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Everything posted by GSMGuy
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Velcrohead, if you bank online, a bill payment is free to send, and takes 3 working days - also you can go into your local branch of my bank and pay cash in... Quickest way really.. The lamps should last the life of the car, as long as they don't get damaged - they have a life of around 3000 hours, compared to 350 hours for a H1 bulb, and less for a H4 (run at higher temps due to extra filament).. With H4, there are 2 options.. There is a slight cost difference between the 2 options, but the most important thing is that in order to use one of the options, you need to have a space of 60mm directly behind the bulb.. You'll see why in the pics.. The options are.. HID dipped beam, and halogen main.. (cheapest, no extra space needed) HID Dual beam dipped AND main!! (Looks best, performs best, costs a bit more, and you need the space..) Here's a pic of the 1st option.. http://img218.exs.cx/img218/5569/BulbsforH4kits025.jpg And the 2nd.. http://img218.exs.cx/img218/9210/H4DualBulbLength.jpg The reason for the longer unit in the 2nd option, is that it houses a solenoid that actually alters the positional relationship of the lam and the shield you can also see, this gives the same action as having 2 seperate elements, as in a H4 bulb, and one of them being shielded for dipper beam. Mike Mike
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The bulb is fixed to a custom base - not like the remanufactured ones you can get from Ebay - I have seen them epoxy resin bonded to the remains of an old bulb before now - heres some pictures I have just taken on an H7 in one of my kits.. http://img175.exs.cx/img175/6969/DSC03154.jpg http://img175.exs.cx/img175/5346/DSC03153.jpg http://img175.exs.cx/img175/9486/DSC03155.jpg http://img175.exs.cx/img175/6396/DSC03152.jpg As you can see, the quality is excellent - we looked at loads of inferior stuff before we went ahead ant took the plunge, so to speak.. Also, not sure about the postage, I know it costs
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Looks like a Bu**ered MAF sensor m8 - possibly causing the other errors too, as the signls will be out of range.. Mike
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Changing The Dipped Beam Bulb
GSMGuy replied to dfh101's topic in Ford Galaxy Technical Section MK I MK II
Don't know if you have a mk1 or mk2 but on my mk 2 it's a 5 min job to change the H7's (dipped) on wither side WITHOUT removing the unit. Mike -
Hmm, must be an acoustic trick, as the pump is definately clipped to part of the chassis on the offside by the side of the tank.. Wierd.. Mike
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Well, actually, the booster heater makes a whooshing sound, a bit like a small jet turbine - The ticking is the fuel metering pump - if anyone (else) is old enough to remember, it sounds quite like the old SU electric petrol pumps fitted to cars in the 60's and 70's.... It SHOULD be coming from the area just underneath the right seat in the middle row, and not from the dash area though.. HTH Mike
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Photos of a kit.. H7 one actually - same ballasts etc, just different lamps. http://img162.exs.cx/img162/1231/DSC03144.jpg http://img162.exs.cx/img162/8927/DSC03145.jpg H4 is slightly different as you can get a Bi Xenon, which actually moves a relfector over the lamp so you get HID dipped and main! but you need 60mm clearance behind the headlamp.. Mike
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Velcrohead, cheque is fine, as soon as it clears the kit is sent for next day delivery - What model gal do you have? Mike
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Here we go... http://img232.exs.cx/img232/2791/DSC03214.jpg http://img232.exs.cx/img232/1163/DSC03213.jpg http://img232.exs.cx/img232/839/DSC03220.jpg http://img232.exs.cx/img232/1864/DSC03219.jpg http://img232.exs.cx/img232/3677/DSC03218.jpg http://img232.exs.cx/img232/5646/DSC03217.jpg http://img232.exs.cx/img232/5854/DSC03215.jpg Enough lol.. Mike
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More Info On Vag Dtcs / Fault Codes
GSMGuy replied to Jeff115's topic in Ford Galaxy Technical Section MK I MK II
Jeff, the main blower can be seen in this pic I took when replacing my glow plug, http://img138.exs.cx/img138/6349/dsc022944tn.jpg The impellar is the brown thing on top of the unit, and you can just see the motor below - I'd be seriously tempted to strip it and make sure it isn't just jammed by a bit of debris, or seized through lack of use, in which case, giving it a good soak of WD40 and a bit of a gentle twist may just help... nothing to lose and all that! Mike -
Lol @ VR6!! Will wait until it's a bit darker later on and take a couple more - only takes a min to swap the lamp.. Mike
