SilverBeast

Look at the dimensions one is approx 5mm narrower and 5mm smaller in diameter, though the dimensions table on the one which has one doesn't tally with the diagram!.

Removal instructions for bulkhead panel here The how to shows the single piece wiper trim panel for the later models. I have always removed the panel on mine as I have never been able to manoeuvre the bulkhead out without removing this. There are instructions on removing this as part of this how to.

A bit quicker then! I suggest you update your signature.

Not 100% sure but here's what I think. (i) When on Auto it turns the air con on and off as required. (ii)When On ECON it never uses the air con (iii) If you press the windsceen/demist button on the climate control modle it will turn on the heated front screen (if fitted) and the air con to the front screen as air-con extracts moisture from the air too (which is why you get drips from the front (and rear for rear air con) of the car. (iv) If you adjust the front temperature the rear temperature will track it. (This will be remembered and be the default for AUTO) (v) If you adjust the rear temperature it can only offset one way up or down (I can't remember which) by a few degrees. (vi) If you manually adjust the fan speeds or vent directions it drops out of AUTO, but will still use the aircon as required. I suggest you have a play with the controls (while parked) and see what it will let you do. I leave it on AUTO all the time (not ECON) as it will exercise the system moset weeks and prevent any seals drying out. Most cars recommend you turn air-con on at least once a month for this reason. I suggest you also check air and pipe temperatures as I did above and report back. If you believe there is an issue, connect to the Climatronic module with VAG-COM and check for any faults (just for this module). Record then clear these, run the car and see if they come back. Report back. While your at it I suggect you also check the Rear Heater (Booster Heater) for fault codes. And make sure the run-on/auxilliary coolant pump is running with the ignition on (car not started). The Auxiliary coolant pumps on the 130 and 150's don't run after switch off, only while the ignition is on.

Just been outside and checked by running car at tickover for less than 5 minutes. Set aircon to auto and LO (by lowering front temperature setting as far as it will go). This sets it running permanently. Closed all rear vents apart from middle row middle vent (so I can stick my hand in front of it from drivers seat). The air temperature out of middle dash vent and rear middle row middle vent get to pretty much the same temperature. The fatter of the two pipes under the car gets noticeably colder and the thinner one warms up. I had the same confusion about the recirculate mode. This just means that the rear cooling (and I believe the heating) always draws air from inside the car. As I understand it front cooling (and heating) draw air from outside UNLESS the recirculate mode is selected, in which case it is drawn from within the car. Mine will cool the front air temperature to below 8C at the centre vent if that is the only one open in the car and you leave it long enough.

Actually i meant this one. Still on the other site though....at least that one still works for uploading photos

Having looked at how the system works here i'm not convinced that the pipes will have a different temperature. The ones I have checked in the engine bay are probably either side of the condenser. I'll check mine next time I get to use the a/c in anger - I only have a 20min drive to/from work so it probably doesn't get into it's stride. I did a trip from York to London and back to Otley (Leeds) earlier this week (average 51.1mpg!) to deliver my son's stuff to his flat, but as the car was loaded floor to ceiling from the back of the front seats to the hatch, I'm not sure it would have been a good test of the rear-aircon!

Make sure they check or replace the Dual Mass Flywheel and the slave cylinder if you get it replaced as either will need it removing again (the slave cylinder is inside the housing)

I think it draws the air in from the rear passenger compartment through the holes at the base of the left hand rear wheel inner cover. Sort of in line with the back of the middle row left hand rear seat where the feet of the third row left hand seat. This then goes through the cooling evaporator matrix and is directed through the ducting in the left hand rear D pillar (behind the third row left hand top seatbelt mounting, which is why you don't get a nearside opening back window). Further ducting takes the air to the roof vents. I've never particularly checked the rear roof vent temperature. To check it I close all the vents apart from in the middle of the dash, turn off the fan in the back and set the front to "LO". It gets down to 6-8C air temperature from the middle vents, which is better than the mobile air-con man gets in his S-Max. Things I suggest you check:- (i) There are four pipes going to the back nearside wheel arch under the floor of the car. Two are for the heating and are the same diameter (they pass through the booster heater). The other two are for the air-conditioning. From memory these are both narrower than the coolant pipes and one is narrower than the other. With the airconditioning running I believe one should be cold and the other hot, though I have never checked the ones under the car. You can compare the temperatures with those under the bonnet at the front of the engine where the fill valves are. If they are both the same temperature then I suspect it isn't operating as it should. (ii) Air intake from the passenger compartment isn't blocked. I've never checked it does bring it in there as described above, it may come from inside the storage compartment in the left rear arch. I'd get the vaccum hose extension on it. (iii) I believe the crud Gregers refers to coats the internal temperature sensor in the dash control module, again vacuuming the small slots wouldn't do any harm. I believe there is a fan in there that can stop turning if it gets too much fluff in it. I wouldn't expect this to be causing your problem though. VAG-COM/VCDS see the controller as the Climatronic. There is at least one temperature sensor in the compartment on the left of the rear compartment, but I believe you have to remove the panels to get at it.

I seem to remember someone on one of the Forums had to put some extra load in the back (kids I think) to get the self-leveling mechanism to readjust itself.

Probably best to scan for faults with VAG-COM/VCDS. It may be pursue sensor or wiring to it. Of its on the same page as the diesel is being bumper and in front of drivers front wheel. East to get at if you remove the front bumper cover.

You don't need to disconnect the battery either. Just make sure all the lights are off.

