet pipe, just sits in the end when the larger nut is removed. As for under voltage and fan motor these will both record a fault code in the module if outside their limits so hopefully the filter just needs cleaning as said You said you cleaned the combustion chamber did you remove the chamber from the body or did you just swill out with thinners, reason I ask is they can get quite carboned up and you need to dig out the soot and carbon which you can't do without removing chamber.

There is a splice joint under the carpet on the passenger side, check out this joint iirc bunch of red and white wires.

Do you not mean 1300 unladen? my five foot trailer weighs more than 130. Getting back to your question only you can really answer that, does the car struggle to achieve 60MPH on the flat or slight inclines. If you can hold 60 without flooring the throttle then stay in sixth, if it starts losing it at the slightest pimple then drop to fifth before you lose momentum. The longer you can stay in sixth without labouring the engine the better fuel consumption you will get

1 Auxiliary or serpentine belt driving the alternator, power steering and aircon and can be seen driving alternator 1 Timing belt driving camshaft and water pump hidden inside plastic cover.

The MAP sensor on the MK2 AUY engine is directly fitted to the charge pressure pipe from the intercooler to the EGR valve. A18nkd is referring to a MK 1 Map sensor which is located inside the engine ECU which is located behind the instrument cluster. Negative Deviation is low or no boost pressure, if you cannot see anything obvious like disconnected or split pipework then the turbo vanes may be sticking, as well as the other items listed. See if you can move the turbo actuator rod through it's full travel without sticking

Do a search on the net for reconditioned turbo's as there are places out there that repair them to a high standard. turbo's are a precision piece of equipment and would be wary of scrap yard units.

How long has it been running at full speed? they can take up to 20-25 minutes to clear as you could have diesel laying in exhaust box, is it getting up to full speed? sounds like a jet engine when at full speed

You may also have a seized alternator clutch pulley, you can test this without removing anything. Through the slots in the alternator locate the fan blades, with a screwdriver you should be able to turn the blades fairly easy in a clockwise direction but not anticlockwise (viewed from pulley) if you cant move them either way the pulley has seized.

Expansion valve and evaporator faults are not so common, majority of leaks come from condenser/drier and pipework. Look carefully at the pipes where they pass through the wheel arch and chassis member, look at where the pipes are clipped they have a habit of corroding in or around the pipe clip. It's usual to pressure test the system with nitrogen as keep losing gas is expensive, then vacuum the system, if these show no leaks then refill with gas and oil. Did you use a dye leak detector as this shows up as a green liquid where a leak is suspected. Do you have rear roof vents as some people confuse the rear heater with rear aircon and then overfill the system.

Am not saying your relay is faulty but clicking relay does not mean it's OK, they suffer from dry joints on the circuit board, have a look at the board. Do a search on here there are some pics of what to look for.

Is the LED solid when cranking engine and does the glow plug light come on for a few seconds then go out, also check fuse 13 & 14

Overall the Galaxy is no worse on reliability than any other car, Iv'e had a Mk2 from a year old and has been virtually faultless apart from normal wear and tear items, recently turbo has been cleaned and auto box reconditioned, I don't think that's bad in a nearly ten year old car. Problem is if your buying any car with a few years and mileage on the clock you have to expect problems, someone that tells you they never put a spanner to a car is quite literally telling you they have never done anything to it, no service, oil changes etc, you buy that car you have all the problems what seemed like a cheap car turns out very expensive. The VW TDI's are very reliable but can have problems with age but certainly has better fuel consumption (average 35-50) the 2.3 Ford engine is also a well proven engine but not without it's faults. The thing with forums is you only hear about the bad points and it seems that every galaxy has the same faults but you don't hear about the ones without problems. End of the day whatever you fancy buying before you hand over the money take someone knowledgeable with you and give a bloody good test drive. Good luck.

Our Mk3 2.0TDCI 163ps Titanium is a Motability car as we needed to carry a mobility scooter and has a hoist in the back to lift it in and out. First impressions driving the car compared with Mk1 & 2 is the very firm ride and coupled with the poor road surfaces quite uncomfortable, having said that the car is now nine months old and 8500 mls on the clock and have grown to like it. I still drive the MK2 occasionally as I passed it on to my daughter but am glad to get back into the Mk3, we went for the six speed manual box in this one but next time will go for the powershift auto. Hoovering out is not so easy as Greg said because of the recesses nooks and crannies but we have ours done for us (long story) so not a problem for me. There's a few inches more knee room in the front which was a main feature for choosing a Galaxy, my wife tried getting in the new C max but the dash was rubbing her knees. MPG still not as good as the MK2 but it's getting better, time will tell averaging 38 mpg at the moment mixed driving. I wasn't convinced the Mk3 was a better car and I still think it's early days but it does grow on you, not had any problems with it but ask me in two years time I may have a different view then lol.