SilverBeast

If it's like the MKII Galaxy then yes, remove wiper arms, then remove plastic scuttle. You can access them from behind as they are mounted in the scuttle. There is a wiring connector (if the nozzles are heated) and a hose junction you can disconnect to remove entirely from the car which will make it easier for you to work on the nozzles. If you've gone that far I suggest you also remove lower scuttle (just over the engine bay) and the wiper mechanism and check the wiper spindles are not starting to seize as it will be a lot simpler to strip and lubricate than before it starts to show signs of seizing (not performing full wipes).

@gregers I have a vague recollection that disconnecting the battery for a few minutes might make it reset. Make sure you have your radio code though. I suspect you may have had it disconnected to change the tailgate loom though.

Do you mean this

The MKI/II Galaxy didn't have a repeater on the wing mirror, it was just on the Alhambra or Sharan - I can't remember which, and I don't know if it was on them all.

As above I believe they use the same oil they put in the system to lubricate the compressor. There is also a special tool to release the connection, probably only one end looking at the pictures. If I'm correct one of your junctions is under the drivers headlight, in the same place where I had mine repaired (the small pipe next to it though). If this is the one you can see the junction in this thread.

On the MKII disks there is only one reservoir for both brake and clutch. Not sure about the petrol models though.

The op has a 2014 which makes it a MK3 even though this is in the MK1/2 section. If your jack is for a MK1/2 I would be surprised if it is suitable for a MK3.

Just to be clear (mainly because I am not sure if any MKII had manual controls) does it have:- (i) Climate Control - All heating, ventilation and air-conditioning is controlled by LCD control panel at bottom of dash just above ashtray. (ii) Manual air conditioning - Not familiar with this but I think it has three rotary controls for temperature, air flow and fan speed and a switch to turn air-con on and off

Check the wiring to your valve first. It's in front of the drivers wheelarch liner under the bumper cover. The pressure switch is on the vertical pipe to the left of the top horn in this picture. It's not unknown for the wiring to fail or the switch to break.

As BrianH implies. Filling cooling system needs to be done slowly as prone to airlocks. If the cooling system was filled too quickly after pump change it may have an airlock. With cold engine. (i) Jack up front of car and support on axle stands. It seems to help prevent airlocks when refilling . (ii) Drain coolant - catch and re-use if you can/wish. Measure how much you got out (iii) Refill slowly, measuring how much goes back in. If you put back in more than you got out it had an airlock and hopefully all shoud be OK. Have you checked that water is returning to the expansion tank I don't believe you have said yet. With cold engine take off lid of expansion tank. Start engine and check water is running back into expansion tank via little hose that feeds into the top of it. I understand this has a one way valve in it that can get blocked.

MKI TDI's were either 90 BHP (67kW) or 110 BHP (82kW). If you put your VIN number into the etis site linked in post 3 doesn't it give the power under engine? It does for mine. The engine code is also listed under Variant on my UK Registration certificate (ASZ1 in my case)

It says 1.9TDI Zetec on his profile.

It should be on a paper label on the timing belt cover if it's a MKII. Do you know what power output it is?

Glad I could help

The following applies to the Mark I/II which is probably where most oh the horror stories come from. This was built by VW. The Mark III (which you have) is a totally different beast (which I am unfamiliar with!). The jack supplied with the car fits round the weld on the bottom of the seam. The problems happen when a trolley jack is used on the same point as this crushes the seam. Also if the correct spacers aren't fitted to a two or four point hydraulic lift (usually only at garages) the arms catch on the seam and do the same. Trolley Jack/axle stands/hydraulic lifts shouldn't be used on the sills only on the designated lifting points. None of the lifting methods should be on the vertical welded seam. Jacking points for car and trolley jacks are in manual/Haynes/TIS.

Sorry my TIS disc just works that's where I quoted the procedure from. It's running on a Windows 98 laptop using virtual clone disc using the ISO as it doesn't have a CD ROM.

I did get all the brake fluid replaced and bled through and asked them to bleed the clutch at the same time as it shares the same reservoir, but they didn't do that as it's awkward (which is why I asked them to do it in the first place!!). If I recall I looked at the TIS procedure and that involved (stands to be corrected) pushing clean fluid back through from the bleed screw into the reservoir.....or maybe I dreamt that? Nope just checked:- (i) Using a suitable syringe remove brake fluid from the brake fluid resrervoir until the brake fluid is at the MIN mark. (ii) Pump approximately 80ml of brake fluid into the clutch system via the clutch slave cylinder bleed nipple.

When mine was completely empty before I had it repaired I don't recall it ever flashing. Mine was returned twice as tested, refilled and working, and it did for maybe an hour..... When eventually fixed it was pressure tested with dry nitrogen for a good 30 minutes and vacuumed down and left for a good 30min to check it wasn't leaking before being refilled. When it was first pressure tested we could hear the hissing from the common failure point under the drivers headlight so we knew where to fix it. If you read this thread it has more details, though I started it on a completely different subject it but it does mention quite a bit about my problems with the air con.

C7 Pin 7 is fed from F100 a 3A fuse in the Battery Junction Box. The bottom purple fuse here. It should be a continuous Red/Black wire to the plug on there too

I replaced mine because I had a vibration. on passenger front, which has now come back. The Intermediate shaft is in two parts and the splines that join them together wear, as they don't seem to have had any grease applied to them when originally manufactured! Wear is evident by a clunk when going off and on power as the engine shifts from accelerating the car to slowing it down. Also "red dust" (rust powder) around the intermediate shaft. The Motomax intermediate shaft has much longer spline engagement, and if you fit it yourself you can make sure there is plenty of grease applied! More details here If you haven't got any issues I'd leave alone. If it's only been gently driven then and had regular maintenance then there's no reason it shouldn't be OK.

I have an unused one in the garage as I expected to do the drivers side too but never got round to it. The intermediate drive shaft needs replacing now so I'll probably stump up for the Motomax shaft and get better quality drive shafts for both sides and do them all at the same time. My gearbox requires to adopt a more relaxed driving style as if you try to rush the change it gets very noisy as it tends to baulk, particularly first to second. I understand intermediate shaft replacement has been known to improve gerachange too, so here's hoping....

Good luck

C7 Pin 8 shows as white and is the wire that feeds the Heated Rear Window and door mirror heaters I believe it should go live when the heated rear window switch goes live it is fed from F21 (20A) in the CJB via the K1 Rear window heater relay (also in the CJB) you should hear it click when you press the switch. It may need the engine running before it works though as I would hope the high current systems (front/rear screens) are disabled when it's off to aid starting. It also switches K251 the heated mirrors relay (if fitted) also in the CJB. I suspect both of these are on the two lower levels of the CJB.

Passenger footwell joint link

The wiring diagram uses "C" numbers for the indexes on connectors where did you get P3 from? In your first post you mention connector P3 pin 8 has the white wire. Looking at the CJB is the connector on the layer immediately under the cover with all the fuses on it. If so can you describe where it is located, ie bottom right, to right of fuse puller For all the connectors on this layer I have C6 Fuse Puller C2 C7 C5 C4 C1 C3