GSMGuy

In a word... Sticky flaps! Check for movement at each end of the control cable... Erm nope, just had a quick TIS and all the blend doors are controlled by motors on your car - could possibly be a poor connection/earth? Mike

My auto is about 30mph/'000 so @ 70 it's 2500rpm, not much difference there - but you have to take into account converter slip/loss and the fact that auto's accelerate differently due to this - ie they sustain a higher initial revs and the transmission/converter speeds the car up to match. Mike

Gritrash - did you get it all sorted in the end?? Mike

Hmm, had car a week, all ok - it's a 2002 TDi 115 Zetec Auto. Last night, after visiting relatives, noticed a promounced jerk when slotting into Drive, and then the change from 1st to 2nd was very sharp and jerk, likewise the rest of the changes, AND it would not go into 5th... Even using the Tiptronic, it was still snatchy and no 5th... So limped home (10miles) @ 40mph... This morning, all seems fine?? No messages or fault lights... (there were none last night either) So, do I wait and see if it happens again? Or get in touch with the (independant, but Vreputable) dealer? Also - Does anyone know where I can get the required lead and software to connect to the OBD?? Cheers Mike

Had a good look on TIS, and it looks feasibly possible - but remember, the control panel for the Aux heating is part of the digital clock, not the standard dash mount one - So I would think that any relevant wiring would be in the headlining above the mirror, rather than behind the clock... Mike

Honda parts?? On the subject of tyrefix foams... I used to work at a tyre place, and according to Michelin... As long as the inside of the tyre is cleaned properly, using a solvent and all traces removed - it is not a problem to repair a puncture.. On another note, in my tyres on my Motorbike, I have something called Ultraseal, which is BMW and TUV approved - It's a liquid to actually prevent punctures! Don't know the ins and outs of it, but @

My Gal DEFINATELY has an electric pump in the heater line under the bonnet, I only know because after switching the engine off, I was puzzled by the noise it make, so set about locating it - it is just behind and to the left of the battery housing - if the engine has just beenstopped, you should be able to hear and feel it in operation.... Surely this would suffice as a circ pump if the aux heater could be fired up via a switch/timer arrangement - I am sure that the lack of a 2nd battery would not be a prob if it was only running for say 30 mins... Most prob though, the wiring and relay for that add battery would be easy to add??? And then it would charge whilst the enine was running - had a similar relay setup on a couple of mobile shops I owned about 12 years ago!! Mike

MM, don't think you need a 12v pump, as the circuit already contains one that, afaik - will work correctly if wired correctly - I think the safest way to do this is to try and obtain the genuine ford/vag programmer - commonly known as the "digital clock" that goes in the headlining above the mirror - this has the option for auto setting the heater to come! Mike

Right - just got back from Sheffield, and brimmed the tank around the corner from my house, as I did on Mon - Have done 425 miles, and used a whopping 66.33 Litres of BP ultimate diesel, or 14.61 gallons - result? A disappointing 29.09 mpg :lol: Half of the 425 miles was tiwn driving, and the rest 80-90 motorway, still seems poor to me, I thought my 2.0HDi Picasso drank the stuff @35mpg average - but this is worse... Any comments? Mike

Corskey - what colour is it, and do you have the fixings?? Mike

Hmm, as a new Gal owner - Tdi 115 Auto 2002, with "chip" I was just about to comment... I thought my old 2003 Picasso 2.0HDi was a gas guzzler - trip comp averaged 34mpg, mostly town driving, and got about 480 miles per tank of

Gary, I think the brake switch problem may be the cause of your problem... As the TDi has dBW (drive by wire) it is part of the programming that is the brake pedal is pressed, then the power is cut - try sitting with your car running in neutral/park, and accelerate the engine to 2500 rpm - now with your left foot, press the brake pedal, the revs should drop to idle, which is correct.. Now, if the brake switch is sending dodgy info whils driving, this may cause the symptoms you describe?? Mike

And do ll of the trim levels of the facelifted gal share the same instrument cluster? As I am nervously awaiting my TIS DVD to see if this can be done.. Mike

Is it a 115 PD? as there have been a few cases of erratic light throttle operation.. Mike

The filler dipstick for the auto box on the TDi 115 - Have scoured the boot and had a good look under the bonnet, but no luck :P Mike

I have just ordered the 2004 TIS DVD version, which apparently has a lot more info, and covers a lot more cars? Will let you know when I get it... Mike

Looks like I'm gonna be busy playing tomorrow then... Cheers :P Mike

Hmm. prepared to have a bash at the German - but does anyone know where the link is, 'cause I can't find it :blink: Mike

Re this heater, I have just taken delivery of my 02/02 115TDi Auto, and it has the control above the rear ns door, also, have been underneath and the heater is plain to see, along with it's exhaust... Question is, what temp does it come into play at, ie at what temp does it start to burn fuel etc - I ask as it's not been below about 15 degrees since I got the car, and it does blow hot air etc, but only once the coolant hoses are hot.. Not heard the infamous sound or smelt the hot aroma yet... Mike

I have read and digested, in fact have even gone and done it... The "retro-fit cruise items" And mightily impressed I am too, as is my cruise enabled Gal.. However, it got me tinking... What about the trip computer - does anyone know if it is all part of the ECU, and just needs the correct controls, and enabling via the diagnostic socket??? This is the only other item I miss from my Picasso - Citroen can keep the noisy, slow thirsty engine and the crap build quality lol.. :blink: Mike

Gary, I think ALL turbochargers have a wastegate, it's a safety feature to stop you blowing up the motor with too much boost! Mike

I thought all of the newer cars had dbw or drive by wire? which renders all of this vacuum pipe stuff obolete... To see if your car is DBW, just sit in in with it running in neutral and rev it to2000 rpm, the put your other foot on the brake... if the revs die it is definately DBW and the cruise is controlled directly via the ECU. I am familiar with this, as just retro fitted cruise to my 02 Tdi 115 Auto, and all I had to do was buy the correct stalk and a small loom (

Nice one... lol :o Mike