Mirez

Yes and No, he's confused the aux heater and the run-on pump. The auxiliary heater (of which the run-on pump is most associated) only runs when the temperature is below 10*c HOWEVER the run-on pump has multiple roles and runs at ALL times when the engine is running and for 3 minutes after... if the pumps not working now then there is no way the auxiliary heater will work when the temps go below 10. So once again he's mistaken...

You'll kill a Mk2 quite quickly using bio but apparently Mk1's can handle it quite well.

There is a sence that auto-electrics are easy (and to a point it is) but the risk of electrical fire is high when you don't know what you are doing so first up, well done for stopping! You'll need to locate the unit somewhere you have space, which is probably why people have gone for under the seat - some other locations would be above the airbag controller (against the bulkhead, between the two footwells) or in behind the glovebox. Wiring wise, a permanent 12V will be tricky to find within the cabin as the central controller will knock power off to most circuits 10 minutes after the car is locked. There is a permanent feed to the box which you could tap off but my preference would be to go back to the battery direct - ensure the fuse is as close to the "tap" point as possible else it defeats the point. The ground point can be any of the multiple points located around the car or you could made your own if you really wanted, you dont use another circuits ground wire but always go to the ground points. There is one under the passenger seat, under the drivers seat, and behind the sound deadening at the bottom of each A pillar (to name a few). Finally the two wires for the existing central locking will be best tapped from either the passenger door wiring (again, remove the deadening from the passenger footwell and look up to the left of the glovebox) or behind the lower B pillar cover for the rear door's wiring. The latter will be significantly easier to wire to depending if the wires you need are there (I didn't have time to read your manual link). Make sure you have a decent multimeter and double check all the wiring before making the connections. - Good luck!

You can buy any connector direct from VW along with the correct size repair wires to make the thing up. You'll need to cut and solder the cables in though as the other end of that cable is back at the CJB and integrated into the loom.

at the back of the engine, follow the intake up from the back, left and you'll find a large metal lump with a saucer type object on it - thats the EGR. Removal is 3 bolts but they arn't easy! Oddly enough I did this job last weekend, Not a pretty sight! Still MPG has gone from mid 40's back to high 40's early 50's so I'm happy :(

lol, class film :(

In fact here: The galaxy is a little under 12Amp per side at startup, levelling off to around 3Amp compared to a regular halogen lamp that will use a moderately fixed consumption of around 4.5/5Amp per side.

:( The Initial current draw when the arc is struck is actually higher then any halogen lamp, it then settles back and becomes much lower as the process settles. Its this initial current draw that will confuse a lot of modern controllers into thinking the circuit is shorted and closing the supply to it.

Agreed - there are no two ways about it - ALL MK2 Diesels have this pump so for them to say they don't know what you are talking about would start alarm bells ringing for me. Fortunately, you can see it without moving anything in the engine bay (just) so when you take it in you can point it out to them - then tell them to look up "Auxiliary coolant flow pump" on ETIS if they still won't believe you! Just make sure its deffo dead first or you'll look a bit of a fool lol.

I take it the car's not overheating? Needles showing 90? Whats the radiator feel like? Cabin heater working? There are a few things that could cause this and the TDI is so efficient that cooling issues can be masked for ages.

Generally yes, warm to hot - remove the cap SLOWLY after a run and you should get some steam.

Hummmm, well the common two for the kind of issue you are describing would be fuel filter and air filter. I can't see the MAF having such a pronounced effect, they normally cause a feeling of slugishness (like driving without a turbo) but I've not heard of one causing a shaking sensation - there are a couple of other sensors that could cause that kind of issue though so would be good to get some codes - when you get to 3K is there still this loss of power or is it all ok at the top revs? Where abouts are you based? There maybe someone local who can scan the car for you...

Hi Tom, nothing's impossible :lol: However one thing you NEED to know is that from Jan 2012 ALL HID system's will be fully tested at MoT stage and will be failed if any of the system is not functioning correcty or missing. That means that you MUST fit a washing system and an AUTOMATIC levelling system (its also the reason people are saying the aftermarket kits will be illegal - they won't be illegal but must also have both systems fitted and working) With regards to yours, did the headlight units come with the ballests? It'll be a big-ish box bolted onto the back of the light unit with a "High Voltage" sign - thats the first thing you'll need, secondly you'll need to get the ECU of the car reprogrammed so its expected xenon lights - the current consumption at start up is higher then a halogen and will probably be triggering a protection circuit.

Well the codes will certainly help :lol: However, please define "Full service" - I've seen some people who think a "Full service" is simply the oil and a filter so can you state what exactly was changed? :22:

How did I miss this one :lol: YES is the answer, all the readings are present and on some cars even the wiring is the place. The only thing you need is the replacement cluster from a similar year (avoid X and 51 plates as they had firmware bugs and post 53 clusters) - also make sure you get one that's from the same transmission as yours, (ie manual or auto) as they read the speed pulses differently. The stalk is just a swap over job, with possibly a few wires to run from it to the cluster if they aren't already in place.

Heyyy............ happy birthday buddy :lol:

What size alloys are on this? If its the stylance 17's then you need to double check the balancing. The larger the alloy the more critical the balancing becomes, poor practice by a lot of the quicker shops is to shove the balancing weights on just the inner edge - whilst this will technically balance the wheel at the low speeds used on the balancing machine, the forces generated on a larger wheel during acceleration will concentrate more toward the center and will show up this practice as steering wobble. Check where they have positioned the weights, they should be on the inside and outside of the wheel, if stick-on weights are being used then they should be positioned in behind the spokes (as close to the face as posible).

It will 100% have an auxillary pump although in Ford speak its the "Auxillary coolant flow pump" and not a "run-on" pump - but they should know what you mean by your description! However,even if that pump is faulty it won't be the cause of your problem, at a very least its a mediocre backup to the primary water pump but its main purpose has nothing to do with cooling the engine during operation. By far the most common reason for your problem would be the impellor coming adrift from the primary water pump, followed by a sticking thermostat, blockage in the system and finally head gasket failure.

If the pumps been changed, then the next things to look at are a sticking temperature flap or a blockage in the matrix - the latter being the less likely of the two.

Or you might not have found it and then it would be a lot more then

Personally, I would say to avoid that one - the V6 Auto's are thirsty blighter's (Just 22mpg average) and with 118k, no history and a towbar it could be that its been well used. The 22mpg might not be such an issue if you are only doing short journeys but the auto boxes are extreamly expensive when they go wrong so you need to make sure it's smooth and been well maintained! I would be inclined to ask your friend if you can have a go at removing his seats, as Chris says they arn't the lightest of things and I would imagine it would be made an awful lot harder to remove from a sitting position as you need them in a folded, upright position to install/remove.

Sounds good Paul, why not take some photos so we can see in case anyone else wants to try it!

I think they are more likely to not tow you then to start investigations after - its there so they don't have to repair/tow sheds. I really wouldn't worry :lol:

In a word: Yes. There are changes as the years go on but nothing to really worry about and it'll bolt in no problems.

Its easy enough, slightly fiddly due to space but easy to actually do. Its In the engine bay, behind and to the left of the engine. No special procedures: 1) Disconnect the piping 2) Remove the filter 3) Replace the filter 4) Reconnect the piping 5) Turn ignition on (wait for pump to stop), turn ignition back off 6) Repeat step 5 about 10 times to fully prime the filter Done!