insider

I found this on the Superchips website: http://www.superchips.co.uk/curves/vagtd115.pdf First issue is that the "original" torque curve peaks at 283Nm when I understood that the peak torque for 115 (and 130 and 150) engines is 310Nm? Secondly, the reason for the peak torque being 310Nm is that the gearbox is rated at 350Nm maximum. As the Superchips curve goes above this between 1700 and 3000 rpm anyone that's had a remap done by Superchips is risking a gearbox failure. Also, the maximum torque for the auto gearbox is probably lower again. Does anyone know if the engine maps are different between autos and manuals, i.e. to reduce the torque from 310Nm for autos? If so, perhaps Superchips have used the torque curve for an auto to exaggerate the difference? Anyway, I agree with gio, 10% is a sensible increase in torque (310 to 341Nm) to keep it within the limit for the gearbox.

Welcome to the site and congratulations on your purchase! The colour will be Platinum.

You're a glutton for punishment then?! :lol:

A bit drastic sending your car to the breakers for the sake of a bit of wiring! :P

I think they're part of the secondary air injection system that's there to allow the engine to meet emissions regulations. It may (or may not!) affect your MOT on the emissions test. As to why they're blowing off, perhaps there's a fault in the system that's causing excessive pressure?

There should be a connector just before it goes into the body. I agree, use axle stands and the jack and ensure that the car is on a flat, solid surface. I'm sure a good MOT inspector would have found it.

Should be easily accessible if you remove the rear wheel. It should be on the front just behind the disc shield. Any fault in suspension is potentially serious. When was the last MOT? If it wasn't noticed then it must have developed since. If it's developed that quickly then how soon before it fails? On the bright side, a new bar is easy to fit - six bolts off and the new one back on again (make sure you renew the bushes too).

Have you checked the intake side for leaks, air cleaner, intake manifold, etc.? They can sometimes make just as much noise as the exhaust.

Which number fuse is it? The fuse is blowing because there is a short circuit somewhere. Either some of the wiring has become damaged or one of the components in the circuit has failed. Unfortunately I think the fuel pump is in the fuel tank and not easy to get at but you could check the wiring from the fuse for signs of damage and as far along it as you can get!

My understanding so far is that the cheap ebay boxes are just resistor boxes and fool the ECU into over-fuelling the engine. This crude way of doing it could be what causes many of the problems experienced by some forum members. The more expensive boxes (Dragon, DPT, Diesel Bob, etc.) apparently work by modifying the signal from the ECU to the fuel rail, hence the ECU knows nothing about it. They also modify the signal differently across the rev range so the result is much less crude than a simple resistor. Having got the opinions from tuning box suppliers and engine re-mappers (and one that does both), the results were not particularly surprising: TUNING BOXES - remapping is more difficult/expensive to return to original; remapping gives maximum power gain but reduced engine life; tuning boxes are best because they safely increase power, torque and mpg. REMAPPERS - remaps are best because many different engine factors can be changed to suit your car; tuning boxes are easily removed so that you can take them off and sell them when you realise they are no good. BOTH - we use both and even together in some applications, i.e. remapped engine + tuning box; tuning boxes are best for DIY; remapping can be "pot luck" because you are changing some parameters without knowing whether it is safe. Biscuit - what are your experiences with the tuning box? Do you use your car for towing? Another member had a bad experience with a remapped engine when towing. In fact, I haven't seen any detrimental experiences on the forum with tuning boxes, only cars that have been remapped. How has your mpg been affected? (honest answer please!) If it's got worse is it outweighed by the increase in performance you are getting?

Which bit is twaddle? I thought the comment on the brakes made sense. As I mentioned previously, I thought the brakes were the same on all models. And, as gio says, they would only make a difference if you are going faster than the car was originally designed for.

Yes, it's live with the ignition off. You've also got another one in the back!

Can't post attachments at the moment for some reason, otherwise you'd have a diagram. Anyway it is the connector in the bottom-right corner - 12 pins (2 rows of 6) - of the board with fuses 51-62 in a row on the opposite side.

Will a diagram do? (I assume you have the 5-speed box) The correct level is to the bottom of the fill hole.

The outer bezel is prised off (3) The inner part is unscrewed (4) bottom

Depends on the model - Ghias have (red) door lamps in the bottom outside edge. You might just have a reflector or nothing at all in which case you could ignore that step.

I was editing as you were replying!

I don't think the voltage pulses would have damaged the C/L module because it would see those voltages normally anyway. So, hopefully you'll be able to get it going again by checking for damage to the wiring. When you do get it going again I think you need to connect to the yellow and yellow/black wires - pins 4 and 10 on the connector. (You were connected to pins 8 and 11). Sorry - just noticed that you were connecting in the door not at the fuse box. You would have been connected to pins 3 and 5 on this connector but need to connect to pins 2 and 9 - also yellow and yellow/black wires. To remove the door panel: 1. Prise out and remove the window switch panel. Disconnect the multiplug. 2. Prise out and remove the door lamp. Disconnect the multiplug. 3. Prise out (from the centre) and remove the door latch bezel. 4. Remove the retaining screw. CAUTION: Start with the clip at the bottom of the outside edge of the panel and then carefully release the remaining retaining clips. 5. Remove the door trim panel (11 clips).

For a '96 car I believe fuse 30 is for the central locking and fuse 37 for the windows. These are described as being under the dash on the driver's side. Unfortunately I can't be more specific than that!

Is the central locking working OK now then? The wire colours I mentioned earlier were for the Mk 2 which uses a different system. When you let me know the colour you connected to I should be able to work it out.

If you go here - http://www.ford.co.uk/ie/configurator - you can configure any of the Ford cars with various options etc. and in any colour (as long as it's black :) ) Sorry, just noticed you're in Belgium. This facility is also available from the Belgian website (http://www.nl.ford.be). My Flemish isn't good but I think you need to choose "Stel uw eigen voertuig samen" from the "Showroom" menu. Alternatively, if you're anywhere near Genk perhaps they'll let you go and watch them build the cars!

The thermostat housing is bolted to the cylinder head (3 bolts) but you'll need to remove the battery cover to get at it.

Have you tried a VW or Seat dealer? The engine and gearbox are VW units also used on Sharans and Alhambras.

Firstly, determine which model Galaxy you have. Now, remove the wires you connected from the alarm to the door lock wiring, i.e. return them to the original condition before you added the alarm. Does the central locking work OK on all doors now? If not, then you might have damaged something. If not, what colour wires did you connect the alarm to? If they are black/red or green/yellow or green/blue then it could explain why only the driver's door and fuel filler cap were affected. What signal is the alarm wire supplying? I assume it would be 12v when the alarm is activated and 0v when it is not?

Probably Mk II but check here - http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.ph...mp;#entry112432