Mirez

Not aware of any problems with them other then the usual caking of crap as with all diesels. Its also not monitored so strictly by the ECU like the zaffy so even it were to fail it wouldn't code out.

Diesels come with 90/115/130/150 power plants, the 90 should be avoided if you plan on using all 7 seats frequently and the 150's are few are far between. All are reliable VW sourced engines. Trim wise, LX is your poverty spec, Zetec is midspec and Ghia is top spec. Obviously Ghia's are the most sought after and offer a decent amount of toys. What go's wrong? Everything - same as any other car :D ! The common one on these though: 1)Front windscreen wiper linkage seizure, resulting is slow juddery wipers or complete failure. Excess of

Cheers mate, to answer your questions I use: 1) Total - I subscibe to the theory that supermarket fuel is generally crap and since Total is just down the road it's the easy option 2) Every now and then. I've used Millers (on your advice actually) and also some trade cleaners 3) "zgb115qlb00462" which is 5/40 every 6K. Yes I know that's way below the requirement but I get the oil at cost :) I bought second hand though so the first 40K of its life it could have had anything in it! I would say millers or any other cleaner should have a good effect on cleaning the injectors, cylinders and exhaust manifold but I can't imagine it will have much effect on the intake manifold, the only time its going to get up there is through the EGR system and only after its been combusted. It took a ferric chloride acid bath to disolve some of it and carb cleaner did very little!

Thanks! Will price it up but its Ford specific for the Mk2 so I bet it'll be more then that :)

Well after cleaning up the EGR system I noticed a large build up of crap within the intake manifold - obviously this couldn't be cleaned in situ so I removed it last weekend and cleaned it all out. I havn't bothered to post this as I wanted to see if there was any effect on the car or if it was a pointless exercise. Well the results are in: An increase in MPG over the weeks mileage from 42.9 to 50.4 Vast improvement in throttle response Vast improvement in acceleration Noticeable decrease in idle noise I'll do a full write up on this later, but here are some of the pictures so you can guage the scale of the problem. Take into account that mines an 03 with just 70K on the clock... Intake Manifold's err Intake: A small scrape out shows thickness of crud buildup: Manifolds outlet ports: Crud from manifold, just midway into process! Manifold's Intake after acid bath (Same as Pic1) Outlet Ports after bath

You don't really need a how-to for the Mk2 diesel, its in the engine bay, behind the battery. Simply remove the surrounding gubbins and unbolt it.

One assumes you've checked all the fuses are intact? If so then you need to measure for voltage at the drivers switch.

I'm not following what you need? The Park Distance Control (PDC) ecu controls both front and rear sensors - the sounders are different though, one in the back next to the nearside light cluster and the front down under the passenger seat with the ECU.

The quality of the oil shouldn't put that light on though, it would prompt a service alert "IN01" if it needed changing but the only reason the yellow warning should come on is if the level is low. (or the sender is faulty). That said the quality sensor is only fitted to some, the OP hasn't stated what make, year and spec the car is so its hard to speculate at this point. - Let us know! (And add it to your signature for future posts)

you're low on oil!

Can't make head nor tail of that to be honest. Are the relay pins numbered?

Thank you Mike, Mirez. Another job for the weekend. The Halford's lad checked the pressure at about 3 psi(?). Is this enough to generate bubbles if I try the water test? Does this equate to much in terms of frostbite or damage to the ozone layer or the law? Also he said that the gas they use will fix the leak. Is this likely? Unlikely, they shouldn't be using anything with leak sealing properties in an A/C system anyway! 3Psi, you should just about have the odd bubble there but after removing the cap you should be able to see what condition things are in. Modern refrigerent isn't harmfull to the atmostphere but typically the law is one step behind so you still have to have it vac'd out rather then discharge it.

Yes - "DO NOT REMOVE" is a bit protective though, there's nothing nasty going to happen if you remove the cap.

I would suspect that relay needs wiring in as its probably a bypass relay to protect the vehicle side of things. Do you have a closer photo of it? How many wires has it got?

I believe the 115's are strait and the 130/150 is angled back on the nearside but I'll confirm that later if nobody else does!

indicator sounder and trip relay since you've got two plugs you'll have a permanent 12v feed

AVLS system, or Adaptive Vehicle Lighting System. An optional extra on halogen lamps and standard on xenon lamps. On the halogen lamps they should swivel and are static on the xenon units, you should only see them come on at low speeds when cornering.

Need a set of surrounds. Nothing special, the basic black plastics ones are all I need.

Eek! Do you know what each wire is for? If yes then i'll tell you where to connect them, if no then you'll need to get handy with a multimeter and tell me what pin and on what socket the wire go's too! As for routing that's easy, just follow the parking sensor loom back. It's where the factory wiring would go and you'll fine the gromit's more then big enough. You then split the looms and route under the scuff plate to both rear sides to do the connecting.

I forget what car you have (add it to your signature for future posts) but if its a Mk2 115 then it *should* be fine

For your reference they are both listed to suit the AUY 115 engine. 038 906 019 FA (AUY 2000>3) 038 906 019 BF (AUY 2001>5) Clearly the BF is a revised ECU but its almost certainly software only so either should suit fine.

The last codes are FINISH codes (not to be confused with Fords FINIS system) - basically details revisions and options. The last F should be a revised ecu of the A but the preceding F and B would be a worry as its more likely that the ECU is coded for a different engine,

No, you need specific sensors for the type of controller in the car. You need Galaxy, Sharan or Alhambra sensors - the fronts and rears are the same but the system needs to see a full set working before it will operate so fitting the fronts to the rears won't work to get just half a system up.

Body Systems Interface - VAG's internal name for what's more commonly called the "Comfort Control Module". The galaxy hasn't actually got a CCM/BSI module but it has got a BCM (Body Control Module) which looks after a lot of the core functions of the vehicle and is probably what the chap's refering too. Either way I still think it'll be the wiring :)

Far more liekly the wires in the door gaitors breaking down - very common. There are loads of threads if you use the search but make a cuppa first :)