seatkid

Probably garage diagnostic kit message thrown up by inability of operator.......

Mods please move to Mk3 section... So get them to fix it or get insurance to sort if its been in an accident.

Its the booster heater located under the car in front of the rear nearside wheel. Only fitted to models with diesel engines it comes on in cold weather to assist in warming up the coolant circuit and internal heaters. Its independantly powerd by diesel and is, in effect, a small jet engine.

From my experience - Do remove the plastic wheel liners - especially the front wheel ones - clean out the dirt in the area where the outer wing meets the inner wing/engine bulkhead - there will be lots of rust there because of blocked drainage underneath. Front crossmembers just behind the front wheels - check the underseal is not cracked - if it is (and its most likely) then peel it back - you will probably see lots of rot there that needs to be knocked out/fixed or cleaned up. Note the inside of the front members likely to be full of dried up mud, despite the drain holes. Rear suspension, around the mounts - lots of rust. Leading bottom edge of the rear wheel arches, and trailing bottom edges of front wheel arches. If your sill lips have been damaged/bent (a lot of dealers/garages do this when incorrectly jacking the car) then the sills lips will be rusting. Unbend them and clean them properly before priming/painting/sealing. Remove the spare wheel, you may see a fair amount of rust around/inc the the spare wheel winch. I have rust around the rear tailgate lock - this will require removing the trim in the tailgate and I expect to find a fair bit of rust in the bottom of the tailgate - it seems common in all VAG cars due to lack of paint/protection inside and poor drainage. Otherwise - just get a good lamp and lie underneath and give it a good inspection.

Before you start taking things to pieces, just see how much lower than the min mark it goes. Every VAG car I've had (quite a few) all blow out water (dont know where but I presume though the cap) when filled much above the min mark (cold). As I understand it, take the max mark to mean water level with a hot engine. After that the possible areas to investigate are EGR, head gasket/cracked cylinder head, the last two usually because of remaps and tuning boxes. Leaking radiators are also something seen - check the end tanks for telltale white deposits. Dont forget to maintain the coolant at the the right concentration of the correct stuff (G12++ dont use anything else!)

Its more likely that that fault is saying you are low on gas (low pressure)

Your engine doesnt have an external injection pump. Each injector is its own pump (PD - Pump Duse). First check the auxillary belt tensioner isnt jumping up and down madly as this indicates a seized alternator clutched pulley (common).

Moderators please move this to Mk3 forum.

The boost under limit error indicates the vane actuator is unable to move the the max boost position - common because the mechanism is loaded with carbon. If its not a common occurence then an "italian tune up" session might help free it up. By that I mean taking it full pedal to the redline in 3rd and back down to 1500rpm and up again a number of times - take care where you do this and only if you know your cambelt is in good condition. You should see lots of black smoke in your rear view mirror!

Sounds the car doesnt have a FSH and the dealer is try to wedgie you! Buy only on the assumption it has no service history - cos it hasnt!

CC flashing on start up indicates a fault - if the compressor is not engaging to give cold air it is usually due to low or no gas (the 3-way pressure switch tells it and inhibits compressor.). Kwikfit will not charge if they regas your car and the air is no colder - the equipment they use is the same as any other garage/dealer - it automatically vacs the gas (and weighs), checks for a leak (by holding the vacuum for several mins) and regasses by weight and adds oil based on the recovered amount. However, if the gas subsequently leaks out after you drive away, they won't refund you - but I guess you already knew that. :closedeyes: If your a/c is still cold and the controls (flaps) work fine, I suggest you attempt to clean the tiny fan to the left of the LCD display (use a small brush and a vacuum cleaner) - this is a fan that draws air over a temperature sensor and gets clogged with dust over time. If you listen carefully with your ear next to the tiny grill, when you turn the ignition on, you should hear it whirring/winding up if it is still turning.

Theres only a few reasons why the CC flashes, its usually due to low pressure which means you need a regas (but could have a leak). Other reasons for flashing CC I know of are faulty/stuck flap motors or a stalled sensor fan in the cc unit itself - none of these would stop the compressor from cooling. So best bet is to take it to Kwikfit who will regas it for £49 and if it still dont work, they wont charge you anything for the regas. But apparently winter starts tomorrow......

Ah, finally someone who is wearing his specs......

Its in the manual. For a Mk1 1. Ignition off. 2. Press and hold in trip button 3. Ignition on, still holding in the trip button. 4. Wait until LCD display changes - usually around 10 secs 5. Release trip button 6, Switch off ignition. Note there are up to 3 levels (IIRC) of service. So sometimes the display will go go down one level - e.g. from INSP (Inspection) to OIL (Oil service). In this case repeat the sequence until all levels are cleared.

Should have gone to specsavers......

Broken wires in the door and tailgate gaitors (check all 6) are most likely the cause of your woes - very very common. 31. Examining wires in door to pillar rubber boot (You can just pull the rubber gaitor back without disconnecting the plug) 43. Detailed instructions for Reparing wires in Door gaiters 44. Soldering Instruction Guide, Joining And Splicing Properly

And there was I thinking it was probably his wife sat next to him...... ;)

Its going into "limp mode". Can be caused by a number of things but the most likely are a sticky vane actuator on the Turbo or a faulty MAF sensor. Running a diagnostic scan using VCDS or VAGCOM would give further information to help track it down.

Hey! Welcome back Mumof4! Long time no hear. Hows life treating you lately - hope its all good.

The end recently fell out of one of my locking bolts to reveal a multispline (AZN?) bolt underneath. I put it back and tapped it with a hammer to hold it in. Have you tried VW/SEAT dealers? Someone once said they were made by McGard - maybe an email to them would help Does it look like thi ? http://www.ebay.com/itm/VW-AUDI-WHEEL-LOCK-KEY-52-WITH-SEVEN-SQUARE-SPLINES-/261056883595

chris is correct, ignore my bit about 3 different part nos! As you can see an oil seperator in Janines picture then it looks like 1a 028103491M Should be available to order from VW, Seat, perhaps Skoda dealer.

See here http://www.auto-parts.spb.ru/cat/au/au.mycat?SelPg&t=xAhcKgwIXCpKCFwqhlI0E/VJBQyXUYBMLIdcKvRX3BrECF5VJCpYJsQ_GjLEKFygzV1g_a5bmr6szEKokPwROsQIaTekebhu8XH30TC/apdl9J7z8jR7c2msQaFAjzqAfI72q4qDHLtg2LA71/1mu6A9TMiXkdRMelHxs25KkXjiTq4SJnqE0Lsh8SIg3tn6f5p16ECOvx2AcA== If it goes to the oil seperator it looks like item 1a - Breather Tube part no 028 103 491 M If it goes to the rocker cover pressure regulator valve its item 1 - Breather tube - 3 possible part nos dependant on the serial no of your engine (AFN 110bhp)

Strange beast - appears to have a mk1 body and interior and yet a mk2 engine........ Metinks the 115ps is a misprint and should be 110 or 90ps

Wiper fuses on your car are F12 (15A) and F28 (10A)

Try 9" molegrips . Remember anticlockwise to unscrew! (looking at the head). Fit a new sump plug - costs less than £2 Decent tools are the key, Ring spanners, BAHCO adjustable spanners are not cheap but worth every penny. Dont waste your money on cheap tools. Alternatively you can buy a PELA oil extractor and suck the oil out through the dipstick - easy, no mess, no sump plug removal!