seatkid

There are many different lengths of belt fitted, dependant on engine code, year, type of alternator, compressor if fitted, etc etc. An incorrect one was probably fitted - the part no is printed on the smooth side showing the length. I dont think they don't stretch much. Fitting the correct belt will fix the problem. Note that this style/width of belt is fitted to many other cars and so there are many many lengths available virtually every other mm. You can always fit the old belt back for the time being...

As you have a Mk2, then if the unit has suffered more than 3 succesive flameouts in a row, then the unit locks out and needs to be reset via diagnositics (VCDS). The thermoswitch that controls it is situated in a clip just above and in front of the pollen filter. Removing the engine scuttle panel will reveal it. It is a switch, so shorting it out should start the unit (unless its locked out)

Found a German site where they stripped the cc control unit down with photos and mentioned the 65535 fault and stuck fan. I've not been able to find it again though.

Correct belt for 2005 diesel with cc (single/dual) is 06A 260 849 C 21,18 X 1195MM http://www.auto-parts.spb.ru/webcat/au/au.mycat?SelPg&t=Pg_ZAP0PmQCuD5kAfFXxOQ9OwCZtVheoij_ZAA5QGTA_D5t/3i2dDD493xg_L5lqLKXiJqrzP9JzOTnaMxWN9QNP8QBkujexXNu/aqERRftyk/R8GRcP30SyDDEgTFgAv4YMe7aj80iAz7myCsuiKxYK8ZhuzsMd54jMWFpdcZejpNCJYGf_KXCAXkaKPm3Qw4QgIqIn0UdqVYEA

Recommended cam belt interval is 40,000 miles / 4 years on mk 2 diesels iirc anyway

You'll have to give us your chassis no. :49:

Probably as Brett says, The AHU alternator should not have the one way clutch as the AHU does not have a DMF. To be sure check the number on the alternator end housing.....mine (AHU Bosch 120A) is 028 903 025S / 0 123 515 014 Check the aircon compressor is turned off, as the belt drives that. Also is the belt streched or fitted incorrectly and maybe the tensioner hitting its end stop?

12v power in the glove box? Do you mean the light?

Ah, they probably swapped the vacuum actuator off the old unit and not adjusted it correclty.

Yes, the correct glowplug is vital. They havent changed the physical design of the glow plugs.

This may be something to do with the climate control sensor fan (housed in the unit behind the slatted bit). On my Mk1 I established the the fan had stuck (dust and fluff) and it threw a flashing fault even thought the cooling worked. VAGCOM (earlier version to VCDS lite) reported it as 65535 Memory fault IIRC which was actually incorrect as 65535 should be fault (indeterminate) - in other words CC reported it was faulty, but no description was available. "Speedometer" might again be refering to the sensor fan, which is monitored for rotation and the G22 message is just some sloppy coding from Rosstech. Anyway, to cut this long winded reply to the quick, I used a small brush and a vaccum cleaner to suck the dust out and free the fan. If you place your ear next to the sensor air inlet and turn the ignition on (not the engine) you should hear a gentle whir from the fan. Good luck.

Correction to previous post - the later variant has 5mm longer thread (I think) http://www.vwspares.co.uk/alhambra2_electrical.php for further info

Bosch online catalog lists two variants for AUY engine before 11/2001 part no 0 250 202 022 11/2001 onwards part no 0 250 202 023 This shows the two variants (three manufacturers) based on chassis no. the later variant is 5mm longer. I tend to keep old parts to match up.

If the distance from the tip to the seat is different then yes. The tip should sit in the combustion chamber in the spray path. Wrong plugs.

On the Mk2 diesels the water pump is driven by the timing belt. Makes sense to change it as it has to come off.

Check the wires in the rubber gaitors to the driver/passenger doors. Shorts here cause all sorts of wierd problems.

If its a mk2, when you get a turbo related fault (usually under or over boost), the ecu will trip into limp mode and stay in limp mode until the ignition is turned off and back on. So its probably still sticky vanes, I'm afraid.

I think this is either due to a vacuum leak, or incorrect actuator adjustment - usually following a turbo change.

And as posted elsewhere, if its a Mk2 (or Mk1 AFN) it doesnt have a wastegate. Its a variable vane turbo and the variable vane mechanism inside the turbo is the usual point of trouble (made up with carbon and gunge).

Presumably you have a mk2. Its not a waste gate on your turbo but a variable vane mechanism located in the turbo - sometimes also called a variable geometry turbo. The seized bit is the mechanism inside - it will be made up with hard carbon. Only way to free it is to strip it down and use aggressive cleaners. Some people have successfully used various commercial turbo cleaners - do a search to found out more.

1st fault means the boost pressure was too low and out of range. This is usually due to a seized/sticking vane actuator on the turbo (mk2 diesels and mk1 110bhp models) or a leak in the vacuum hoses of the actuator control circuit. This results in very little power. 2nd fault is either faulty abs sensor/broken abs ring or connector/wiring fault. The abs light should be lit indicating a fault in the abs system.

Mot fail if corrosion causes structural weakness (i.e. the metal punches through when tapping with a hammer, leaving a hole/split etc) within 30cm of any safety related load bearing point e.g. seat runner mounting points, seat belt mounting points etc, To repair, clean thoroughly, unroll/unfold squashed bits (slowly) with pliers, footprints etc, maybe a little hammer bashing to straighten things up etc, clean up again, make sure to remove corrosion with wire brush, file, or light grinding and treat if necessary/possible. Any holes in the sills/ underbody will need plating over - see your local bodyshop/welder. Prime with zinc based anti rust primer or something suitable for galvanized steel, paint, and seal if required. Sounds more difficult than it is in practice as the metal is pretty malleable. http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Painting+Decorating/Spray+Paints/Industrial+Primer+500ml+Grey/d150/sd2737/p92867 http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Painting+Decorating/Spray+Paints/Industrial+Paint+500ml+Jet+Black/d150/sd2737/p12268

Instead of flushing oil, just change the oil more often. If the internal cleanliness of the engine is of concern, just do the normal oil/filter change, then drop the oil after 1k miles and refill with new. The majority of contamination in diesel engine oil is soot and is readily dispersed by modern oils.

I totally recommend Millers diesel power Ecomax. Keeps the injectors clean (low smoke/emmisions/maintains good mpg), increases cetane (runs smoother, quieter idle, easier starting) and supposedly improves lubricity (longevity of pump/injectors). Its not an aggresive additive (safer), comes from the UK and a reputable oil company (Millers). Works on all counts for me. All additives require time to do their stuff so expect gradual improvements over 3 to 4 tanks. Wouldnt trust any product from USA. (Slick50 killed my passat......)

Try the 25 amp fuse, otherwise its a wiring issue. I would check around the "hedgehog" resistor pack that accessible via the glovebox for loose connections and/or wiring damage (it gets very hot so could have melted some insulation if the wire laid on it).