Mirez

You're very welcome -

Is that the little plastic stick one? If you have that then that HAS got a PATS chip in it so is a spare key, they were supplied at the dealer's though and it was 50/50 if they remembered to code it to the car! See if you can start it using that key and if so then you will be able to remove the key yourself from the immobiliser ;)

£90 isn't really a figure you can use with MPG calculations... how many litres do you get for that? You can then convert that to gallons and work the MPG from that. Based on a cost of £1.44 for your petrol then an estimate would be: £90 Div £1.44 = 64.2 Liters multiplied by 0.22 makes 14.15 Gallons. 260Miles Div 14.15 = 18.41 MPG Its not exactly good, but then it depends massively on your driving style, weight (load) and the roads you are driving on. The official MPG is quoted as 28 but that's a combined figure

Eek that's tricky. You can only remove the key from immobiliser side of system yourself if you can enter programming mode, ie if you have another two unique keys either remote or standard. You can only remove the key from the central locking if you have another single remote key Pulling fuse 14 should cut the fuel pump. and 4 will cut the ECU and immobiliser circuit so it should be very hard to drive off after that! Do you have another car you can box it in with?

Confirm the thermostat is actually present, and also that its not stuck open.

No different to virtually any other car, you start with the caliper closest to the reservoir and then work your way around. You'll need two people and preferably a bleeding kit.

Well maintained ones should be able to crack 500K without a problem. There is a Mk2 Taxi locally which had 675K on it last time I was in - original engine and box, 4th clutch though lol.

http://www.mirez.co.uk/Galaxy/PDF/Galaxy%20-%20Door%20Card%20Removal.pdf

Compress spring, undo top nut, remove cup, undo strut to hub bolt, remove strut and bush. If it go's that smoothly though count yourself extremly lucky! What size wheels are on it? I know from a bitter past that the Galaxy is exceedingly fussy on balancing. Gave all the symptoms you describe as well. Could also be a bearing on the way out or the front calipers not floating smoothly coupled with a slightly warped disc.

Received and attached should anyone else want to comment. Nothing wrong with that one, the fact its greased.is a great thing as thats what is normally missing and causes the wear. The other engine mount is under the battery tray and a right pain to get to so I wouldn't even bother if the other two look fine.

Pahhh its easy enough, changed mine in about 20 minutes lol the relays probably harder to do :) - I believe its only one sender, they don't always show up as faulty though, log the reading's whilst going for a drive and see if its reporting a steady temp or fluctuating.

No worries, in which case its held on by K245. 412-03A-00-019: Things to check: Fuse F18 is intact Fuse F34 is intact F18 being the supply to the pump, F34 being the relay supply. Assuming they are both ok, then either the relay is defective or the coolant temperature sensor's 2nd side has gone open circuit.

What year car?

No idea sorry! Looking at this auction for the auto stub: http://www.ebay.co.u...=item2a0377f210 I would say it looks extreamly similar (pic copied & attached for those reading this at a later date) but I think only motomax will be able to advise you properly on if it fits.

Thanks Mikey, wrong colour that sharan but nice none the less :ph34r: I'm actually in talks with someone who's had a HG failure on a 2001 sharan 4motion derv so I may buy that and retrofit the 4motion to this galaxy... should be fun :angry2: Richard, again thanks! Thats really helpfull as it shows that the seal is indeed different and I need those two clips - the scuttle and extension line up the same as mine now though so it should be cheap for those parts! MrT, didn't have any problems myself the jets went strait into the new housing no problem...

lol :angry2: Oddly though its played on an instrument with 6 strings... about the same as the MPG the V6 gets :ph34r:

Correct, if they have adjusted them then take it back as it's done incorrectly!

As above it varies wildly with conditions, styles and maintenance but 50mpg is certainly achievable on a motorway/A road although only if trying and 45ish is far more likely. If you can't get near that figure then you need to be looking at your driving style, vehicle condition and/or a faulty component. The big drop comes from the acceleration, keeping something at a certain speed is much easier then getting it there in the first place and a heavy car like the galaxy takes that much more to get it there.

That's how I do it, infact that's my photo :angry2: Its much easier then faffing about using that stupid hole but just make sure you mark the beam on a wall or something first so you can realign it when putting it back

Correct, they are spline not torx. Ideally buy yourself a rail set for your size ratchet rather then just the one as they are used around the car on a few things. The middle shaft (Stub Axel) isn't included with the driveshaft, you'll need that seperately and its expensive. All three shafts are easy enough for a competent DIY'er (they are actually a bit of a doddle compared to a lot of FWD cars). http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.php?showtopic=21141&st=0&p=156786&hl=stub&fromsearch=1&&do=findComment&comment=156786 Read that regarding the stub axel. The whole process to change the two driveshafts and stub would take me about 3 hours, allow longer if you've not done it before but as said, its easy enough on the Galaxy. You will need to split the lower balljoint so it would be advisable to replace those at the same time (you can just undo the who allen bolts instead but you run the risk of damage to the balljoint anyway doing it that way. Tool wise, you'll need the splines, a torque wrench, allen keys, socket set and a number of sized hammers to tap (or bash) the shaft out from the hub.

siemens = RFID Manufacturer 433.93 mh = Frequency 5wk4 790 /97/98 = Part Number Make sure the new key matches else it won't work.

Brace yourself.... just under

Assuming its all warmed up then yes, those figures are ok. Spikes are also not uncommon, use VC is logging mode and go for a drive - you can then use excel to chart whats been logged into something useful. I've attached one of my old logs so you can compare rough measurements. For some stupid reason CSV files can't be uploaded (- Insert line about webmaster being a lazy fool here-) so you'll need to rename it from .doc to .csv LOG-01-003-004-007.doc

The only movement should be in and out - ie, away from the engine toward the wheel and only by about 1/2 cm max.