seatkid

FAQ 22. Intermitent starting and cutting out MKII 2.3

Try VW/SEAT/SKODA dealers ask for 7M3 615 269 A (if its a folded blade) or 7M3 615 269 (if its a bent wire) these may do if it a wire thing http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Mintex-Brake-Caliper-Fitting-Kit-Volkswagen-SHARAN-7M8-7M9-7M6-2-0-95-10-/161115606524?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts_13&hash=item25833d0dfc

Current problem with the forum, its not accepting uploads at the moment. Maybe one of the mods could get in touch with Gteuk to get to give the server a boot.... :rolleyes:

Please provide car details, engine and year. If its a diesel, then its probably either the electric run-on pump has failed (Mk2 diesels only) , or the main water pump, though this often also gives overheating symptoms, (not always, as it can still work weakly - the plastic impeller becomes detatched from the shaft. ) http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/topic/7510-diesel-run-on-water-pump/?do=findComment&comment=54739 A faulty thermostat you would not see normal 90 deg temp on the gauge and you would still see some lukewarm air from the heater. My bet would be the main water pump as these are common failures.

You could always try supergluing a Wilko universal remote to it... :lol:

Now all you need is a water bed in the back..... :13:

The 1st Alhambra I owned, had standard 195/65/15 tyres that had 38psi+ and I noticed the rears were badly worn/sawtoothed on the inside edges at 25k. I didnt regularly carry much load, but could visually see there was a marked negative camber on the wheels with no load that only got worse with load. I put it down to bad geometry from the factory and I didnt know if or how it could be adjusted. In the end it didnt matter as it was written off a few weeks later. :o

Can't be sure but I think the power side (contacts) of the relay are RED +12v in and Black/Yellow out. I think the +12v power from the battery goes through fuse(s) in the Battery junction box, which is located forward of the battery. There are several live feeds from the battery +ve terminal via small gauge wires and several members have had wires broken from the crimped connectors (or nor reconnected after major work).

Check F18 (10A) Otherwise it looks like an ignition switch/wiring problem. Also worth check if any of the smaller wires have not broken off the positive battery terminal.

If you've only one key then you'll have to go through a dealer When I took delivery new (and also all other new cars since then) in addition to the 3 keys I got a "magic tag" with the keycode, I was told not to lose this as getting a replacement key may be very difficult without it. Good luck

Just disconnect the 12volt plug and the clutch will never engage.

I always fit Continental Premium Contact 2 (215/60 R15 98H XL) and get aound 45k per set. I swap them back to front at around 25k so change all 4 four at once. I run at 33psi front and 31 psi rear empty and 34psi front and 40psi rear if fully laden. Mine is a Mk1 90bhp tdi btw.

Now he says.... :glare: No, info was for 98->00 models. Well.... today I'm just not in the mood.... :P

You'd have to ask at the parts dept. Depends if you get the grumpy guy or the helpful guy. I find my SEAT and SKODA parts chappies friendly and willing but the VW guys are most grumpy - not tried Audi - couldnt get past the posh tarts at reception :bigemo_harabe_net-149:

VAG part no 038 971 782 B from http://www.auto-parts.spb.ru/cat/au/au.mycat?SelPg&t=sXOAJ3tzgCcic4An8ynoHoAy2QHiKgP_Zk6AJ4AsABexc4JYUVGEK7FFxj_xU4CtvCBCXTwgRL2N4KeHYj6pthI1ACSN/uhm8BjRXueIcl_tN28NdBZF_brdZje89CA/oTaCKJPU8Jr9q4YtcLkJ7lKr_AuZMa526cCInIQUxl2qSFrCe76wpIgndh2usGtnPzU0KDOdyIC7YZBci5Qg VW/SEAT/Skoda/Audi dealer parts dept should help

Equivalent VAG parts here http://www.auto-parts.spb.ru/cat/au/au.mycat?SelPg&t=FF7yTd1e8k2FXvJNVgSadCUfq2tHB7VLBZ3yTSUBcn0UXvAy9Hz2QRRotFUUfvLEGQ29V7ePZk0UjbTrkNGjpw46KMW4M3tLln/p2YnrychtyHY1xg84koJRsmMBX3cQ8LLaUxgEAVstX3QU/ne3n2AGnhXdK8NYI56jl8Lb6smabkmRx7/po/N9Y51OjmO5fx4MY/DUguw00P5ukg==

Check Fuse 14 (20A) Other possibilities are F13 (3A), F16 (20A) and F32 (3A)

This is almost certainly a case of sticky vane actuator. The reason you "hit the wall" and revs dropped off was that MK2 diesels will go into limp mode when the turbo boost goes out of expected range, and you can only reset it by switching the engine on and off. So despite my earlier posts :blush: , I don't think an italian tune up is going to work here. Its a case of working that vane actuator free, which can be done in situ if stiction isnt too bad - but to do it properly its a strip down job on the turbo/egr/manifold as outlined above in boffa's post.

What are you lot on about? A 98 model only has steering wheel and passenger airbags (and seatbelt tensioners in the B pillars) The usual reason for airbag light is due to problems with the clock spring in the steering wheel. Once the airbag light is lit, it can only be reset with diagnostics i.e. VCDS/VAGCOM. Access to the diagnositics plug is by pulling out the front central ashtray.

Measure it at a remote point - try the cigarette lighter socket. Could be an earthing problem - check the negative leads to chassis.

Personally, black alloys (on any car) always look from any distance as if the car has standard pressed steel wheels and missing their hub caps. The only exception are some detailed black/alloy colour wheels where the alloy dominates the black - but then again only some Citroen ones catch my eye - all others look naff or like steelies without the hubcap. Simple design alloys are the nicest and will stand the test of time/fashion fads.

Hc level, running rough suggests ignition problem. Most likely a coilpak failure - quite common.

Its a part no. (click the link for the parts diagram)

02N 409 344 E or 02N 409 344 F depending on engine ( one is 90bhp, other 155bhp et al - dont know which though)