seatkid

http://www.kimbercarparts.co.uk/Transmission/CV-Boots-Joints-Drive-Shafts/Seat/Alhambra/%7BAll%7D/1.9/2011/Parts.aspx Page 3 bottom refers to a SHAFT03 product - give the company a ring and ask

Sorry, late night. I'll check again 02N 409 344 E or 02N 409 344 F depending on engine I guess

If its an ANU engine post 2000 Checking VAG catalog it seems its 7M3 407 271 G check these people..... http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VW-SHARAN-ALHAMBRA-6-SPEED-MANUAL-FRONT-DRIVE-SHAFT-CV-JOINTS-7M3-407-271-T-/400307470820?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item5d342f41e4 or http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VW-SHARAN-1-9TDi-2-0-PETROL-ABS-FRONT-DRIVESHAFT-2006-ON-FITS-BKV-ANU-ATM-/170751501961?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item27c1952689 but they have a T suffix so tread carefully

15 years old (130k miles) and flew through its MOT today with no advisories! :)

Which wheel are people talking about? A photo of your handiwork might help us help.... I've not done a Shalaxy regulator, but done a couple of fabias. Its usually a case of the plastic sliders need to be the right way round and of course the right cable in the right position. THis may help

I checked on VAG catalog http://www.auto-parts.spb.ru/cat/au/au.mycat?SelMd&t=MyWLTfkli02_JYtNcX/jdAJk0mtgfNbn9i_LTQJ6C30zJYky0wePQTMTzVUzBYvHPnZLzJclkUGpDA9LsyegcJvEQwl/37OSWtW_4YBMUYAkf7HTXGeIbGMt64/DxMLTRHM6C4MhtsbhVwQsdwe7LjuBBecYUcMuehBeLxwDGoxDZhUBhjuEz9AkTA4rKnP2oQxJybHI3WVj and it seems the driveshafts are different....

This I think is the loom http://www.auto-parts.spb.ru/cat/au/au.mycat?SelPg&t=T3rERIV6xETCesREDSCsfX47nWIcI5nuinDERH4lRHRPesY7r1jASE9MglxPWsTOQikExet63kjVU0BCz3jveeebDAADgPybJorx6PwTHolYIP7aIDjHZR9ypIa/m43aOCx1Av9__c_dCEslC1j0J0feSu5kDownBk8RJmBcVYU/OVoI_mTLxqx7AwdXdTz/3VMGwM2Xkmwf with connector 35 I think is the CC unit connector. :o Are there are other electrical faults on your vehicle? (which may be related) What I would do is first inspect as far back up the cc wiring loom as possible to see if there is snagging/damage. (The wire in question is pin 19 - black/yellow wire) THEN - as this loom carries wiring going to the door gaitors - I would check them for broken/shorted wires - a bit of a long shot, but shouldnt take too long to check. Then I would disconnect the battery (only if you have the radio code!), and check with a multimeter for a short from that pin 19 to chassis. Also from the fuse connection F19 to chassis (one end will go to battery +12v terminal mind) If you have heated washer jets (open bonnet look under the jets) - then disconnect them (electrically). Recheck if short still there... Do you have xenon discharge lights? (Viperclive's suggestion of rewiring an independent fused supply may turn out to be the simplest solution)

Are you sure its fuse 19? Fuse 19 does go to the a/c unit but also supplies many other things (I think as a relay voltage supply)

I suspected as much. The old unit is probably OK, your new unit is flashing because it has an internal fault - i.e. the internal sensor fan may be clogged. You need to find the wiring fault - I'll have a butchers at the circuit diagram later tonight - what is the fuse no that is blowing and what rating? I would start by inspecting the looms going to back of the control unit - look back up them checking for wiring caught/chafed around bodywork metal.

Does it have manual aircon (3 large knobs) or climate control (LCD control panel)?

I'm surprised anyone wants to steal a MK1 or Mk2 Shalaxy except maybe a joy rider or a scrap dealer. Shalaxys cannot be hotwired mumof4! The ecu is the immobisiler and will not cooperate until the immobiliser sequence is complete. Although there are some cars that can be started using a special box of tricks that exploits a weakness in the immobiliser radio protocol, I think this is restricted to keyless entry systems fitted to high cars on some BMW etc. highlighted recently by the BBC. These software weaknesses have, I believe, been patched by the manufacturers. The classic way to steal is to pull it on a recovery truck and drive away - the usual method for high value prestige cars. Most other driveaway thefts are because the theif has got hold of a key - usually stolen from the owners house or (dare I say it?) given by the owner (usually for insurance purposes - they can give them the key back so it all looks hunky dory...) In tahirti's case it may be that one of the three keys (I got 3 with mine) was retained by a previous owner or a clone made and not passed over to him.

