seatkid

Overgassing will not damage the a/c as there is a 3-way pressure switch to protect it from both underpressure and over pressure. Kwikfit are good if the branch manager there is good, you'll soon get a feel for him....otherwise just walk away and try another branch. They use a fully automatic machine - as most places do. Just make a nuisance of yourself and insist they connect both high pressure and low pressure ports via the two pipes (red and blue) - dont let them fill with just one pipe, no matter what they say. Also stress before they start, "the correct amount of refrigerant is xxx grams" - check it on the plate near the bonnet latch - use the lower quantity for the standard a/c and the higher quantity for the (rare) dual a/c that has roof vents in the passenger compartment - explain that a lot of a/c refill machines dont always have the correct quantity programmed for your car as there are many variants - then, when they give you the automatic report at the end, you can check it has the correct amount before you go. F1autocentres and some other local outfits here are doing regas at

First thing I would check is the rubber gaitor from the door to the A pillar. Pull it back and check the state of the wires, broken and compromised wires are common. Do this for all doors and also tailgate. Also known for the connectors in the pillars to have dodgy connections. These issues are covered in the tech FAQs with plenty of pictures to help you. Otherwise its down to stripping off the door cards and examine everything from wiring and connectors to linkages. Squirting lubricant into the locks may help too.

I'm not familiar with the ford petrol engines, but I would suggest the two possibilities in order of likiehood are water pump failure, or a blocked radiator.

Yeah, I think this is a common problem - the parking brake acuator on the caliper gets rusty inside the caliper housing and it doesnt go all the way back to the stop when released. I do what steve does and squirt some penetrating oil under the lever seal and work it a bit - but as steve says its only a temporary fix and needs checking every few months.

this is the mk1 / mk2 section - go and ask in the mk3 section

Not really required unless you have experienced power steering issues or changed the pump etc. I would think its quite messy to change.

Surely it has central locking? Doesnt locking/unlocking from the passenger side or tailgate unlock the door and release all deadlocks?

On the Mk1 diesels the oil non return valve is built into the oil filter - unless that is......you've fitted an aftermarket filter such as a Fram, or those obscure brands that ECP do, in which case it may not have one at all or be of such useless quality leading to oil drainback and low oil pressure at low revs and potential engine damage particularly due to cold starts with drained back oil and next to no lubrication for several seconds after starting Stick to original filters (VW/SEAT/AUDI branded) or the OEM version made by Mann-Hummel (who make them for VW etc) - these are sold by GSF Car Parts as their "premium" part.

068 115 561 E is the correct Vag part no. MANN make genuine OEM filters (they supply VAG) for your engine the part no is W840/2 available for

If changing drop links I thoroughly recommend Meyle HD parts. Head and shoulders above the rest, even OEM parts. Guaranteed for 4 years, used by taxi drivers (i.e. they last forever) oversized to last and no stupid XZN bolts. Very impressive engineering. I bought from here

Check the (gearbox mounted) engine roll restrictor is not loose or bolt sheared. Common problem.

Well done on fixing it, and thanks for the feedback. I think the fact you mentioned you checked relay 30 was OK in your 2nd post probably stopped people stating... "its probably relay 30"......which in the end.... it was!.... :blush:

Wd40 is very very poor, not at all much of a penetrating oil. My favourite is toolstation's tectane MOS2 penetrating oil http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Automotive/Lubricants%20&%20Sprays/Penetrating%20Oil/d60/sd2795/p62311 Although I've never used it, people are always recommending PlusGas as the ultimate penetrating oil. Your plugs have probably been overtightened. I doubt penetrating oil will reach the threads. I would use a good fitting plug socket and give a couple of knocks with my hands via a suitable long bar/handle in the unscrewing direction, to try and initially crack them.

Try rattling a largish screwdriver up the drain outlets which are located immediately behind the front wheel along the sill lips. Often blocked with silt and stones. The best way to clear properly is to remove wheel liners as Silverbeast says. Easy to do but probably 10 -20 mins per side. Unfortunately you may also find a lot of corrosion on the inner wing in the tight area towards the doors.

It's not the bush thats the problem, its the bolt that has sheared. Needs a high tensile replacement (after getting the threaded part thats probably still there out)

Check your tyres are pumped up to correct pressure. Depending on size fitted, they need quite a lot ( 41-48psi IIRC)

The bulge in the roof is there when you have a sunroof (for the glass to slide into) or when you have a real dual aircon system (there will be vents in the roof over the passanger seat area). Depending on the model and the exact date of production, there may or may not be the rear cover fitted - this became an option at some point. Same for the power points.

On my mk1 diesel the pipe just pulls off easily by hand.

Check all your brake lights work - with and without side lights on. Might be a blown bulb, faulty wiring in the tailgate loom, or a faulty brake switch. Otherwise vagcom/vcds will help further.

PD oil is not necessary for mk1 TDI - engine codes 1Z, AHU, AFN - vw spec 505.00 is sufficient. However for a few pence extra 505.01 spec is considerably better and is usually 5w-30 grade which gives you 2-3 percent improvement in mpg over the 10w40 grades. Even better still is 507 spec oil but its considerably more expensive unless on offer. IIRC there were a handful of end of run mk 1 models that got a PD engine fitted so best check the engine code which can be found on the sticker on the cam cover, on a label in the offside rear wing, or sometimes on the V5 document.

Check the voltage on the starter motor - there should be a permanent 12 volts on the main (thick lead) and 12 volts on the thin cable on the solenoid when the key is moved to the crank position. If that is OK then the starter motor has expired.If no switched 12 volts then investigate ignition switch and wiring.

Why not use a tape measure?

http://www.auto-parts.spb.ru/cat/au/au.mycat?SelPg&t=eAjCNrEIwjbpCMI2OlKqD0lJmxArUY1T1ObCNkhXQgZ4CMBJmCrGOng_hC54KMK/dVuoW9JhK5IQEc4CqNxYeqxhQl/kXA/_SAA4OWT7AEJS2mDgHZkrFN9gKTZKBMEylocCq21fmit4aWEK_U38LlQ57ncouov/tipbbB6_uvsuwQQ1ZYAdQUePgfdPsGLWJugia7EcI3Q5NVSFwA== The tension adjuster is a a two part device (item 16 above) - slacken it by loosening the centre bolt (IIRC either 10 or 13mm), then use an ring spanner or socket on the larger shoulder part (might be 19mm - not sure) to adjust/move the pump and release the belt tension. That bit is a pinion on a rack, to allow adjustment. If it doesnt move easily, you may want to slacken off the top bolt(s) that the pump hangs/pivots on a bit. Belt should then be easliy removed.

Check wiring in door gaitors for damage and wire shorting. Check battery wiring and fuse/power distribution box in engine compartment if its a mk2.

To fault find abs you need vcds/vagcom. It will tell you which wheel is the problem ( or if its a more serious pump/controller failure) Usually its a failed sensor or a broken/rusted sensor ring (both replaceable). You can do a basic check of an abs sensor by disconnecting them and checking with a multimeter to see if they are open circuit. Remove the wheel to gain access to the sensor, you can do a visual check for cable damage, or damage to to sensor ring. Note that once you fix the problem, you have to run the car up to about 20mph before the abs light will go out. There are several threads on the forum, some with pics that would help you with a diagnosis.