seatkid

If its any help the V6 engine is the same VW vr6 engine fitted to many other vw/audi cars of the same year, passat,golf etc

Sounds like classic MAF sensor early symptoms of failure.

Why not just run some silicone sealant (non - vinegar type) around the leaking seal lip? Of course you will need up to 48 hours for it to cure completely.

Remove the MAP sensor - as shown above 1st picture its easy as its on top of the engine on the boost pipe. Clean it out with brake cleaner or similar, they often get gunked up, 5 mins work may fix it.

Good pictures. With Mk2 diesels, often boost problems are misdiagnosed as a faulty N75 valve, but in most cases are sticky turbo vanes/actuator and/or damaged/leaky vacuum pipes. MAP sensors can be faulty, sometimes just gunged up, N75 is probably least likely (but still occurs)

Are you sure the hissing is not from a split vacuum feed pipe to the servo (bulkhead side)? Very common and maybe the metal servo can is transmitting the noise inside.

See my reply in the Questions about section....

As Brian may be suggesting, remove the dial panel and check the operating cables are still attached to the knobs. There is a (vacuum) pipe also - thats for the recirc flap iirc.

No Chris, that part is the boost solenoid valve (N75) and not the boost pressure sensor. The boost pressure sensor is more commonly known as the MAP sensor and on the AUY engine is located in the plastic boost pipework - see item 23 here The part no is 038 906 051 or 038 906 051B dependent on engine no. Readily available on ebay. Mk1 tdi's used to have them inside the ECU which was located as described in the OP's post.

This is a usually due to a common fault, water ingress and corrosion on the control pcb. This module is located on the motor itself. Tech FAQ 60 Removing the module and drying it out can often restore it, if not..... A replacement module is horrendously expensive, probably unobtainable. The two possoble solutions is to source a unit from a scrappers, or be brave and strip the module down. There are pictures somewhere on the forum showing this. The small pcb is conformally coated (fancy lacquer), but often not to the edge of the board.Water gets into the module when it rains, and eventually the moisture gets under the coating causing the copper tracks to corrode and fail - its obvious where the damage is when to examine the board. Using a combination of solvent (try brake cleaner), a stiff tootbrush, a bit of poking and cutting/bridging out the corroded tracks (soldering iron etc required) you may be able to repair it. It has been done a couple of times by some of our members Hope this info helps.

Its not a problem at all. Hot water goes out the top hose to the top of the radiator and flows down. At this time of year the bottom of the radiator and bottom hose should be cold. In winter, when youre using the heater, diesel engines struggle even to warm the the top hose up unless you're bombing down the motorway and have done at least 5 or 6 miles. The only thing to watch is the temperature gauge - if its showing normal, everything is AOK!

From experience of my first Alhambra, what I did from day one on my current car was to insulate the long runs of heater piping that run from the engine to the rear heater under the car with foam cladding thats used on central heating - I used 22mm which is not quite big enough, a slightly larger size would be better. Still in perfect condition after 16 years... Even with a working booster heater on winter trips to eastern europe in winter where temperatures were below -20 deg C, I found that I have to mask off approx 2/3rd of the upper radiator grill to get the temperature gauge to normal.(no engine jacket on Mk1) So I would image the engine jacket would help a bit with heating. As the foam they use on the engine cover and tray just disintegrates after 6 or 7 years, if you really want an engine jacket, I would make something DIY with better heat resistant material. Masking off some of the radiator would be easier though.

Yes, they were fitted on the upper range models, (possibly only after 98 mid life facelift) my 98 alhambra has one fitted, but the basic 96 model I had earlier didnt.

Shocking story! It very likely that some damage has been done, the pistons kissing the valves will have damaged pistons, valves and hydraulic lifters. What can I say? Even if they get it running, ask for a compression/leak down test on all cylinders, preferably this should be done at another independent garage. The garage that did the pump will try to convince you no damge has been done, but even a one tooth slip can cause damage. I would prepare to make a claim against them.

You can get repair kits, new rear calipers can bought off places like eBay for not a great deal more, different story for front calipers though.

Does the loom terminate at a plug in the boot? I.e. can it it be unplugged and pulled back to fit through a new boot?

Could also be fuel pump relay failed iirc relay 109

If its not fuel, I'd check the water pump "drive belt" which is the cambelt, did they change the tensioner and idler rollers too? If not the belt may have slipped. Check the battery voltage is healthy, more than 12.5 volts when stood, ignition off. A diagnostic scan will reveal other sensor issues that can effect starting, e.g. camshaft and crankshaft position sensors..

Can you get replacement boots?

Have you recently topped up with fuel? Maybe petrol instead of diesel?

Could be a split brake hose or line. In any case, a complete and thorough inspection of all brake hoses, lines, calipers etc is recommended as its likely if one item has failed then others are likely to be in advanced state of deterioration also. Better safe than sorry.

This is ridiculous on so many levels. A dump valve opens to dump boost pressure when the throttle plate is closed to stop turbo stall and works by relieving the transient overpressure. However, diesels dont have throttle plates, only petrol engines do. So if you fit one and somehow get it working, you will look and sound ridiculous as you try to accelerate (if thats the correct word to use..) your 2 tonnes from 0 - 60 in a hair raising 20 seconds. and when your device farts, you'll lose all your boost pressure, power will drop close to zero, and the ecu will trip limp home mode. Even if you remap the ecu and somehow bypass the ecu safetys, you will still lose all power every time it farts.

As sparky says, the stiff plastic vacuum pipe that runs from the brake servo is prone to split lengthways at both ends causing a leak and weak or no assistance, particularly at low revs. Also check the similar diameter pipe that runs from the mechanical vacuum pump - dont know where this located on your engine I'm afraid.

on my mk1 diesel (1998 AHU) Slacken the bolt(s) that the pump pivots on just a touch. Slacken the lock bolt that goes through the centre of the toothed adjuster, then use a larger spanner on the toothed adjuster hex shoulder to move the pump to the slack position. Easy when you realise the toothed tensioner is actually 2 devices, a tensioner and a lock bolt.......

One of the plastic carriers or its wire in the window regulator will have broken. Requires new window regulator although if your inclined, you can get new wire kits on ebay and save a few quid. Garages will charge about