The fans were still working though gregs the faulty sensor fan made the unit flash and threw a 65535 error code (unit defective - which technically it was but wasnt if you know what I mean). Before buying a replacement unit, I suggest just removing the unit, disconnecting the 2 connectors (I think) at the back and check if the fuse doest blow without the unit fitted. Its not a common fault as its never been reported here. But wiring faults are relatively common.

From a ford dealer?

You may find it quicker and cheaper to have it done at Kwikfit. A/c systems are filled by weight of gas and not volume or pressure. The a/c machine (as used by all a/c specialists and the dealers) connects to both connections (high pressure is located at the front and low pressure to the side) and the machine vacuums out the refrigerant (high pressure port I think)- weighing it in the process - some lubricant will also be extracted. A vaccum is then held for 20-30 minutes, both to remove any moisture (which boils off) and to check there is no leak (from a hole). It then refills (low pressure port I think) with an accurate weight of R134a and the same amount of PAG oil that was extracted plus 10ml. At kwikfit, if the a/c isnt working better (conditions apply) at the end of the procedure, then you dont have to pay! Otherwise its £49 - during the winter months they usually have a special offer at £39 or £29. The weight of gas required is on a label next to the bonnet catch. There are 2 figures (in grams) - the higher weight is if your car has the true dual a/c system (with overhead rear passenger vents and only one opening rear quarter window). The lower weight is for the standard system fitted on the majority of cars.

I havent a clue what any of you lot are on about. I am not a number.......

Airbag light needs to be reset via diagnostics or VCDS.

^_^ Sorry, I really dont mean offense ;) , but occasionally we get people come on the forum who are not very good at reading and taking the advice given. Not all advice is 100% but is well intentioned and a bit of thought usually sorts most problems. Glad it's sorted. With a little patience you'll sort all the car out and your hate will turn to lurrrve...... Just don't try and fix all problems on the same day - even the most experienced mechanics don't attempt that. If you come against a difficult problem - e.g. the spines on the wipers - don't be afraid to ask - someone will give you a tip you didnt think of. Just about everything that can go wrong on the Shalaxy has been tacked on this forum Slowly,slowly.... BTW, when I said "Have'nt a clue what youre talking about." I meant "I have'nt a clue what youre talking about." - must stop abbreviating my sentences (there I go again!)

It will be immediately apparent when you inspect the wiring - theres a whole bunch in those gaiters, just repair them and you should be OK.

Have'nt a clue what youre talking about. (as usual) If you're talking about the 3 bolts that remove the scuttle tray - yes they need to come out along with the scuttle tray - thats not difficult - it would be impossible to do anything without removing them. As for the pollen filter frame, there is a plastic tang (pictured in my link) that needs to be pushed to release the left hand side which then simply swings out and you pull the filter out with the frame to the left (towards the centre line). You would do well to study the Tech FAQ's and patiently do things step by step instead of blindly undoing everthing in sight. Forgive me if I offend buy you do seem to be a little like a bull in a china shop.

Its called the GEM module and its located behind the fuses under the drivers side dash and very difficult to get to. Its highly unlikely to be the GEM module, it is almost certainly the wiring in the door gaiters that is to blame. It is very very very common for wires to break/become expose and short here due to the constant flexing when doors open and the poor design (no offset) and poor quality wire (insulation that goes hard/brittle). Tech FAQs section has three topics on the subject with plenty of pictures. Just pull back the rubber gaiters on the doors and inspect.

As might this 9. Changing pollen filter in Pictures

Good post and well done. Just a couple of points, all VAG cars use these rigid plastic servo pipes and its very common for them to split at the ends causing loss of vacuum. Loss of vacuum means loss of brake assistance so the pedal will go hard (not soft) and you have to push VERY hard to acheive the same brake effort. You may also experience engine performance problems as the turbo and egr systems are reliant on the same vacuum delivery system - thats what those small pipes at the non return valves are for. Where did you get the replacement parts from and how much did they cost? One for the tech FAQ's I think

no

First check all brake lights are working (if you dont have bulb failure warning display fitted) Then, usually, it is a faulty brake switch (this is a dual switch device) - see Tech FAQs for further details. Cheap(ish) and easy to fix.

What a wazzock, they do not take it to the "max and hold it there" anymore - that is old MOT instructions of 2 or 3 years ago. Now they do not take it above 2500rpm see http://www.motuk.co.uk/manual_740.htm Corrosion of brake pipes? Try cleaning them with an oily rag, I believe they are alloy pipes and should not corrode, they are probably just covered in salt and dirt.