Mirez

Paint code is on the VIN plate, open the bonnet and look down the gap by the driverside hinge - the plates down there and the paint code is the second up on the bottom left.

Really?.... Can you get a photo of the on-screen wireless option? Visteon don't show as ever having done a wireless option for the Mk2 Galaxy system, its also shared with the Mk3 mondeo and likewise there was no option for that until much later (55ish) when it moved to a new controller and screens but that was never fitted to the Mk2 Galaxy as the Mk3 was about to be launched. The "eyes" on each screen are purely IR receivers for the remote control, they allow the screens to be addressed seperately for picture settings / volume etc. I've never worked on one is all but I'll happily stand corrected, there are always varients that go through undocumented.

That's just harsh :P

Correct, the convenience (or pain in the ass if its got wet) module was fitted below the passenger seat but only on early Mk1's. By 1998 it had been moved up behind the drivers side dash and nothing was fitted in that recess until 2000 when the park assist module was put down there for the launch of the Mk2. I would suggest wiring in one of the front doors will almost certainly be causing your problem but I'll be interested to see what jut-sus finds at the weekend though as I've never seen a rear door's wiring causing the window lowering effect - in theory at least, its only the front door wiring that can cause that but as we all know - theories a wonderful thing!

Are you before or after me? I search daily for one on ebay and in 4 years just one Mk2 set has come up (which I bought for the last car!!). Another did come up 3 days ago but for

Lol, don't raise the car - it'll just slide into place if the car is level as the bar is at rest then - if you can't get enough access with the wheel on full lock then remove the wheel and then lower the jack a bit to bring the front end back level.

Absolutely, all three of the effected circuits run through the door gaitor so its not at all out of the question that frayed wires in there are causing the problem. Thats what I was getting at with continuity checking between module and control, if its been properly tested then each wire should have been tested in turn, preferably out of circuit, with a resistance of less then a couple of ohms. No electrical testing beets a proper visual examination though of those wires however.

Well firstly you've bought a Ford badged VW and not a proper Ford so stop whinging about Ford and bad mouth VW instead :D How did he test the circuits? Did he actually take anything apart or just diagnose with a computer? If he properly tested things then he should have checked he had 12v and ground at the module and again both 12V and ground in the drivers door. He should have tested continuity between the drivers door control and the module - IF he did then yes, you probably need a replacement module, however there are a few things you can do so you can use a second hand one without problems. I suspect its not been properly tested though, how long did they have it for? Most simply attempt communication with the module and if that fails they pronounce the unit dead.

Well I have the codes somewhere but you don't need them for what you are trying to do. Read the original eeprom, save it as an EEP file, swap the clusters over then open the EEP and write it back to the new cluster which should give you the clone you need. Again with Vag-Com, you don't need to login to the controller to recode the options.

Replace the cluster, or borrow a known good one to test.<BR>

Leave the radio on! The media system needs the feed to run, without it it'll turn back off 30 seconds after the radios switched off.

Nope, the wireless headphones suit the Mk3 media system only, the Mk2 only has the option of conventional headphones

If its petrol thats in there then under no circumstances try to start the engine, get it recovered and drained. If you are lucky then no serious damage will have already occured but you need to have it properly drained. It should say on the receipt what pump and grade was used and at the very least the cost per gallon which should allow you to work out whats been used - call the garage if not as they can confirm using the number.

<BR><BR>Correct on both counts, corrupt data will be erased with a cluster "reboot" - normally its a little more then that though but you''ve nothing to loose by trying it.<BR>

Seem this a quite a few times before on various VW's and its normally the cluster as fault - the guage sweep isn't a real indication thats its working, the controllers for the guages are addressed by a master controller which is bypassed in the sweep test - its also just told to go to max, min and half digitally and not via an actual signal.

Standard ford 6 disc changer - they are all the same from about 99 on with a square plug on. Basic mapping the travelpilot might be the way to go Found a pic of it as well: http://www.kfzpix.de/eng/foto/ford-navireparatur-travel-pilot-lesefehler-1-2.jpg Quite a nice looking unit but only monochrome and no "map" just directions - up to date mapping though. As for the 1.5 Din thing, the dash surround for the double din unit isn't that expensive - IIRC

Well have a read of this first: Inner Halfshaft I'd get a second opinion first as play in that shaft can look a lot like driveshaft rotatational play. If you do need to replace the driveshafts then OEM is a good route, having used pattern parts they caused more problems then anything else with imbalance, noise and excessive play. I've actually just replaced both inner CV's using the same company as I used in that halfshaft post - the result is a really tight front end and its certainly feels better then the old one did after replacing both shafts with OEM in the end. I must say the drivers side shaft is a doddle to pop out and replace, its the passenger side one that is more awkward as you need to seperate the hub.

Andy, I think due to the limited number of V6's out in Galaxy guise its probably worth asking this over at http://www.vr6oc.com - good luck!

Actually its not movement sensing but purely optical; Infrared is fired against the inside of the screen at a 45 degree angle, with a dry screen the light has little distortion and the receiver gets a strong signal bounced back

The VW one: RNS-MFD1 - is the only factory version. The only difference in the galaxy version is that its branded "Ford", illuminates green and has the ford splash screen other then that its still made by Blaupunkt for VW so you'll need a cable adaptor to take ford to ISO and it won't control the Ford changer, only the VW version. The RNS also requires a different center console to accept a double din radio. You could consider the ford units that are fitted to the focus/mondeo as they are 1.5 din (same as the 5000/6000/7000 that'll be in yours currently) so will just pop into the existing hole. The basic version is "Ford Travelpilot" and the more advanced version is the "9000 VNR" - both are good units but the VNR's let down by very out of date mapping (latest available is 2003!) where the travelpilots still having maps made for it. Both will control the galaxy changer as they were designed for Ford vehicles only. 9000 VNR:

Unless you intend to use it daily or for business then just get one off ebay. Look for VagCom 409 with lead and you'll be set.

Ideally you need to recode the instrument cluster. It'll be set for the UK at the moment. Use VagCom to read the softcoding and it'll be something like: 05402 Its that 4 that'll be giving you the UK version, change it to a 7 and the cluster will be set for the australian market instead.

When your vagcom arrives you'll be able to diagnose it but on the symptoms alone a faulty coolent sensor would be the most likely cause.

You can but its not easy and I don't believe the bits are available seperately. How did you manage to do it!? It should still fit back together, the outside rim is purely to hold it in place and the screw mechanism locks the two parts together. Ensure the purple locking pin hasn't moved as this commonly causes problems with not being able to reconnect the two halfs.