GSMGuy

The drilling of the discs DOES make a big difference as it allows the escape of gases created between the pad and disc, which ordinarily are trapped. If you get thenm slotted, this also helps bty preventing pad glaxe. I had some fitted to my 306 Gti-6 and the difference was astonishing, even on the standard pads... Mike

FYI, I am talking to the supplier of mine at the mo, with a view to obtaining a better price.... If anyone is interested?? Mike

Richmond - tigtening help because there is usually a little more "give" in the components, and any movement will break the corrosion, allowing the oil to penetrate further. Will, You can get six sided ring spanners, but I think you will probably need a cranked one? Mike

Thought so... :rolleyes: Now where did I put that V5 after the plate transfer lol - Will let ya all know how it went! Mike

I would - just a bit confused as to what that massive thing on the sump is... Only noticed it tonight whilst changing the ATF fluid... Will have a look tomorrow on the old TIS... Lol - Off to bed now m8 - catch ya soon! Mike

Graham - his H7 kit is here.... http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vie...ssPageName=WDVW Happy to recommend him, very good service, and good guarantee! Mike

And what a waste of time that seatbelt reminder is lol... Mike

Hijacker - does this have anything to do with the large "sensor" on the bottom of the sump? Does it detect oil viscosity or something? Mike

Jeff, a lot of manual boxes run ATF nowadays, apparently it gives a smoother acton, and it is an oil after all.... The EP in gear oil stands for Extreme Pressure, an additive that gives a very high shearing and pressure resistance, but which can actuall damage some manual boxes.. Mike

Topbloke - sorry, you are incorrect UK construction and use regs state that vehicles fitted with High Intensity Discharge lights shall have an automatic levelling system AND a lamp wash sytem fitted in order to comply. A lot of MOT testers are passing aftermarket kits due to sheer ignorance of the regs - however, I have fitted to my gal 4 HID lamps - yep 2xH7 and 2xH1 for the mains - My xmas pressie from my other half!!!! The difference is AWESOME!!! They have literally turned night into day - I opted for the 8000K colour, and I really think they are the best choice - I got quality kit - Aluminium cased ballasts with integrated starter, and the wiring and fitting could not have been easier.. I got mine from Ebay after lengthy talks with the seller who sells a lot of them and gives a full 7 day moneyback guarantee, he will also swap the 8000k bulbs for any other colr FOC if you prefer, even after installation!! If anyone wants his details, I will post them here if there are no objections.. Anyway, the main point of my post is... My Gal is 3 years old on the 3rd of Mar - So she is booked in for her first MOT tomorrow, so I can get 13 months on it... Let's see what Bi-Xenons do to affect this.... Mike

Jeff, just for info, once you hook it up to VAG-COM, you can actually ee what temps the sensors are reporting, and also you can turn on the combustion blower and fuel pump to see if they work... Glad to be of help! Mike

I reckon you'll struggle for access with a chisel - Get some Plusgas - not that crap WD40, and give it a GOOD soaking, preferably overnight by soaking a cloth in it, and leaking it draped over - Give it a good wire brushing 1st!! Then get a good quality SIX SIDED socket - NOT a 12 sided one, and a good long breaker bar.... This method has worked wonders for me over the years.... Mike

Jeff.... There are 2 external temperature sensors - the one for the Aux heater is clipped to one of the fixed arms on the wiper mechanism, roughly in line with the centre of the battery - you can get at it if you are nimble, and pull the clip and sensor away and out where you can get at it - I did this before I got my VAG-COM lead, in order to test it.. I did 2 tests - 1st, I connected a continuity tester to the sensor, and pushed it into a small tub of ice cream - sure enough after 30 sec or so the beeper went off, so that was working! I then bridged the plug with a wire, and started up the engine from cold and ran for 15 mins, this failed to start my heater, but I subsequently found that the plug was faulty.. The 2nd sensor is just behind the lower grille, just to the left of the NS fog light, if you are kneeling in front of the car. This one gives you the temp/ice warning and also the outside temp for the a/c, you can just reach up and detach it from behind.. The Booster IS controlled via the ECU, after 5 failed attempts to start it, it will log the fault and not try again until the fault is cleared.. I presume it's a safety thing.. Imagine the danger if it kept pumping in diesel without burning it.. It would come out of the exhaust and almost definately contaminate the rear tyres...... Dangerous!!! Hope all this helps- if you are local to me (MERSEYSIDE) I am happy to run a diagnostic for you.. Mike

IIRC, the box should be running atf and NOT Hypoid or traditional gear oil... Mike

Can anyone correctly tell me what the correct ATF is for my 2002 5spd Tdi auto - Jatco box, everywhere you look there is different info.... Mike

I the Uk sall HID systems have to have automatic levelling AND washers! It's down to the MOT inspector to check on these, but there are many reports of it not being mentioned come test time... Mike

Andy - hopefully this will make it clearer... http://img128.exs.cx/img128/3527/screenhunter0018kn.jpg To calculate the 1st 2 nnumbers for the recode, just add TOGETHER the required options ie for trip it is 08, for trip and washer fluid it is 12 mine is 13 as I have trip, washer and brake lining wear.. will change it to 15 when I get a min to add seatbelt warning.. HTH Mike

JB - I agree with you re Bill.. But back to the subject lol.. The switch for the parkassist is a "push to make" it doesn't latch, so maybe yau are nudging it changing from 1st to reverse, or vice vera? I have no idea how close your knuckles would come to the switch, as I have an auto.. Don't know if disconnecting the front would work, or just stop the whole lot from working - BUT, you can adjust the volume and frequency of the beeps independantly for the front and rear.. Although you'll ned a VAG tool or VAG-COM but theoretically you could turn the sound from the front ones off.. Mine occasionally goes constant on the back ones - usually if it is raining heavily, I presumethe water just flows down the tailgate and over the sensors, confusing matters - Once the rain stops, they are fine - Also do you have a tobar, as this can cause probs, I swapped mine for a longer necked one which has cured the problem, but I have heard the placement of the electrical sockets can cause an obstruction too.. HTH Mike

Ian - you should have the ice warning! Mike

Also Paul - ther is an earth wire that is the feed to the trip computer switch - it goeds to a bolt just to the right of the fusebox - maybe it's loose? If not, you can pull the back cover to the stalk off and clearly see the actual switch innards and operation - it's just a few springy metal strips that move when you push the buttons - nothing falls out lol.. Mike

Ian, it can be turned on in conjunction with the trip computer and bulb failure warning, via VAG-COM - but you will need to fit the level sensor switch. Personally I'd recommend anyone with a Zetec to go the whole hog and do the cruise at the same time!! Mike

I have had my gal for 4 months now, and the airbag has been off 4 times.... not had a problem by following the Airbag procedure in the TIS.. Mike

Thankyou VR6 - I rest my case lol Mike

Lol... Tell him to lock it twice and kill the ultrasonics!! Mike

And..... Mike