Mirez

Hell thats insane, when was the last MoT? It won't be the cause of the light being on though, thats more likely a sensor issue - probably that dodgy one! Short of a leak I can't think of any other reason why you would stop a caliper working but even if it was leaking who in their right mind would just disconnect it? Braking on 3 wheels must have felt bloody weird... hence when the last MoT was done, it would have been picked up on then - personally I'd go back to the previous owner and give him a right going over - he's basically knowingly sold you a death wagon. If the MoT was recent then it would be easier to prove he knew of the bodge.

Did he weld it? I did wonder about doing this on mine but was a little concerned should it ever need to be parted again. I also contemplated putting a bolt through the centre of the shaft to hold it in position but drilling it would have been difficult and I wasn't sure on the balancing implications of doing that.

Yes but its all VagTacho work not Vag-Com. The only thing you could try in VC is changing the cluster market to USA as I dont think they have the door ajar warning active over there. Use the Recode (Soft-Coding) option, you'll be looking to change the 3rd Digit from the UK's "4" to the USA's "2". Its worth trying 5 and 7 in there as well (Japan and Aus) as thats the only potential way you'll do it via VC that I know of.

You need to explain a little more about what you've done with the radio, fully disconnected? Rewired? Removed?

You can disable the beep using VagTacho bujt I'm not aware of a way to disable the it for individual items, it would be all or nothing so you would loose it for the temperature, fuel, service, and ECU messages as well. The only way I can think of to accomplish this for just the door open warning would be to disable the door open system entirely so you would loose the graphic and the message but thats got even more safety issues involved.

Theoretically no any Vag Tacho cable will do the job. Choose carefully though as the cheaper ones are known to have linking and communications issues and the last thing you want is the connection dropping mid way though the upload as that's game over for your cluster.

Nonsence man! Its actually really easy... if anyone would prefer they can email me the EEP file and I'll edit it here and then send it back. BTW its already booked out now <_<

Done... see attached. If anyone wants to enable this, we'll go with the above prices given the cable seems to have gone up in price! Miles2Empty.pdf

If its a sloppy clunk you might want to read this: http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.php?showtopic=21141&st=0&p=156786&&do=findComment&comment=156786

Hi George, no I've not had the time to fiddle further - I had a quick muck about with an audi cluster which uploaded correctly and managed to get the timer on the screen but couldn't get it do to anything, so I suspect it might need some other hardware to function correctly but its not the weather to be out fiddling with car electrics so maybe I'll pursue it further in the summer. If I'm honest its not something I really want so I've not givien it much time. With regard renting the cable, yes I'm quite happy to set that up. I'll write the PDF and then go from there...

Yes it will fit, thats a mondeo/focus one though so it won't sit perfectly. The Galaxy ones have perfect square corners on all 4.

M080781 relates to code 2603

You need to look over the whole car and have a serious think... it sounds like you have one thats not been maintained. It would appear you have to be quite carefull when you pick any MPV, a lot have been used by families who either dont have the money or the time to maintain a car properly, I saw some really knarly examples when I was hunting which looked presentable on the outside but when you delved deaper they had obviously never seen any form of decent maintenance.

:P I'll save you the embarrassment of telling you that was only my third go... ohh wait.... :)

Spinning around in the can? Is it only on full lock? If so then it's possibly a normal noise of the PAS system under pressure

Goody Gumdrops :unsure:

Hmmmm, that's interesting as the gauge I'm looking at has a max of 2 bar shown. Do you think it would also show the correct reading if plumbed into the boost pipe that leads to the ecu? Well 1.8bar would be the absolute max you would expect to be seeing from it really, anything more on a standard system would indicate somethings wrong :unsure: Theoretically yes, the pressure should be the same regardless of where on the system its plummed in.

Not fitted one but did contemplate it, what is the max reading on the gauge? You'd be unlikely to see more then about 1.8bar from a standard system.

I may get some abuse for this but to be brutally blunt about it, there is no direction or development and thats the only reason its quiet. There is little incentive for any new member to return once his/her question is answered and so you end up with a declining memberbase and ghost users. I own 6 different forums, 4 of which are vehicle related and they are all busy, they dont really have quiet periods - our biggest one has just undergone a major name change so all the links and referels no longer worked and the traffic dropped nearly 90% - Its taken us just 2 weeks of work and its now busier then before.

I would say its more likely to be a simple CV joint failing...

Depends on whats broken, it would be very unlucky if it needs another pump - they are normally very reliable. There's a high possibility that when the garage replaced the last one they sheared the retaining bolt off and rather then drill out and tap a new hole they simply bodged a repair (or even left) and hence its now gone. You need to have someone look at it and work out whats actually faulty.

Complete tosh, its a 12V system and low current to boot - you could unplug it with the system active and beeping and you'd be perfectly safe from any electrical shocks (assuming thats what he meant). The car has a cable that runs around the car called the VSS (or gala for VW) which is basically a pulsed signal that indicates vehicle speed, VAG modules (such as the parking system) simply "listen" to that signal to work out the vehicle speed and thats why it turns off at 15mph. There is no simple On/Off wire you can tap into to gain that function on your new system if you remove the existing setup, all I can think of doing at the moment is to relay off the LED output for the warning light (so you'll need to cap it as it'll be flashing) and remove the sounders from the car to stop the beeps.

I suspect that will be your biggest problem, there are only a couple of people on here with Vag-Tacho and I'm not sure how comfortable they are with using it. The Mk1 is different to the Mk2 in terms of coding as well so it might end up being easier for you to source a replacement cluster from a manual car and just swap it over.

The senders outputs are quite different, its a simple byte change within the memory of your current cluster but you'll need vag-tacho not vagcom/vcds to do it.