marinabrid

hi all this sticking trubo vane thing many folk suffer from, we are moving house soon and the car will only potter around a samll town to school and back and to tesco ,i know the missis wont walk inte rain either ! some one mentioned giving the turbo a run once a week t combat the carbon build up just wondered how far and fast to do this to hopefully keep it running. do you think say a 20 mile round trip at high revs would do the job

did someone say not to fill the top mounts wiht grease to stop water sitting in there ? got ours done and i filled em both with grease . will the grease destroy the mounting rubber then ?

friend of mine has had a fair few galaxys in his garage with this problem, it is usulaly the syncromesh on 3rd gear. gearbox out and recon fitted . quite a common problem . fingers crossed not happend here yet.

regarding these sticky vanes. all ours does is go to school and tesco all within 1 mile of house, lazy wife syndrome i call it, how far once a week would be enough to hopefully keep the vanes unstuck ?

try a hot air gun or hairdryer but dont get too close. ive used this in the past with great success, any remaining glue can be wiped off using wd40 or if its stubbirn you can buy something called sticky stuff remover form hardware type shops, this is fabulous stuff but around

well ive no idea on that one. if yours had the 2 wire blocks surely the other half of it is somewhere near the other ! or maye it was just tucked away and on your model serves no purpose. do your heater actually work ?

does anyone know why this problem occurs usually in high gears, ours is fine , revving thru the 3000-4000 rpm in 2 or 3rd gears but only when in 4th or 5th at the same rpm does the fault show again, and go into limp home. odd.

have reset and cleared the code and after driving the car for a while the indicaters work fine but the fault returns each time

hi all ferfering to this common problem of sticky turbo vanes, has anyone actually ever heard of this turbo claener product that someone sprayed in the air intake, ? wonder if it was carb cleaner. how can you clean the carbon off , surely the direct way to the turbo is by any air passing over it, so how can any chemical survive the heat to dissolve the carbon could a fuel additve help at all, it all seems a bit impossible to me,

ive never known this, but i could be wrong. if the gauge is wobbling change the sender unit to start with.

sorry bit dim, it cant be shortng to live 12v can it, any ideas on how to check the problem to cure it ? the winkers seems to work fine . thanks

hi all i was playiing around experimanting with the vag com i opened the central elecs pod and it showed this fault left indicator short to B+ intermittent. all the indicators work fine on the left side and with the hazard flasher as well. any ideas on this one ? what is the B+ meaning, is it a terminal on the light cluster maybe. thanks

we had this problem now and agagin, seems like a gremlin with no apparant cause, it comes and goes , no faults on the scan. we coated the fuel pipes where they go in an dout of the fuel filter with grease to block any air leaks. hasnt happened now for a fair while. i think its a common trait and nothing to worry about

hi all tdi 110 s reg 145,000 miles got a very slight hesitatation only in top gear around 2000 to 2500 rpm when you put foot down, doesnt seem to be there in lower gears, it went ito limp home , i switched off an don again and gave it some welly , seemed ok did a scan this morning, came up wiht 00575 intake manifold pressure and 17-00 control difference have found on the ross tech site the codes and explanations can some one explain though what the cause is, and what does control difference mean in easy to understand terms thanks

seem to have been removed even though there was 10 left, i ordered some but not got yet, hope it aint a con !

i had this problem last year , the dryer unit may need changing, it worked wonders for me. the fitter said that they were supposed to be swopped every 2 years. i believe this could be argued though after reading some threads. they are around

if anyone intrested , there someon eon ebay selling genuine front mats in grey and blue for

hello all 97 tdi, rear handbrake keeps sticking on. have fitted new cables and adjusted. i lubed the springs on the caliper that return the brake to off when you release the handbrake but after a week or so they start sticking again, so its off with the wheels, spray releasing fluid on the springs and ok for a week or so. anyone else had this problem or know the cause or maybe a long term lube as maybe the wd40 is drying out again. thanks

hi all anyone know the correct way to remove the mirror back casing ? is it just prise it open with a flat blade or something ? thanks

hi all has anyone out there got a rear brake caliper from a mk 1 ? i need the entire thing with the caliper carrier as well. ford want the best part of

go to any car spares shop and ask for an 017 number battery, that is the correct aftermarket fitting and usually depending on brand go from 88-92 a/h , the oe ford batteries dont have the aftermarket numbers on them. the av price for one is

is it your original unit ? if not then you may have the wrong one, i think though i could be wrong, the other wire block is for the models that have the timer in the dash to switch the unit on without the car engine running. if thats the case, then this wont work as you wont get any signals to the unit. i could be wrong.

i got the 096 in a 97 90hp tdi and it cranks it over fine. they hardly take any cranking , usually fires straight up. the next one up is the standard fit 017 which is a longer in lenght battery with 88-95 ah, got this on the other galaxy we have, doesnt seem to crank it any faster.

got our 98 s reg, 110 tdi 4 years ago and the pedal was heavy then with 120,000 mile son. it failed at 145,000 a few weeks ago and had a new chutch and cyl fitted, pedal is now light as a feather.

autodata disc gives the following reason for 00575 intake leak or blockage , maf sensor, turbo wastegate actuator/regulator valve, hoses interchanged or not connected or a fault in the wiring. hope this helps