marinabrid

just unclip the facia panal around the knobs and then a few screws and the 3 controls come loose. you may have to remove the radio to access the bottom screws.

not had any starting problems , touch wood. i think the glow plugs on these are only heated when very cold. i belive the engines start well without glowplug use , unless below freezig point. i could e wrong on that but i think i read it on here. if its just cranking over and not attemping to fire it could be worth changing the sensor, the tis says to drain the coolant but i just pulled out the clip and let it run , didnt lose much. then replace the sensor. its only held in by a bit of a metal u shape clip and an o ring seal. other than that ive heard the glowplug relay can cause problems. or mine wouldnt start when on eof the mini fuse was loose, check them as well that they are all pushed fully home.

on the mk 1 its in the coolant hose that comes form the cylinder head, usally got a yellow ring round it its a plug in 2 wire jobby, it sends info to ecu about the temp which then activates the glowplugs i think the mk 2 has the same arrangment but the thing is located at the back of the engine out of sight. whereas the mk 1 is easy to get at , in the middle just in fornt of glowplugs on cly head

think i explained wrong on the forum there are a lot of items where the driver cant select 3 or 4 gear, sometimes the cables have become loose form the coupling but i thought id read that on a lot , a bolt in the gearbox has sheared and the selector wont move. i think this is what im on about

didnt know they was coloured its usually a matter of going to local car shop and getting hose th esame diameter and swopping over

hi all pal of mine about to by an 04 galaxy or sharan alhambra the boy at car people told him that the galaxy still has a weak gearbox selector that can shear, however the sharan and seat had a different gearbox which didnt shear the bolt inside. anyone confirm this ? i thought the ford was the same engine gearbox and drive train as the vw seat . its a tdi 115 hes after. thanks all.

whers th ebest place to pass the wiring thru th ebulkhead ? thanks

also a good idea is to make it fire up now and again in the summer, sometimes they dont like re starting a a summer holiday. ours did this but a whack with a rubber mallett got it into life . anyone know the best place to thread the wire to the cabin, ive looked but cant see no grommets

sounds like a good idea, i was going to do it myself. it lloks like simply extending the wires to the cabin and putting a switch across where the sensor is. ours seems to run for a long time even when the temp is warm so it should also allow the heater to be shut down manually when its warm in the cabin

thanks for all advice, 4 days on it seems to have stopped juddering, wonder if this clutch will do 145,000 , the same.

yes oddly i went out to it 10 mins after geting to work and it startd fine, last year we had a similar problem with it, from hot or cold if you stopped the engine and tried to restart it within 5 mins , it would crank and crank and crank then fire up with a bellow of exhaust fumes. seems to have been ok till this morning on our older 90hp r reg the same thing happens now and again, its as though it runs out of fuel for about 20 seconds after stopping , then it refires, what is the warning buzzer though, i thought it was a flat battery warning, but they seem to crank over very fast.

hi all any clues on this one, 98 s reg tdi 110 came to work, stopped at shop, got in , enigine was normal temp, starter spun engine over fast but didnt start, then there was a warning buzzer noise after, i tried again and after about 20 seconds of cranking it fired up, i thought the buzzer was a sign of the battery getting low , but it cranked it over fast. thanks

if that is the reason then i will have to hope it beds in, the fitters were two diesel fitters at the bus depo who im pals with, they did it as a favour for

hi all, mk 1 s reg 98 tdi had new luk brand clutch and slave cyl fitted by very good mechanics after doing 145,000 fitters said its fine now, driving home form cold start i noticed some judder in 1st gear and a little in 2nd as got hotter after around 7 miles judder seemed to dissapear, do new clutches take a bit of time to bed in ? or why would it judder just when cold. i checked the roll restrcitor, seemed fine , all bolts ok,. thanks ,

oh, sugar !! the most obvious thing , so obviuos i forgot. i shall check today. thanks

hi all. just started today driving to work, sounds like a family of chimps are living somewhere on the front suspension, sounds like drivers side. not a knocking noise, its a chimp like noise !!! not had chance to look as its dark, any ideas as for noise ? stays same noise at any speed. also when rocking steering noise is there, t.r.e or ball joint im hoping . mk 1 tdi.

i find that its quicker to remove the 3 bolts and remove the scuttle panel , then you can get down to it.

the standard replacement should be a part no. 017, a big battery that fills the tray. these are 88-92 a/h depending on who made it. the 096 which is the next battery down is around 70a/h and ive had one of these fitted for 2 years now with no problems. the average price is around

sorry dont know what it looks like . some one mentioned it a short while ago , it may be worth trawling back thru this or the previous long thread to find the answer. id have though it similar to the wiper link one, a small round silver sensor , size of your thumb end, clipped in a bracket with two wire con block on it.

was it 3 years ago i asked a simple question. how time flies when your having fun with the booster heater.

as someone else discovered, some 02 model have the sensor fitted lower down behind the front fog light, no where near the wiper linkage

is the run on noise you here after switching off ,,the actual water run on pump,, rather than the booster heater itself, this runs a while after switching off to circulate coolant.

have you had it on a vag com to see if there any faults, ours did a similar thing when warm, the fault was logged as the throttle position sensor. got a new pedal unit for

i think you have been well diddled. it works out at

there is indeed an o ring seal in the plastic pipe where it bolts onto the block, be very very careful when removing as the plastic goes brittle and to my cost of a new pipe