seatkid

Most likely the connector receptacles open up over time with the vibration and become either loose or prone to oil containment causing either a poor or intermittent connection. Other possibility are receptacle crimps become insecure or wires break internally.

What zorgman was trying to say ... http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.php/topic/16434-19tdi-lost-your-instruments-then-read-this/

Wgr is ford model number for mk1/mk2. Wa6 is Ford model number for mk3. I think the vag model numbers are 7m8 for mk1 and 7m3 for mk2

I am not a mind reader... :25: :25: :lol:

The MAF sensor does not throw a fault code, unless the output is stuck high or low, e.g. wiring fault. If you've eliminated the MAF sensor, then check the maze of vacuum piping as any leak or blockage will stop the turbo boosting. Look for splits, perished and disconnected pipes at joints. Blockages form (gunge) in the pipe to the MAP sensor (located in the ecu in the case of the mk 1). With mk2 and 110bhp variants mk1 (vnt) there is a vacuum accumulator, (a small plastic sphere), check the pipe to that is intact.

Recharge the battery, get it restarted then check for charging voltage of 14.3 volts at the battery when running. Likely culprit is the engine fuse/power box, check for signs of overheating/melting. If so then the thick cable from the alternator almost certainly has a faulty crimp. New cable or new crimp is required and a new box if its badly damaged. If not the above the a faulty alternator is the next suspect.

As Richy says check the rigid vacuum pipes for splits, usually at the ends, e.g. at the servo, at the pump or at the joins. Common fault across all VAG models due to poor plastic used. Also check the smaller flexible vacuum pipes that feed the turbo control system. You can effect a temporary repair by binding the pipe with amalgamating tape.

The bendix is designed to release when you stop supplying power, i.e. when you release the ignition key.

I think that means PATS is preventing you starting. VCDS would confirm. When you changed the barrel, did you disconnect the reader coil? BTW don't have two car keys on your keyring - that can confuse the reader.

Central locking has nothing to do with the pats. Does the door led flash away when attempting a start? A scan with vcds is the next logical step.

Sounds like a Pats fault, do you have the keys of the donor car? Did you change the ignition barrel so the correct key is being used.The pats chip is in the key and is programmed to the ecu. You can pull/swap the chips in the key if they are both remote fob types cos you can open them easily (but take care not to lose the chip as it often drops out). You can't do that with a standard key, cos they are sealed, so you may still have to change the barrel.

Check the numerous threads inc the FAQs. For example, iirc there is a fine gauze that should glow red hot and keep the flame going. That is one item that erodes away leading to incomplete combustion (white/grey smoke)

I think you'll struggle to find any half decent example at

Only if it actually "flame outs" or doesnt fire up. More than just glow plug when unit is smokey.....

Good news... But shows the importance of checking against original items and not relying totally on Halfords/ECP/GSF catalogues.

I would look for air leaks around inlet manifold, e.g the vacuum pipes that supply the brake servo, they often split.

Like this? http://uk.farnell.com/cml-innovative-technologies/01144800/lamp-bi-pin-t1-12v-0-72w/dp/1139279 Search for 12v bi-pin t1

Check the arb bushes/mounts both front and rear also. Check your spare wheel is not loose.

If you fitted a 6dpk1195 belt then you must have an incorrect alternator pulley and/or tensioner/pulley fitted. There are two alternator pulleys listed on GSF one is 61.5mm dia other is 55.5mm dia. Likewise there are two different tensioners listed. the correct one is shown here

VCDS an acronym for "VAG-COM Diagnostic System" software is for volkswagen group (VAG) cars, therefore only works on the modules of VW origin. Your petrol engine is Ford so VCDS cannot read the ECU etc.....

Are you pressing the front or the rear window heated switch? Mirror problems will be gaitor related. Revs may be dropping as the mirror heaters and heated washers will be activated.

My front windows were a bit stiff, I used silicone spray on the window felt runners and it was a lot better. No need to remove door cards. On the other hand, if it jammed completely and if there was any grinding or unusual noises then that would indicate the wire is getting fouled around the main pulley. In that case, a strip down is required, you might rescue it before its damaged too much - check the motor mounting screws are tight, cos (on the fabia at least) it also allows the pulley to flop about. The pulleys etc are all nylon and don't require lubrication. Hope that helps.

hope you got the AWX ecu with it, I doubt your old AUY ecu will work with it...

Its dependant on the the thermoswitch hung on the wiper mechanism. Its a conventional bimetallic switch.

Thats because going uphill demands more power/torque, i.e. more turbo boost. - we're back to the the sticky vanes or leaky vacuum pipes again. She might be able to fare better by changing down a gear when going uphill - that will demand less boost.