seatkid

Remind me fred, were you the one with solenoid cut off problems? You havent fuelled with petrol? Check the fuses.

Never remove the expansion cap while the engine is hot. To do so is to risk serious injury to yourself and damage to the cylinder head (local boiling) as well as lose coolant. Always replenish coolant with the correct level of G12++ antifreeze (40%). The temperature sensor is a dual device IIRC, possibly its duff. Check the connection to the sensor as well.

Check ARB mountings/bushes and track rod ends.

Should be part no 7M0 609 701 B shown as 1290mm I'm not crawling under my car with a tape measure - do that yourself.

Probably more than big enough. Depending on pram/luggage, you can always tip or remove one of the side/middle seats to give you plently more space. If transporting dogs regularly, probably be better to get the back area divided off. dog divider

did it stall at speed?? what engine/year is it? symptoms are not typical of limp mode

check that when the climate control is set to auto, the main radiator fan should run at half speed. If its not running it could be a faulty fan control module or fan or wiring/connection problem.

Janine,as you can see from the response, you'd probably be better off ebaying the car (in bits to get best return)

toolstation and screwfix branches in Bradford,Keighly and Harrogate all open on Sunday..... Petrol will probably be ok

Check the fuse box in the engine bay for evidence of overheating as below

Personally I would use the spray brake cleaner I always use (Toolstation - about £2.30 a can) - which is a good solvent plus kitchen roll. I note the recomended sealant D 176 404 A2 is a silicone base sealer, instructions being to apply a bead no thicker than about 3mm to prevent bits of sealant dropping into the sump and potentially getting picked up by the oil pump and fit the sump within 5 minutes, i.e. before it skins significantly. The bead should run on the inner side of the sump holes. Again personally I'd probably use this sealant http://volkswagen.workshop-manuals.com/polo-mk4/index.php?id=2542

Did you check all injector wiring loom has been connected along with the main loom connector. Also all the sensor connections (camshaft position sensor??) and fuel piping to the injectors.

Possibly a MAF sensor problem - has it been changed recently - you need to check it has the right type fitted.

It would help if you gave some details about your engine (model,engine code, year)

As mentioned earlier, a frequent problem are the contacts (receptacles) in the fusebox that you push the relays into - they can get pushed down so that the relay spade connectors does not enter fully but just touch the loose receptacle. The clue is when the car moves it dies - movement that allows the connections to seperate. Check the fusebox connections under the relays by unscrewing that layer and looking behind it at those relay bases.

The indicator comes on according to a schedule - oil service comes on after 9500 miles (15,000km) or 12 months, whichever comes first, since last reset (normally at last service). You can choose to ignore it, even reset it yourself, but in all fairness if you want to keep the engine/car in good condition you should get the oil and filter changed and serviced in line with the service schedule. A couple of weeks wont make any difference (VW used to allow up to 1 month/1000 miles over as a limit for warranty purposes)

http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.php/topic/6103-autobox-and-vag-com/?do=findComment&comment=42665

I think its best to get the car running first - the clicking sounds suspiciously like a flat battery. The errors might go away when the car is operating with correct battery voltage.

All diesel sold since 1993 is EN590 compliant, when Euro 1 became mandatory with low sulphur levels starting then, getting progressively lower in 1996 etc with newer Euro standards. The minimum lubricity of fuel has been maintained by additives in the refineries. Only engines built significantly earlier than 1993 would have any issue with lubricity mainly with their (rotary) fuel pumps. Adding 2 stroke will probably increase lubricity so might be kinder to your PD injectors, not that they have any problem with neat fuel. However, 2 stroke oil is not designed to operate under the extreme pressure seen in diesel injectors, so who knows? It may breakdown under 2000 bar and clog them up - especially the cheaper mineral oil types. 2 stroke oil does not contain detergents so no cleaning benefits. Most 2 stroke oils are dyed red which will take a lot of explaining to VOSA if you ever get stopped for a random test. They can detect a ridiculously small level of dye...... Most quality (synthetic) 2 stroke oil is expensive - just as expensive or more than Millers or other "proper" additives - so why bother? Proper additives are specifically formulated to give cleaning, lubricity and cetane enhancement. How about another random addive - acetone?? - no hard evidence it does anything, but has an enthustiastic band of supporters despite the fact that acetone dissolves many plastics/seals etc. The biggest single thing to keep your engine going for ever are regular oil changes (at least at Manufacturers recommendation, preferably more frequently) using quality synthetic oil of the correct specification (VW 505.01 or better still VW 507), and quality filters (genuine or OE like Mann-Hummel). Whether the rest of the car will last another 100,000 miles is another matter.

Spent last 2 days undoing the damage that Hayselden Doncaster did to my car, unrolling bent sills - what a mess. Took the opportunity to tidy the rust thats appearing betwwen sills and wings. I knew there had been some rust on the o/s out rigger, which I thought I addressed a couple of years ago with copious Hammerite - what a waste of time - it's rubbish! So peeling back the stone chip because of telltale rusty mark and after a poke revealed this! Presumably this would be an MOT fail, is it easy to have this fixed? The inside of the outrigger is full of mud and shit and the outrigger hasnt been welded squarely onto the hanging plate (unless some dealer has torn the outrigger away from it - anything is possible with dealers). All in all, bitterly disappointed - this might have been addressed under the corrosion warranty had I bothered to check thoroughly - although IIRC it was only 6 years.

Something wrong, wheel should spin freely and definitely no clicking. Looks as if youll have to strip it down and start again.

Yes Part no. 7M1 819 030 B http://www.auto-parts.spb.ru/cat/au/au.mycat?SelPg&t=dgpkYLwKZGD5CmRgNFAMWUdLPUYlUyEusr5kYEfV5FB2CmYflihgbHY8Inh2KmTqf19bVUKFN3J6S45tRBhkCHYgIQzWjEsFazRZGSoQKrf44AkffGD7HVOJ1dBGt0NlpyrOeAcsxFDdI3dRR4XOSCcIhqxAhF0Df1A5PYNHXMwdQoXuD3y4mAgj_PVMOfbfs9b1LmIudTPHJ2Q=

Unless you removed the crimp, cleaned it out, fluxed it properly and re soldered the crimp back on the power cable with a blow torch, its unlikely you fixed this. This common problem caused by faulty manufacture, usually requires a new cable. The symptoms are heat build up at the crimp which usually damages (melts/chars) the fusebox (in the engine bay)

First thing to check is the wiring in the rubber gaitors to the doors and tailgate. Check for breaks and shorts - very common - photos and further info in the Tech Faqs section.