GSMGuy

Firstly - Galman - 29k on fronts and still legal... Do you actually use the torque of your TDi lol... Secondly - T120, Reinforced tyres have a higher load rating - just look at the numbers on the sidewall, also as the sidewall is stiffer - they also exhibit much quicker steering responses under load, although at the sacrifice of some noise/comfort.. Mike

Andy... The code will be different if yours is a manual - I what is your current code? Paul, yep sorry m8, the 'bag has to come off to change either stalk - 5 min job though... Turn ign off before removal, and disconnect the battery - they after refit, turn ign on, and reconnect the battery - otherwise you will get an "airbag fault but it's easy enough to clear if you have the lead.... Oh, you do too lol!!! Mike

Andy, have done it on a 2003 model for the father in law, is yours a facelift model? Mike

Dave - use Imageshack.. http://www.imageshack.us/index.php and then insert the link in your post!! Mike

Not too sure Matt - But I think they have to be some sort of min spec for watchind a dvd on... Here are the mounts they come with.. http://img123.exs.cx/img123/3776/screenhunter0077wv.jpg Mike

This lot on special @ Makro from tomorrow.... May give it a whirl... Looks cheap enough.. http://img181.exs.cx/img181/1605/screenhunter0065yq.jpg + vat of course.. Mike

Question... When you changed the pads, did you use a windback tool and open the bleed nipples, or did you just press the pistons back into the calipers? Mike

On the subject of smoke, I hadn't noticed any from mine at all, until yesterday - stopped at lights and clouds of the white stuff lol - cyclist nex to me was not impressed!!! Anyway, it's still working fine, and no fault codes - Am happy to leave it that way.. Mike

Ahah!! So that's what that annoying noise is at motorway speeds!!! Been driving me nuts! Mike

Hijacker - I used to do it the same way, until I had major problems with a Calibra Turbo about 8 years ago - Turns out it had inverted several seals in the abs pump - ended up getting a 2nd hand one.. Not cheap! Mike

Cheers Hijacker - off to try now lol.. Where did you get the code from? I thought the later versions of VAG-COM were supposed to "suggest" codes or show a possible list... But I can't get it to on mine, although it did show a few on the instrument cluster of my brother's A4.. Mike

Lol Mike

Is it an auto? Mike

I stand corrected, apparently lol - there was a post on hera couple of weeks ago where someone said they had reset theirs with VAG-COM, so maybe you can do it either way? Mike

Scottie - what type/spec of fluid did you use, and has it made any difference to the 'box? I ask as ford don't seem to be too sure as to what fluid I need in my 2002 115 Tdi Auto (5 speed) Mike

AFAIK, this only works on the older Gals... I think you have to use VAG-COM on the newer ones.. Mike

Ivor is right - unless the pads are actually compressing, it will make no difference - However, diesels still have a servo, exactly the same as petrols - the difference is in the way it is "powered" Whereas a petrol engine is "throttled" and therefore has a plentiful vacuum in the inlet manifold, the diesels are not, so they have to generate the vacuum via a seperate vacuum pump. IMHO, a tiny leak of fluid in the system will cause the symptoms you are experiencing, as when the engine is off, you will have no servo assistance, this makes a BIG difference, to test it, simply turn off the engine and pump the pedal a couple of times to exhaust the vacuum. Then push the pedal as hard as you can, at the same time start the engine - The pedal should go down a good bit further, this is the servo working - if it goes to the floor, you have a leak! To confirm this, release and depress the pedal a good 20-30 times with the motor running,and then go and check the fluid level... HTH Mike

Yes, it will - If the heater fails to start for any reason, then after 5 attempts it will not try again until the fault codes are cleared. Mike

Nelse, fitting the stalk is a 1/2 hour job. Mechanically, all you have to do is remove the wheel and column shroud. Electrically you will need to run 3 wires from the new switch to the rear of the cluster - so that has to come out - another easy job, just 2 screws. I used 4 core alarm cable - the crimp on pins are actually already in the connectors! One other lead to earth and away you go!! Oh yep, need it recodeing in VAG-COM too. Mike

Just get yourself an aftermarket alarm fitted with a c/l output. You may need to put an actuator motor in the drivers door if it does not have one though - To chek, see if locking and unlocking the PASSENGER door with the key works the drivers door - if it does, then you just need the alarm connecting, if it doesn't then you need an actuator in the drivers door too. The reason they sometimes don't fit them in the drivers' door is cost, and the fact that if you have Std locking, ie not remote, then 99% of the time ytou will unlock it via the driver's side anyway. Remote locking therefore needs a way of operating the drivers' door. HTH Mike

Andrew, the tailgate is slightly different, in that it doesn't actually lock, just a relay opens to prevent the electrically operated tailgate release from opening with the handle for the set time period - I think 30 secs after you turn off the ign. Mike

Paul, check your seat belt bucles to see if they have any wiring coming from them... If they do, then it may be possible.. Mike

Does anyone have a Gal (or other) that has auto locking on it, ie when you either start the engine, or get over 6mph it locks the doors?? Really miss this function, as have to keep remembering to lock the doors - If anyone does, and they have VAG-COM, any chance of a screenshot of the controller with the type and s/w coding? Mike

Due to my brother changing his car, we have for sale a 4 month old GENUINE SPEEDBUSTER tuning module for the 130 PD engine - It also works on the 115. Perfomance gains are impresssive! On the 130... Goes from 130ps to 160ps Torque goes from 310nm to 350nm On the 115... Goes from 115ps to 143ps Torque goes from 310nm to 380nm These are the minimum figures, as with the serial lead you can adjust all of the parameters such as extra fuel, rev range etc Remember this is not cheap and cheerful resistor type mod... Paid

Firstly,, Here we go, here we go...... 2nd, have a look at THIS thread, I changed the plug in mine recently and it's fine now 3rd, If you are in Warrington, I'm only in Aintree and don't mind running a diagnostic for you... As Paul says, it may not be the plug! If you are interested, feel free to PM me.. Mike