insider

They used to be illuminated on pre-2004 models but were deleted as part of the "face-lift", presumably as a cost reduction. Don't drink in the dark!

Take your pick - http://search.ebay.co.uk/search/search.dll...satitle=vag+com The software will be the "shareware" version but you'll be able to do most things with this. Search this forum, there's plenty of information here on VAG-COM.

One or more glow plugs failed? http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.ph...st&p=128660

Try not putting the fuel pump nozzle into the filler too far.

There is only one thermostat. It is either in the housing (up to '98) or within the T-piece (from '98). The Haynes manual is correct that the T-piece type assembly must be renewed complete. However, I doubt that the thermostat is at fault if you are not experiencing abnormal variations in engine temperature, e.g. slow warm-up, overheating, etc. Have you checked the idle speed control valve? It could also be the lambda sensor (in the exhaust) or faulty injectors. Perhaps you could invest in an engine fault code reader or have a diagnostic check done by a garage? (Note: VAG-COM won't work because you have a Ford engine)

As it's parked "nose down" could it be getting in through the top of the rear door seal and travelling along the headlining to the front?

2004ish

Contact Consumer Direct (some advice here - http://www.consumerdirect.gov.uk/before_yo.../dealer#named2). They'll probably recommend that you return the car to the Dealer, give them a time limit in which to fix the fault and if it isn't done to refund your money. They can't just give up and say they can't fix it!

You have to question what caused the old belt to fail. From what you describe it could be that the A/C compressor is siezed so that when the old belt tried to turn it, it couldn't so it snapped. The new belt, being stronger (wider), remained intact and stalled the engine instead. It sounds to me that the mechanic is right in what he suggests.

Check the resistance of each using an ohmmeter. When cold, the plug should read a couple of ohms. If it is any higher than this then it won't heat up quickly or maybe at all. You shouldn't have to remove the glow plugs to test. Just remove the electrical connector, put one of the ohmmeter leads on the terminal of the glow plug and the other to a nearby ground point, e.g. cylinder head. This might be useful from the FAQs - http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.ph...ost&p=46206. It's for a MkI but the principle is the same for any other diesel engine.

Correct. On TDIs the speed is controlled by the ECU so you are looking at electrical faults. Brake or clutch switches could be the cause but it could also be the cruise control / indicator stalk switch or even a break in the wiring to the ECU.

This is just another one of those engine "mods" that fool the ECU into thinking the intake air is cooler (denser) than it actually is so more fuel is supplied to the engine. The result will be an over-rich mixture and increased fuel consumption. Modern engines are finely tuned to be as efficient as possible and to remain within emissions limits. In fact, the ECU will probably try to compensate by reducing the fuelling again when the lambda sensor tells it the mixture is too rich. It might even throw up a fault code thinking the intake air temp. sensor is giving a faulty reading! As always if it was this cheap and simple to increase power without any long-term ill effects then the Manufacturers themselves would be doing it. This mod is likely to do more harm than good.

Sounds like an electrical fault that caused the battery to go flat in the first place. Check for a short circuit in the alarm, hazard lights, central locking wiring.

He was suggesting she abuse her admin rights to get rid of this post and hide any evidence of alleged fraud!

Perhaps one (or more) of your glow plugs is faulty. This would not affect the time that the ECU switches them on for but would lead to longer, more difficult starting as one of the cylinders would be cold. Take each one out and test them.

The glow plugs are controlled by the ECU. The ECU receives an engine temperature signal from the cylinder head temperature (CHT) sensor and this determines the preheat time. The lower the temperature, the longer the preheat time. Maximum preheat time is 8 seconds at -20

Wire colours should be: Stop lamps - black/red Tail lamps - grey/black (LH), grey/red (RH) - later models changed to grey/blue (LH), grey/yellow (RH) Reverse lamps - black/blue Fog lamps - grey/white Indicators - black/white Heated screen - black Wiper motor - green/black, black/yellow Number plate lamp - grey/green Ground - brown

Perhaps take it back to the people who did this work for you? - http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.ph...st&p=128532

There's a mistake somewhere: 1.8 peak torque is 285Nm at 1,750rpm 2.0 peak torque is 340Nm at 2,000rpm (for comparison the 1.9 VW engines in the MkII have a peak torque of 310Nm at 1,900rpm)

Only the petrol engines have chains (2.0, 2.3 and 2.8), the diesels all have belts. Incidentally, we've all assumed that singh was looking for a diesel? If not, then there wouldn't and shouldn't be evidence of a timing belt change in the service history!

Perhaps the variable vane mechanism is stuck preventing the turbo reaching the required boost pressure? There are posts on here somewhere relating to how to unstick it.

I would suggest that, from a legal point of view, whether the brakes are applied automatically by the car or manually by the driver that the brake lights would have to be lit.

Rather than getting it chipped I would take it back to the Dealer and get them to re-programme the ECU. There is clearly a problem with the engine calibration if you are having to slip the clutch to the extent you describe. It's likely that an ECU software update is necessary and would solve these problems.

I'd question what caused the pistons to fail that prematurely. It's unlikely that not servicing it within 2000 miles of the recommended interval did.

Don't worry about that - it means your auxiliary booster heater is working! Check the forum - plenty of references to this.