SilverBeast

Reply, no just the pair. See here

First check your battery junction box isn't overheating. Is under the battery cover with the red lead from the battery going into it. The top lead on the right is from the alternator. Open the cover of the box and check there is no heat damage or melting. Search forum for details if unsure or it is damaged.

You can check it yourself is on the left hand side of the engine compartment as you look at it. Is attached to the back of the air filter housing and the connector sticks out of the side of it.

As he knows it's prone to wear he would have probably used armoured! He would have needed to drill more holes and get more flexi boots though to get the right number of conductors though!

Can you confirm that: (i) You were able to start the car and the glowplug light worked normally immediately prior to downloading your ECU map (ii) The car hasn't started since you downloaded the ecu map (iii) The failure of the glowplug light to illuminate coincided with (ii) and didn't happen before then. (Just checking that the bulb/led hasn't blown) What is the year, trim and engine spec (115, 130, 150) of your TDI? This will be useful for checking Fuse/Wiring info as I believe they vary quite a bit (mainly due to engine and build year variation rather than trim). I would check the following first:- (i) Inspect the OBD port to check it hasn't been damaged (not likely but it's easy, and I guess a short between some of the connections could prevent VCDS communicating and possibly the ECU/Immobiliser from operating) (ii) All the fuses in both the cabin and engine bay fuse boxes. Connecting/disconnecting the cable may have blown a fuse that was supplying power to ECU or Immobiliser. If you have a Ford TIS CD you can check which fuses supply the ECU/Immobiliser, if you provide vehicle details someone may be able to check this for you.

...and here with pictures

If you've done 160k in it and never replaced run on pump,or at least the pump brushes I would be very surprised if it was still working. They general consensus seems to be that they only seem to last about 80k

you sod,i really wanted them. :lol: IIRC you can safely use the front valve caps from a 1972 2CV or the rears from a 2008 mountain bike (March to September). You may wish to wait for confirmation from someone more knowledgeable though!

Well done. Nice easy fix too!

V6 is VW engine so VAG-COM should work for whole vehicle electrics, 2.0 and 2.3 are Ford so should work with Generic OBD reader for engine. Rest of electrics would be VAG-COM again

Me too

If it's a MKII, I believe the "lights" are surface mount LED's soldered directly to the PCB. It may be just a a dry joint on the LED. The dash isn't so much coded to the car but (if you replace it):- (i) You need one from the same trim - or you may have extra/missing indications on the dash (mainly to do with trip computer/sat nav) (ii) engine/gearbox combination ie 1.9TD six speed manual (or the speedo will be wrong) (iii) You should also correct the mileage, (I think you need VAG-TACHO and a VAG-TACH lead NOT VAG-COM).

Look here

I used this to try and fix a notchy and slightly obstructive change between 1st and 2nd, particularly when cold. It didn't make much difference and I still haven't got round to trying resetting the adjustment on the cables. Here's the before and after Gearbox Oil from when I changed mine at about 105k. Guess which is the before! (answer after picture) No surprises, the dark stuff which I seem to recall was a very dark brown.

Dead easy to do.See here I just did it with the special socket required to remove the drain/fill plugs. The oil bottles I got had a flexible spout on so I could get it into the fill hole without a problem.

Well done. Did you take any pictures? I'm sure they would be a great help to others if you want to post them here. Mirez here would probably be interested too if you have.

In the FAQ's here applies to both sides. Can also be caused by disconnected sunroof drain pipes in the headlining (if you have a sunroof!). If drains are blocked it is also worth detaching the rear of the front wheel arch liners as this is where they drain to, and clearing any crud out of there as the small drain hole at the front of the sill/rear of the wheelarch can get blocked too. This can cause corrosion and a leak into the footwell in extreme cases.

......or scrapped........or written off :42:

The immobiliser light on the MKII's (diesels anyway) is in the drivers door where the lock button used to be on "olds" cars like Cortinas!

(i) Assuming the glow plug light was there before you started having problems, did you notice if it coincided with when the problems started? (ii) Did the non-starting coincide with changing the timing belt? (iii) If so did you disconnect the battery when you changed the timing belt? Have you checked you have reconnected all the wires back to the battery? There are some thinner wires connected to the terminals, including at two brown) grounds (on my MKII at least). I'm guessing one of these may ground the ECU. It sounds like there may be no power to the ECU I assume you have seen this thread. Might be worth checking all the fuses.

I'd try adjusting the cables before anything else as it's free! Instructions here I don't think you need to take the gear knob and gaitor off. I looked at doing it, but didn't in the end. I just lifted the base of the gaitor out of the console and there was enough access to fit a drill in the locking hole without removing anything else.

Does the glow plug light come on briefly when you first switch on the ignition, then go out? It would also help if you give more details of the vehicle, I assume it's a diesel. Is it a MKI or MKII? Galaxy, Sharan or Alhambra? What year? Which engine output? Not all relevant for this issue but if you add them to your signature it's obvious all the time without having to look.

A 2009 will be a MK 3. The latest MK 2 (Galaxy's) were 2006.

Why do you think it's faulty?

It sounds like an issue MKII's can have with wiring and/or the lock mechansim itself, but as a MKIII is a completely different beast (Ford design and build rather than VW) I can't really help. Only option may be to get the interior door trim off, which may be difficult (or impossible without damage) without being able to open the door.