GSMGuy

Make sure all the pipes for the PAS are correctly fixed to their mounting points, and not touching any bodywork as this will transmit the vibrations (although they are more than likely just the pulsing of the fluid) As a try at narrowing it down, get someone to hold it on lock as you are under the bonnet and feel the pipes and pump for vibration. Mike

If you can hear the noise and see the smoke... It's working fine!! Mike

It's not the bulbs - it's the switch sticking... The brake light switch is actually 2 seperate switches in one - the 1st simply sontrols the lights and the second is linked to the ecu/cruise, and in the case of my Auto, the selector inhibitor.. I had a fault where 1/2 of the switch was working - it let me move out of Park, but no brake lights - so as soon as I moved off the ecu registered a fault (no cruise either) and lights the lamp. Cured mine by spraying with WD40 and operating it fully with my fingers to free it off.. Mike

Yes m8, the water is piped along metal tubes under the car to a similar matrix in the rear unit - Possible causes of the front being hot and the rear being cold.. Is the blower working ok in the rear? If so possible the temp control flap is stuck in the cold position? Esp if it's been leftr that way for 6 months... Also feel both the pipes under the car when hot, if one is cold you may have an airlock.. HTH Mike

The revs raising is because as you turn the wheel, it puts a load on the PAS pump which causes the engine to slow, the ECU picks this up and increases the idle speed. Not sure on the vibes though.. Mike

Waine, there is a rlay controlling the motor - it clear on the TIS disk.. Mike

Shazza, I have the same problem with mine - under acceleration, between about 1500-2000 rpm, most noticeable in 4th, but if you put it in "manual" it does it at the same engine speed in all the gears... Wonder if it could be an inner driveshaft joint, as the motor is producing a hell of a lot of torque in that rev range?? Mike

This any good? http://img100.exs.cx/img100/9014/screenhunter0010nt.jpg Mike

I thought No 1 was "The cold ones with those Aux heater blues??" Mike

Do a search on Ebay matey... Welcome btw. :o Mike

Hi mate - surely this is a warranty prob if your car is 2003? Mike

Martin, try getting in your Gal when it's freezing and then driving it in town for 10 miles before it gets hot - then you'll know what all the fuss is about!!!! Mike

As MM said, I'd agree that the sensor for the aux heater will be onboard - makes more sense, as the coolant will obviously lose a LOT of heat in the pipework under the vehicle, esp during the conditions the aux heater fires up under, ie less than 10 deg outsode temp, and with all that windchill... Windchill is the biggie here, my brother and I went out on our motorbikes for the day yesterday, temps around 6 deg, but at speed we felt like we were getting frostbite in the fingers... Mike

That's the one!! You can also select the Aux heater, then Output tests - to turn on the blower and then the fuel pump to make sure they are working. Mike

Martin, how old is your car? Mine's a 03/2002 and althogh the top cover bolts were a little rusty, all of them came out ok - an when I reasssembled it, I coated them all with some copper grease... You nerer know.. Mike

And the funny thing??? Depending on the year - VR6 more than likely has an aux heater, but it's prob not working, as the engine draws so much fuel through the pipes, there is none left for the heater!!! :blink: Mike

You don't - once it has failed 3 times, it sets the flag for the error code which prevents it trying - Just clear the error code and it will try and ignite again, until it fails 3 times. Mike

Martin - depends on the s/w and hardware they use - if it's just a simple code reader, then possibly not - if it's similar to VAG-COM then yes.. Mike

Martin, after 3 attempts, it logs a fault code and won't try and fire up again. So if you have a duff glowplug and replace it yourself, then - yes the fault code has to be cleared before it will try and fire up again.. - One more reason I bought an interface and VAG-COM, and another

Lol - Not another one.... Welcome new member!!! Mike

I knew a plug was available from VW - but the parts guy told me he had no info other than it was for models upto and incl 2000. I have a feeling it may be a Beru plug - But as he had to order it and wanted paying 1st, I wasn't prepared to risk it being wrong. The original Beru part No above has been superceeded by another part No which I have somewhere - it's trade catalogue ref is GH001. Possible reasons for you not finding a xref is that apparently the main app for this plug is industrial uses... HTH Mike

Erm.... THIS POST...... Mike

You can either check that it isn't open circuit with the meter, or Jusst connect it to the battery, and it should heat up and glow red hot in less than about 3 seconds, with it being an 8v plug. Mike

Schucks - I'm blushing now... I try my best ^_^ Mike

Pic would be good, but @