seatkid

Sensor/ring faults are self resetting once the sensor/ring are fixed and the ABS sees a normal pulse train from all 4 wheels.

Hi, welcome. Most of the more common faults are covered in the Faqs, Common Questions And Solutions (doesnt work with Internet Explorer, requires an alternative browser like Firefox,Chrome etc) Hopefully you wont need this straight away.

Check for vaccum pipe leaks which may be causing it to run lean.

Feedback from this forum. Far too many Galaxy automatics develop problems at high mileage that simply cannot be fixed. Its a general opinion that the Jatco boxes are "on the limit" with a large car like the Galaxy and they simply dont have any way of maintenance - just changing the oil is a difiicult job and never mentioned as a service requirement (which it should be).Towing with an auto is often a very early death for the box. In other words, once an auto starts with a problem it usually scrap. Virtually no problems reported with the manual gearbox (apart from gear selector cables/mechanism which are fixable)

What is the fault code? Pressure deviation fault codes are usually caused by a stuck/sticky turbo vane mechanism (very common).

A MAP sensor or a MAF sensor? (Both exist but the MAF sensor is the usual one that fails)

http://www.auto-parts.spb.ru/cat/au/au.mycat?SelPg&t=9jD8Ej8w/BJlMPwStGqUK8dxpTSlacZKBpD8EsdvfCL2MP5tFhL4HvYGugr2EPyb_2OY2MsXbnr3s6/asupmiIy2ehXCbaVQPgtlZW9BRmDa4fV1VGZPd8S1lRNmkOgeY7x0GDBuCkjqsb2I3XTDPGrh7Tuitvm4GNO3oby2r5SaSCozqTsdCRi_u_M_TkYH6XUSBfTetLX8IvtZ6CT8

Roll restrictor bar is Item 21 on link below (Mk2) fits between subframe and gearbox/bellhousing under car. http://www.auto-parts.spb.ru/cat/au/au.mycat?SelPg&t=ojljDGs5YwwwOWMM4GMLNZN4OirxYBXUkvRjDJNm4zyiOWFzQhtnAKIPJRSiGWOGq22WMZCn7h7K/X2sc52WQCF/4w5zpwLL4M474jPSqP7TU4Kj1XCAYX9mblivMmAGsTbjLG/b6S7NWXtVLrsxUgp3ofApI1pk9xJJvxCUsFRnmPOoK/N_eQhBXRMoXkCRO/GcyX6oLRiGJNUAkXk= Item 18 (Mk1) below http://www.auto-parts.spb.ru/cat/au/au.mycat?SelPg&t=VSh_KpwofirYKH4qF3IWE2RpJwwGccnS6kJ_KmV3/hpVKHxVtQp6JlUeODJVCH5AT7Ieo72ofWvzfIy09UCuKmF_/osdcrjXcd_nUk/90pATh0ZR5h4VeFdrXjIJvfkqwb9NOD8rdJjVBfmlBr5pvHXqPAqbuQpgD0b1WRe9YG_UJgezMxRhLpMrcKxlM49dcXv7I15X9dz1

Never heard of TPMS on a MK2. Might be alloys off an Mk3 which can have TPMS, Mk3's started in 2006.

Changed a drop link again today. Drivers side - again. The last GSF pattern part (~£15) lasted only a little over a year - very poor. As usual with these drop links, physical inspection showed no play, only giveaway is its easy to turn on the ball joints. Problem this time was its one of the newer designs that dont have the handy flats on the shoulder to hold the ball joint bolt with a spanner, only a 12 point XZN spline in the end of the threaded bolt. So using a hex key (I know...) I start undoing the nuts... What I should have done first is soak the protuding exposed thread in penetrating oil first and clean the rusty threads as best I can - it would have avoided the problem I had of the nut seizing up half way off. Of course the spline just rounded off - they all do that according to local mechanic - XZN is rubbish and only any good on new assembly items. After a little panic I sought advice from my local mechanic who was very familar with this common problem and told me his list of remedies in ascending order. His first solution worked fine - use Molegrips really, really tight on the shoulder at the bottom of the thread (on ball joint side where the flats used to be) - spin the nut back in and clean/oil the rusty threads - then undo. Bought a genuine VAG droplink cheap of ebay - some dealer disposing of old stock with opened packaging. Think it was £8. It also has stupid XZN splined ends - but I know the genuine ones are good for about 50,000 miles or more so hopefully I can forget about it. After fitting it, the knocking/banging are gone and its back to tranquility for now. p.s. my roll bar is in a bit of a state - all that stupid plastic coating has gone brittle so I pulled it all off revealing a highly rusted roll bar.