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Right, not trying to advertise here, but I have done a deal with the supplier of these kits to get them trade... 2x H7, H4 or H1 lamps with all the wiring and ballasts with integrated ignitors. The quality of the kit is superb, I hav had one on my Gal for about 3 months, and have had them fitted to my parents' and brother & sisters' car all are well impressed.. They come with 8000k colour temp bulbs, but can be supplied with any other colour temp at no additional cost. Chromedome has a set winging it's way to him.. So if he'd care to make any comments... As I said, not here to make a proofit from them, but if I can supply them cheaper, then I will!! Have attached 2 pics of my own headlights taken the other day, IN BRIGHT SUNLIGHT!! Was checking out the space for the ballasts behind the lamp (yes there's plenty of room) and took the opportunity to put one of the "old" Osram silver star bulbs in for comparison... Can you tell which is which?? http://img92.exs.cx/img92/9224/hid8000k4ns.jpg http://img92.exs.cx/img92/2305/hid8000k22bg.jpg Mike
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They also increased the width of the belt by 5mm on the PD motors to help take the strain... This is why it is VITAL to make sure you get the right belt if changing it yourself, and probably better to supply the CORRECT belt yourself if getting it changed anywhere other than a main dealer (yes, I am assuming they know the difference!!!) Mike
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Hello!! VAG-COM is just the software, the lead is the expensive bit, but if you go for a genuine or OEM "dongle" equipped lead, you save the $99 registration for VAG-COM, I got mine from HERE as did a few others on here.. Mike
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You sure it's not the synchro hubs in the gearbox spinning up and down? M?ike
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Hi, and welcome. Yes you are correct that the panels (on the later galaxy) are programmable witht eh correct engine/transmission and options.. This is how I managed to turn on things like the trip computer and low washer fluid warning in my 2002 Gal, any advice on the codes, just ask.. Mike
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OIL TYPE USED - TDI ONLY
GSMGuy replied to jkspoff's topic in Ford Galaxy Technical Section MK I MK II
I think Magnatec is fine for the older TDi, but it does not meet the spec for the PD, 505.02 Mike -
OIL TYPE USED - TDI ONLY
GSMGuy replied to jkspoff's topic in Ford Galaxy Technical Section MK I MK II
If you have a PD, ie 115/130, the correct oil is VITAL! Spec 505.02 IIRC.... Millers XFE PD for me! Mike -
Bigjeeze, that is one EXPENSIVE site... Mike
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More Info On Vag Dtcs / Fault Codes
GSMGuy replied to Jeff115's topic in Ford Galaxy Technical Section MK I MK II
No log in needed m8. Mike -
Tomtom Go m8 - I've had a few, Garmin, pocket pc based stuff and the like, and the Go is LOUD, accurate and Tomtom's 3d maps are the best. Plus it's a one box system, and even has it's own internal battery so no wires needed!!! Mike
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Hi, Although you need to use the diagnostic to actually see the temp, you can do it without.. Start the engine from cold and allow to run for 10 mins, slowly move the selector frm P through all the positions, pausing for a couple of seconds on each, and then back to P. The fluid level has to be above 35 degrees to allow for expansion, so I would wit until the engine reaches full working temp.. Get underneath the car, which must be level, remove the undertray and locate the test plug - it is a 8 mm allen keyu, when you undo it, fluid should spill out, not a lot, just enough to indicate it is up to the required level. If none comes out, it needs topping up!! HTH Mike
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Just had a look at mine and they are adjustable - there is a small protrusion, like a little lever to the side of the jet, this can be moved up or down adjusting the angle, and hence the postion of the spray on the screen.. Mike
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More Info On Vag Dtcs / Fault Codes
GSMGuy replied to Jeff115's topic in Ford Galaxy Technical Section MK I MK II
Jeff, sounds like the blower motor could be seized - try going in to output test (whilst in module 18, Aux heatrer) and then it will cycle through Combustion blower, and metering pump - you should hear both working. I had the same faul on my HVAC, cleared it when I got the car, and it has not returned - I think it is related to the air distribution flap - as have found that if, after I start the car, I move it to the dash vents only position for a couple of seconds, and then to wherever I want - footwell etc - It works much better than just leaving it set there - I think it repositions itself every time you start.. Give it a go, solved my problem of cold feet!! Mike