Could it be a series of clicks, very close together? If so it may be one of the relays. I would first check the engine bay fuse box in front of the battery to see it isn't overheating/melted. If it is this could cause the village to drop enough to cause the relays to chatter. I would expect this to stop once engine is running as village from the alternator would raise the whole vehicle voltage level. This is simple to check which is why I would check it first. While you are at it check the battery voltage levels if you have a voltmeter as a falling battery could cause the same thing. Most likely culprit though would be the for and hatch gaiter wiring breaking/shorting as this can give all sorts of strange effects as circuits that were never intended to be linked get intermittent shorts. As you believe it may be linked to rear wiper I would look for a junction block in the drivers rear access panel (right hand side in the boot where the jack etc are stored) that can be disconnected to isolate the rear hatch wiring. I'm not sure if there is one but someone will be along soon who does know. If you can disconnect here and the whirring stops it will be more than likely the worrying in the right hand hatch gaiter.

It's not the squelch as the fuel pump pressurises when you first turn on the ignition is it?

The MOT tester should check operation of the lights for airbags and abs to check they come on with the ignition and then go out after the system self check. So if you do as suggested above it should fail its MOT.

Should be quicker this time!! Did you remove the whole mechanism in the end or manage to do it in-situ?

There is a chip in the key that is paired with the immobiliser. It is passive in that it doesn't use a battery. If there is a problem with the immobiliser it stops the car from being used. A coil around the ignition switch connects to the chip wirelessly to check it is valid for use in that car. This prevents someone from cutting a key and just using that. I'm not sure how it works on the petrol engine cars. In some instances it stops the starter from turning over. On the diesels the car will start but only run for a few seconds. The diesel engined cars use vw engines, but the 2.0 and 2.3 petrol engines are Fords so I'm not sure how it inhibits use. You are in the right place for someone to tell you though. When the immobiliser inhibits starting the led on the drivers door flashes in some fashion, again someone more knowledgeable will be along to let you know how. If you have another key with a similar passive chip in it on the same keyring it can interfere with it and can cause it not to start. I would expect a garage to know this and have eliminated that as the problem though.

The power steering whine, particularly on lock, is normal. If it is immobiliser related like Chris suggests. (i) Try a spare key if you have one. (ii) Make sure you don't have any other car keys on your keyring as if they also had a passive immobiliser chip built into them then this may interfere.

Battery Junction Box? Not sure if it would cause starter to fail, but the current for the starting circuit must pass through it as it is the only high current link to the battery. If it's faulty and drops voltage then all sorts of weird things happen with the electrics. Would expect dash lights to flash and clicking from relays near drivers knee while trying to start if this was the case. The garage will have been blaming the aircon or power steering pump as these are both driven from the auxiliary drive belt, along with the alternator (which charges the battery - sorry if you already know this but it can be useful for viewers trying to fix their problems who don't). Any drag on these can put extra load on the engine, and hence starter motor when starting. Personally I wouldn't expect it to damage the starter motor, and the drag would always be there and I would think it would be noticeable when driving (decreased performance). (i) Alternator - has a one way clutch in it which can seize, wouldn't expect it to affect starting though. (ii) Air con - Pump can seize. If you turn the aircon off (ECON on Climate Control models) should disconnect as it has an Electric Clutch. Again I would expect driveabilty to be noticeably worse if it was seized. (iii) Aircon has an electric clutch - This could seize on? Not sure if ECU switches off aircon while cranking to reduce load - it would make sense to do so - but would cause extra load when starting if clutch has seized in the connected position. (iv) Power Steering pump - This is always driven, but if it is dragging/seizing it would give extra load when starting. You have probably noticed the extra load/whine when steering is on lock while parking. This is because that is the point at which the power steering is working at it's hardest and putting the most load on the engine. If it is parked with the steering on full lock (not to be confused with the steering lock on - that is the mechanical security lock in the steering column) then there will be extra load on the engine. I have been reading this Galaxy Forum,since before I bought mine, in 2010, and have read most of the threads in the MKII forum since that point and I don't recall reading any particular issues with the starter motor that you are describing. Unfortunately it doesn't mean it can't happen though.

This link details the Relay 30 problem in the Frequently Asked Questions section of this site. The contributor also had a 2001 2.3 Yes it does stop the starter motor turning as described in the link. Basically some solder joints in the relay fail over time. It's fairly common. They can usually be remade but most people just replace the relay. It's relatively quick and a lot simpler than replacing the starter motor. Should be cheaper too! Were the removed starter motor's tested to make sure they were faulty after removal?

Please describe the symptoms as you see them, rather than what the garage has told you? (i) Does it NOT turn over at all? All the time? Some times but getting worse? (ii) Does it turn over slowly or as "normal" ?

Possibly, but by the time you have got access to it (wipers off, trim panel over wipers off, scuttle panel off) it's just as easy to remove the three extra bolts and remove the whole mechanism. It'll make it a lot easier (and comfortable) to change the motor too, without the risk of dropping stuff (bolts/screws/washers/nuts) down onto/behind the engine and into the undertray (if you are lucky). Was going to upload a picture of motor in situ with all the above removed but Forum appears to be being an arse and still not allowing uploads

I had a bulb that wasn't contacting properly on mine. Try removing both bulbs wiping contact with fine sand/emery paper and refit. See if they both feel like have the same spring resistance when refitting.

Check the model of the Aux Heater first. The later Galaxy's (and presumably the Sharan's) had a D5Z-F which has a ceramic glow plug which I understand is more reliable. The controller isn't though but I personally believe (based on my owning a 2005 Galaxy TDI 130 and reading the Forums) that is mainly damaged by overheating when the Auxiliary Coolant/Over-run Pump brushes wearing out and no longer circulating the water through the rear heating circuit. Again from reading the Forums, this seems to happen around 80k miles as it is running all the time the ignition is on.

As the controls for the other windows are also in the drivers door i would disconnect the connectors for all the other doors as a short in the wiring in those doors may be linked up when the wires. Does sound like all the door and the tailgate harnesses need a good check over