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GSMGuy

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Everything posted by GSMGuy

  1. I would think so - but to be sure, just look up under the sill by the N/S/R door - you should be able to see the intake and exhaust pipes - the exhaust is like that of a tiny scooter or lawnmower.. http://img138.exs.cx/img138/8237/screenhunter0025tu.jpg Mike
  2. Right for all you lot having probs with the heater, I'd advise either a diagnostic to pinpoint - or take it out and test the glowplug!! I have spoken to the German manufacturers of the units who also recon them, they advise that a high percentage are returned with a single fault... Ie the glow plug.. Here's the little bugger - excuse the dirty hands! http://img138.exs.cx/img138/5459/dsc022880xf.jpg It takes all of 10 mins to remove the booster heater, and you DO NOT have to remove the coolant pipes, as you can strip it on the floor whilst they are still attached.. Just disconnect the wiring plug and pull of the fuel hose! Anyone who tells you otherwise (prob Frauds) is full of B/S - I've done it twice now, first to confirm the glow plug was dead, (it was) and 2nd to replace it with the (according to Fraud) "unavailable as a seperate part, you'll be needing a complete unit" replacement.. Mine now works like a treat! Here's the heater on the floor still attached to the car: http://img145.exs.cx/img145/8325/dsc022909nu.jpg And here's where it lives! http://img138.exs.cx/img138/6349/dsc022944tn.jpg They CAN be bought from: Hans Motors 22 The Fort Ind Park Birmingham B35 7AR Tel 0121 749 8820 Speak to Lloyd Parchment - mention my name (Mike Fenlon) and the forum!! The original Beru (OEM) part no is 0 100 226 228 but it has now been superceeded, although Lloyd is aware of the new part No. It is not a stock item, and has to be ordered from Germany, but it is the GENUINE OEM part. Cost is......
  3. Had this with mine - and there is a TSB on TIS about it - did it myself and cured it immediately!.. HTH Mike TECHNICAL SERVICE BULLETIN No.96/2001 Car and Light/Medium Commercial 06.12.2001 Section: 204-01 (14) Model: 2000.75 Galaxy Markets: All Subject: Vibrations and oscillations of the steering wheel at speeds between 80 and 120 km/h Summary Should a customer express concern about vibrations and oscillations of the steering wheel at speeds between80 and 120 km/h, the probable cause is excessive stress between the front crossmember and the chassis of the vehicle. To rectify this concern, first check the wheels/tyres and the brakes to make sure that there are no other possible causes for the vibrations. In addition, align the crossmember and check and adjust the front wheel alignment. Aligning the front crossmember Note: All four wheels must be taking the weight of the vehicle when the bolts on the front crossmember are released. Note: Only undo the bolts, do not completely take them out.
  4. It is clipped to the wiper linkage arm on the passenger side, just underneath the plastic cowling - The wiring for it follows that for the wiper motor back into the loom, and there is just enough slack to pull it free and get at it. Mike
  5. Audio isn't connected on my Gal either - but on Our A4 Tdi130 (2001) You can run full diagnostics on the head unit and the changer - test all the speakers, illumination and eject/change the disc etc.. Mike
  6. Lol Was only asking as I thought the posting of images didn't work - or is that the attachment of files?? Hmm Mike
  7. VR6Gal... How did you attach that image, and what format its it in? Afaik we aren't able to upload images - unless it's been sorted since yeaterday?? Mike
  8. If they have put thst in your Tdi, I'd be getting it dropped NOW, and seeking legal advice.. The PD motor put extreme stress on the oil film between the cam and the injectoor - and only the PD spec oil is approved... If you have had it serviced there bofore.... then major damage may be waiting to happen, I know of a couple of PD's tht have literally eaten cams after being used woth the wrong oil, and it ain't cheap to repair the damage. Mike
  9. Crasn - I am on Merseyside.. PM me if you still want it doing.. Mike
  10. The 2 dials in the headlining control the AUXILARY heater for the rear of the passenger compartment and nothing else. The BOOSTER heater is the one situated under the n/s/r door, tucked up behind the sill - if you kneel down and look, the small exhaust and silencer can be clearly seen. I have some pics taken when I did mine, but we still can't upload images... Mike
  11. Not according to the Ford TIS it is not, it is 5C. Taken from TIS 2004.. Booster Heater Owing to the high efficiency of the 1.9L diesel engine, at low temperatures, there is insufficient waste heat available for the heater. For this reason a booster heater is installed to increase the coolant temperature so that the air in the heater is heated up sufficiently. The highest output of the booster heater is 5 kW and the lowest 2.4 kW. A fuel pump attached to the fuel tank absorbs diesel from a separate fuel line and pumps it into the evaporator section of the combustion chamber. The exhaust gases are discharged into the outside air by means of a separate exhaust system. An amount of smoke during the start of the fuel fired heater is typical and a part of the normal combustion process. The system is automatically activated when the engine is running (signal D+ from the generator is active) and when the ambient temperature is lower than 10
  12. Hi Crasin.. Whereabouts are you? If local I don't mind plugging you in for a diagnostic.. Mike
  13. I'd like to know this as well... Mike
  14. Hi! I'd get that cambelt done asap, if it's already done 50k... And if your car is taking this long to warm up - it's 99% likely that the booster heater ain't working.. HTH Mike
  15. Lo guys - it's 10C outside temp and 75C water temp - as long as the temps are below this, it should run continuously.. As mine now does, since I replaced the glow plug lol :rolleyes: Mike
  16. The TSB details are: No 55/2003 dated 06/05/2003 Hth Mike
  17. Interesting... Keep us informed pls.. Mike
  18. Hehe B) Mike
  19. Guys, it needs to be connected to check the temp - the level is via the old "if it don't seep out - it ain't full enough" method... Personally I am gonna have a go at draining and refilling mine asap, as I don't believe any auto trans fluid will last the life of a box.. Mike
  20. Apparently so - same as the cruise... Mike
  21. Don't gforget the at least another
  22. I have a private plate on my Gal - hides it's age, and also happens to spell my name... Paid
  23. To be honest mate - unless you can get a 2nd hand engine complete and fitted cheaply - it probably is a financial write off.. Sorry.. :ph34r: Mike
  24. On a Zetec - most likely Booster as it is STD, the programmable one is extra, and has a digi clock in the headlining. Mike
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