I wonder how many incorrect MOT failure there are on this. The Galaxy and some other cars have a floating strut design that drops when the car is raised and the weight is off the suspension. There is a special section in the MOT manual explaining this. MOT testing must NOT be done with the vehicle raised such that the wheels hang - it must be done with full weight on the wheels.

Eliminate the tyres/wheels first. Change your front wheels for the spare (do one at a time). I had a similar problem when a front tyre (continental sport contact no less) developed internal damage (delamination?). It also pulled to the side with the faulty tyre. I think it was one that previous had a puncture repair but didnt check when it got changed.

Tada! I asked trusted independent that does my MOT's - he recomended his local guy Alan https://plus.google.com/116376877323365791289/about?gl=uk&hl=en Alan took it back to clean metal - he said its condition was good - the underseal had stopped the rot from spreading beyond what I'd poked out, and he made a nice u channel piece and did a smashing welding job plus underseal. Very good price too. Highly recommended. He left me a hole to access the inside of the box section - I'll give it a week or so and wax the inside and re-schutz the outside.

This sounds suspiciously familiar. There was a previous thread that had the same "my glowplugs have a button installed....". Its not the same car is it? 1. Its summertime and glowplugs arent really necessary on this engine, it might take a couple of cranks and occasionally a little smoke/roughness may occur for ~5 secs after a completely cold start . In summer the glowplug light will only light for < 1 second - thats normal! 2. Warm engines should always start first turn - even after a stall What I'm trying to say is the car is likely to have some serious problems that the previous owner (and/or the previous to him owner) have tried to cover with the "button" bodge. Could be it has a timing issue which would probably due a worn bottom timing pulley key and/or a slipping camshaft timing pulley. Another thing to check is the state of the unit injector camshaft - check for wear/scoring which can happen if the wrong spec oil has been used. A scan with VAGCOM/VCDS is also a good starting point to identify any sensor/electrical issues. IIRC a faulty temperature sensor can give starting difficulty and again IIRC check if you disconnect it if it starts better. Let me see if I can find that thread...... This one is similar but its a 1999 Mk1 Tdi http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.php/topic/25532-spill-pipes/?hl=%20glowplug%20%20button

Can only make that judgement by inspection - if changing two cost twice as much as changing one then maybe just change the one. However changing both should guarantee you dont get handling problems (one side hard bushes, other side soft)

Must be being pushed over by the droplinks? Faulty droplink perhaps or maybe one of the arb bushes is shot.

I dont know if the snap-on unit is any good but if it gave an all clear then theres a good chance its the MAF sensor that is faulty. Its difficult to give a definite test for the MAF sensor - the easiest way is to swap it for a known good one. But you can try disconnecting the MAF sensor and driving without, if it drives better without it definitely is the MAF sensor. If you change the sensor, make sure you get the correct part no as there are several versions depending on engine and they all look pretty much alike. Another possibilty is the vacuum pipework has sprung a leak, or more commonly, the vane actuator mechanism in the turbo is seized and requires cleaning (you need to remove turbo for that) but these faults throw error codes (sometimes cryptic) in the diagnostic scan. or perhaps the EGR valve is stuck open (usually through carbon gunk - again needs stripping to clean or replace).

Difficult to be certain, but I just cannot see anything in the drivetrain cause this. Unless there is a "braking effort" on one side the torque to both front wheels must be equal. So I reckon it must be suspension - as it only happens under power it ought to be the front suspension (slight possibilty of one side at right moving causing it to "crab"). I would say check the front control arms and the big bushes in them.

Yes, sounds like a suspension issue.

On level ground, jack the rear wheels up (one at a time) - after chocking the remaining wheels and putting the engine in gear (engine off) to secure the car, release the handbrake and chjeck the rear wheel(s) rotate freely. If not then check the handbrake lever on the caliper is back at the end stop - they often dont go all the way back because of internal corrosion in the caliper or rusted up rear brake cables. another possibilty are seized up slide pins on the caliper that keep one pad on (the outer). Seized slide pins can also affect front brakes.

Try this for a start... http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.php/topic/8810-relay-30-replacement/?do=findComment&comment=68423

gay? I think you mean guy! Mods.....tippex please......

Enjoy your holiday!

Thanks - one for the tech faqs I think - I see this is the work of Mirez, one of our (former?) members..

Wiper fuses on your car are F12 (15A) and F28 (10A)